Types of Disciplines and respective bikes explanation for noob

[Uni]

I was doing some bedtime reading - looking at the various bikes from the various brands, and the seem to be listed by type of riding you're going to do. which makes sense.

 

So in order to educate myself before going to buy my bike - what is the main difference

between the different disciplines?

 

Trek bikes for example are broken up into cross country; sport, single track trail, technical trail and gravity.

 

i take it gravity is downhills stuff requiring balls of steel which i won't bother looking at.

sport is the cheapest - so that is your entry level stuff - what's the difference - cheaper components because they're less hardy because they don't need to be?

 

what for example would a cross country bike need to do better than a single track trail bike?

people talk about AM bikes - which is not about riding in the morning - explain in the jargon in simple non jargon if possible.

 

tx.

u

[olram_df]

This will help maybe:

 

http://www.ibikeride.com/beginners-mtb/1505-the-different-mountain-biking-disciplines-and-bikes-explained

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Okay... I'll attempt to explain it...

 

Sport category: *** componentry, always hardtails (Mongoose used to make some full sussers in this sector) and not built to withstand much punishment thanks to the components they are specced with. Generally 80 / 100mm travel forks, and built like Sherman tanks due to the (very) wide spectrum of riders that will no doubt use them. One step above Game Specials.

 

XC (Hardtail) - generally 80 / 100mm travel machines, 29er / 26er / 27.5er. Built with steep head angles and built lighter than the Sport brothers. Built to go all day, and race on dirt roads. Not really built around technical singletrack, or built to be punished.

 

XC (dual Sus) - as above, except dual suspension

 

Marathon - As above

 

Trail bikes - generally 110 - 140mm suspension. Built for long days in the saddle, slightly heavier than XC cousins. Slacker head angles to enable better handling. Wider bars. Built more around comfort and technical trail, and reinforced in order to handle the extra punishment. Also across all 3 wheel sizes

 

All Mountain (AM) - Generally 140 - 170mm suspension. Built strong, for extensively technical trails, drops jumps etc and yet still able to be pedalled up to the top again. The true all rounder. More 29ers showing up in the lower end of the travel range, but dominated by 26ers. Slack head angles and lower BB heights in order to facilitate handling and extra punishment. 650b is finding most traction in this sector. Can also have AM hardtails, but these are rare.

 

Freeride - 160-180mm, full suspension, VERY slack head angle and generally not pedalled up to the top of the hill. Strictly 26" wheels. Built STRONG, to ride everything.

 

Downhill - 200mm plus travel front and rear. Extremely slack head angle to improve stability at speed and also enable the travel amount.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

One more - Dirt Jump / slopestyle. Hardtail or full suspension, 80 - 100mm max travel and coupled with a slack head angle. Made strong, yet small. Play bike of note - what you generally see on the Red Bull Slopestyle events & 4 cross competitions.

[Vetseun]

Okay... I'll attempt to explain it...

 

Sport category: *** componentry, always hardtails (Mongoose used to make some full sussers in this sector) and not built to withstand much punishment thanks to the components they are specced with. Generally 80 / 100mm travel forks, and built like Sherman tanks due to the (very) wide spectrum of riders that will no doubt use them. One step above Game Specials.

 

XC (Hardtail) - generally 80 / 100mm travel machines, 29er / 26er / 27.5er. Built with steep head angles and built lighter than the Sport brothers. Built to go all day, and race on dirt roads. Not really built around technical singletrack, or built to be punished.

 

XC (dual Sus) - as above, except dual suspension

 

Marathon - As above

 

Trail bikes - generally 110 - 140mm suspension. Built for long days in the saddle, slightly heavier than XC cousins. Slacker head angles to enable better handling. Wider bars. Built more around comfort and technical trail, and reinforced in order to handle the extra punishment. Also across all 3 wheel sizes

 

All Mountain (AM) - Generally 140 - 170mm suspension. Built strong, for extensively technical trails, drops jumps etc and yet still able to be pedalled up to the top again. The true all rounder. More 29ers showing up in the lower end of the travel range, but dominated by 26ers. Slack head angles and lower BB heights in order to facilitate handling and extra punishment. 650b is finding most traction in this sector. Can also have AM hardtails, but these are rare.

