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Posted

My guess would be cos the Saint is designed as single speed crank - the XTR in single mode is a "fix".

 

That does sound like a valid reason.

 

I just thought that amoung the weigh watchers, an XTR "fix" would trump a Saint.

 

Even Graves does it on his enduro bike. (He only ran Saint at PMB because it was DH and he wanted the extra strength/stiffness)

 

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/binary/e0e3/s-jared-graves.JPG

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Posted

That does sound like a valid reason.

 

I just thought that amoung the weigh watchers, an XTR "fix" would trump a Saint.

 

Even Graves does it on his enduro bike. (He only ran Saint at PMB because it was DH and he wanted the extra strength/stiffness)

 

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/binary/e0e3/s-jared-graves.JPG

That does sound like a valid reason.

 

I just thought that amoung the weigh watchers, an XTR "fix" would trump a Saint.

 

Even Graves does it on his enduro bike. (He only ran Saint at PMB because it was DH and he wanted the extra strength/stiffness)

 

Maybe Shimano forced them? Saint would look much neater - "fixed" XTR would look a bit *** for the cameras...there would be a riot on bikerumor/bikeradar and thehub ;-)

Guest Omega Man
Posted (edited)

Maybe Shimano forced them? Saint would look much neater - "fixed" XTR would look a bit *** for the cameras...there would be a riot on bikerumor/bikeradar and thehub ;-)

Haha. Maybe there is a legit reason tho like the okes are strong and the extra stiffness of the saint is required? Plus Saint looks sexy.

 

Edit. Ok XTR looks ridiculously good too.

Edited by Omega Man
Posted

I managed to throw the chain off my RF N/W ring running the clutch off and no guide. Clutch on its been bomb proof.

 

Anyone have any ideas on chain length - I havent shortened mine. Would it help make the chain even more secure?

 

 

Okay - fully depress the back suspension (remove all air from the shock and depress the bike fully) and then put the chain over the biggest gear both sides (just at the back for you)

 

Then - just a 2 link overlap, with the cage at max forward extension. This will ensure that no matter what position your rear suspension is at, the chain will have enough room...

Posted

 

 

Okay - fully depress the back suspension (remove all air from the shock and depress the bike fully) and then put the chain over the biggest gear both sides (just at the back for you)

 

Then - just a 2 link overlap, with the cage at max forward extension. This will ensure that no matter what position your rear suspension is at, the chain will have enough room...

 

When you say 2 links, do you mean 2 complete links (i.e. inner and outer) or one inner and one outer?

Posted

Got to love these people who go for the new technology and systems and have no idea how to set it up to work properly :ph34r:

 

Probably the biggest factor to ensuring no dropping and smooth gears is correct chain length.

Posted (edited)

Trying find the guide but the XX1 guide shows 2 full links

http://cdn.sram.com/..._and_chains.pdf

 

Hmmm. I was sure mine said one of each link (2 links)

 

I could be wrong, but I fitted it more than a week ago and the guide is in CT (I'm 1800km away in Durbs at the moment)

 

EDIT: Well, thinking back now, I didn't remove any links as at max suspension travel it was already 2 of those links that would overlap as a max...

Edited by cpt armpies mayhem
Posted (edited)

 

Nope, that sounds like the sensible approach. The shifting on my SLX rear derailleur is not as snappy with clutch on which is the only reason I like running it clutch off.

 

Adjust the clutch on the RD to just before the point where taking the biggest drop or bump you ride creates chainslap. The stock clutch adjustment does making shifting a bit of a pain but you can dial it off a fair bit and then it's peachy shifting and still no chainslap. Google for instructions on clutch adjustment for your RD

Edited by Skylark
Guest Omega Man
Posted

Got to love these people who go for the new technology and systems and have no idea how to set it up to work properly :ph34r:

 

Probably the biggest factor to ensuring no dropping and smooth gears is correct chain length.

Haha. 2 totally unconnected things.

 

I buy new things cos they are shiny. And I freely admit to being the worst bike mechanic alive.

Posted

 

 

Nope, that sounds like the sensible approach. The shifting on my SLX rear derailleur is not as snappy with clutch on which is the only reason I like running it clutch off.

 

Okay that makes sense, the sram x9 clutch doesnt have an off switch so I haven't noticed any difference in shifting performance.

Thanks for the info-that was really bugging me.

Posted

 

 

Okay that makes sense, the sram x9 clutch doesnt have an off switch so I haven't noticed any difference in shifting performance.

Thanks for the info-that was really bugging me.

 

SRAM didn't figure why anyone would want to switch it off. To remove the wheel you just employ the locking pin and hey presto.

Posted (edited)

SRAM didn't figure why anyone would want to switch it off. To remove the wheel you just employ the locking pin and hey presto.

 

Until the bushing on the SRAM starts getting sticky after time, then you'll wish you could release the tension just a bit.

 

Once this starts the initial effort to overcome the friction every time you shift or the suspension moves is very noticeable.

Edited by Showtime

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