Which Lube Do You Buy....

[cruiser]

Purple extreme.

[Tumbleweed]

Durex

 

I know (of) a women who reacted rather badly to the warming version…

 

[arendoog]

Assegaai!!http://www.mantality.co.za/images/detailed_images/Assegai-lube.jpg

Edited February 3, 2014 by Blitzer

[madmarc]

Shot MadMarc,

 

I think this will be my next move...

 

Can you recommend a good weight of engine oil to start off with?

 

I just use 20W30 and got chainsaw oil from Builders. its also known as bar oil and can be found in the lawnmower/weedeater section. After playing around I mix 20% chainsaw oil and 80% engine oil.

 

If the oil is too thin it will coat your wheel, if its too thick it will throw spiderwebs everywhere.

 

Either way be sure not to lube too much oil on your chain, we all guilty of putting on too much oil and a chain does not need that much oil to work properly. With over oiling you will find a build up on your RD pulleys and between your gears on the rear cluster as well as on the inside of your chain rings.

 

I use one of these to dry brush the chain and scrape off all the crud mentioned above before I re-lube

 

[Shepherd]

I just use 20W30 and got chainsaw oil from Builders. its also known as bar oil and can be found in the lawnmower/weedeater section. After playing around I mix 20% chainsaw oil and 80% engine oil.

 

If the oil is too thin it will coat your wheel, if its too thick it will throw spiderwebs everywhere.

 

Either way be sure not to lube too much oil on your chain, we all guilty of putting on too much oil and a chain does not need that much oil to work properly. With over oiling you will find a build up on your RD pulleys and between your gears on the rear cluster as well as on the inside of your chain rings.

 

I use one of these to dry brush the chain and scrape off all the crud mentioned above before I re-lube

 

 

Awsome, thanks Marc...

[arendoog]

Using this now .After 50km of Highveld dust the chain wasn,t even dusty or brown and still running perfect .Expensive ,but worth it http://media.muc-off.com/851-large_default/c3-dry-ceramic-lube.jpg

[Tree Hubber]

Is KY a lube...

[porqui]

Just to be different and for a change I will be using graphite powder as a test run which Will be the the Ultimate Dry lube as you won't have to apply it the night before and I suspect that it might last longer than a whole ride. Can be bought in a handy application canister from any lock shop. Also guaranteed to silence any and every Avid disk brake.

[Vetseun]

Squirt and only squirt on my bikes

Edited August 2, 2014 by Vetseun

[Breezer]

Evening before a ride. White lighting first and alow to dry. Second layer squirt. Work very good in wet and dry. My mtb did 6300km on the same chain an cluster and still going strong. Including today's very muddy burger.

[johannrissik]

Just to be different and for a change I will be using graphite powder as a test run which Will be the the Ultimate Dry lube as you won't have to apply it the night before and I suspect that it might last longer than a whole ride. Can be bought in a handy application canister from any lock shop. Also guaranteed to silence any and every Avid disk brake.

Graphite works on locks, not too sure about chains. I am not ashamed to admit that I have even done the hot oil/wax bath trick. (OK, JB's not listening anyway Paraffin wax / bees wax / graphite powder / cutter bar oil, heated up in an old tin . Regular like clockwork, every Sunday afternoon I removed the chain and popped it into the hot oil bath. Then hung it up to dry. (I was rotating three chains at the time while training for the Dash) Needless to say the chains were spotless and everything was silky smooth. Not sure which of the components did the trick, but my guess is it was the rigorous cleaning the chains got in the hot oil

[Ramrod]

 

Graphite works on locks, not too sure about chains. I am not ashamed to admit that I have even done the hot oil/wax bath trick. (OK, JB's not listening anyway Paraffin wax / bees wax / graphite powder / cutter bar oil, heated up in an old tin . Regular like clockwork, every Sunday afternoon I removed the chain and popped it into the hot oil bath. Then hung it up to dry. (I was rotating three chains at the time while training for the Dash) Needless to say the chains were spotless and everything was silky smooth. Not sure which of the components did the trick, but my guess is it was the rigorous cleaning the chains got in the hot oil

when you talk about hot oil are you heating the oil?

[Soufflé]

Hot bath in 80% paraffin wax & 20% bees wax. Best lubricated and cleanest chain in town.

[Dicky DQ]

don't know much, but all I know is if it is wet and muddy and your drive train is a bit worn , like Die Burger and mine yesterday, it makes no difference what lube, just make sure you stop and lube with anything to prevent chain suck and broken chains.

 

OK you could go 1 x 10/11, but I do not think enough of these users have ridden in wet and muddy conditions for long enough to see the impact.

[Gideondv]

don't know much, but all I know is if it is wet and muddy and your drive train is a bit worn , like Die Burger and mine yesterday, it makes no difference what lube, just make sure you stop and lube with anything to prevent chain suck and broken chains.

 

OK you could go 1 x 10/11, but I do not think enough of these users have ridden in wet and muddy conditions for long enough to see the impact.

I had fantastic results with smooth lube on my chain at the burger yesterday. Shifting was crisp & quick with no chainsuck.

[johannrissik]

when you talk about hot oil are you heating the oil?

 

Yip, all the ingredients in an old tin and then gently heated over a gas flame (not a good idea due to risk of fire, better to use electric stove) I've seen videos of people using old chip fryers to heat the oil)

 

My mix was carefully researched and then modified by what I had on hand and also some poetic license.

 

Mostly paraffin wax (about 80%, some beeswax (about 20%), a teaspoon or so of graphite powder and then some cutter bar oil for the stickiness.

 

Once a week, chain off, wipe down, clean well and lower into the hot (very liquid, but not bubbling) mixture. Stir the chain around with a piece of wire for a while. The theory is that the heated wax mixture displaces all the gunk from the annular space around the roller (where the lube is actually needed) You then hang the chain up to cool down and re-fit. Interesting was the amount of muck that collected at the bottom of the hot wax tin.

 

Nice in theory, but wax is not an ideal lube in this situation as it gets squeezed out of the pin annulus and then doesn't creep back as an oil would.

 

My chains have never been better, but I honestly feel that it was because of the very thorough weekly cleaning they were getting.

 

I am now using the Rohloff oil and sometimes Chain-L No.5 and also a homemade mix. At the end of the day it's about cleaning and lubing (with oil, not wax).