 

Freeride - 160-180mm, full suspension, VERY slack head angle and generally not pedalled up to the top of the hill. Strictly 26" wheels. Built STRONG, to ride everything.

 

Downhill - 200mm plus travel front and rear. Extremely slack head angle to improve stability at speed and also enable the travel amount.

you know your shite Armpies.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

you know your shite Armpies.

 

LOL. I try... Also I ingest information like a frikkin sponge on acid. Damn annoying at times, and I think it goes a long way to explain my sense of humour...

[Brett]

when you've been biking since day 1, you never think about these things; you just know! So when someone asks I never know what to say. lol

[Uni]

when you've been biking since day 1, you never think about these things; you just know! So when someone asks I never know what to say. lol

 

true, when something is second nature to you it's pretty hard to explain.

 

@cpt - thanks some terminology in there that's a tad foreign " generally 80 / 100mm travel machines" - don't know what that means - but I've learned my lesson re. cheap bikes - not about to blow 2 mortgage payments on a bike, but maybe one is okay. I don't expect to be upgrading all that often so rather do an initial investment.

 

@olram_df - thanks for the link - easy to understand.

 

at least I'll be armed with more knowledge than simply going according to price range. I'm hoping my LBS will be able to explain, and let me try the difference in crank lengths - what difference that makes. :-)

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

 

 

true, when something is second nature to you it's pretty hard to explain.

 

@cpt - thanks some terminology in there that's a tad foreign " generally 80 / 100mm travel machines" - don't know what that means - but I've learned my lesson re. cheap bikes - not about to blow 2 mortgage payments on a bike, but maybe one is okay. I don't expect to be upgrading all that often so rather do an initial investment.

 

@olram_df - thanks for the link - easy to understand.

 

at least I'll be armed with more knowledge than simply going according to price range. I'm hoping my LBS will be able to explain, and let me try the difference in crank lengths - what difference that makes. :-)

 

80 - 100mm travel refers to the amount of suspension travel they have. The more travel, the burlier the bike, generally.

[Uni]

80 - 100mm travel refers to the amount of suspension travel they have. The more travel, the burlier the bike, generally.

 

ah sweet.

Edited July 17, 2013 by Uni

[droo]

Snip snip...

 

I've learned my lesson re. cheap bikes - not about to blow 2 mortgage payments on a bike, but maybe one is okay. I don't expect to be upgrading all that often so rather do an initial investment.

 

 

That old chestnut, "Buy cheap, buy twice" is all you need to know in this context. Speak to a few folk at a few reputable shops, there are a number that will try to offload a slow mover on an unsuspecting noob. A bit of time doing some homework can teach you to spot the unscrupulous ones.

[Uni]

That old chestnut, "Buy cheap, buy twice" is all you need to know in this context. Speak to a few folk at a few reputable shops, there are a number that will try to offload a slow mover on an unsuspecting noob. A bit of time doing some homework can teach you to spot the unscrupulous ones.

 

when i decided I wanted to try this cycling thing, the bike I currently have was given to me to see if I would actually stick it out - so I"m glad no more money was spent on it. But now that i'm 100% sure that I want to keep at this, and I'm riding at least once a week - I want to be more comfortable and none of the back pain etc.

 

I think i'll be visiting my LBS sooner than later :-) and I do trust them (they're hubbers so they should be alright)

[droo]

when i decided I wanted to try this cycling thing, the bike I currently have was given to me to see if I would actually stick it out - so I"m glad no more money was spent on it. But now that i'm 100% sure that I want to keep at this, and I'm riding at least once a week - I want to be more comfortable and none of the back pain etc.

 

I think i'll be visiting my LBS sooner than later :-) and I do trust them (they're hubbers so they should be alright)

 

The bug has bitten. Step away from the credit card.

[DR ◣◢]

Everybody should be on a trail bike in my opinion. Relaxes geometry and very comfortable to ride. Can handle the odd race and will be happy on a coffee ride.

 

If you have a desire to race then look at the more XC race bikes etc.

[Butterbean]

Don't forget your bike fit for a far better riding experience with the new bike!

[Wayne Potgieter]

my bike is red.....