Is motorcycling allowed?

[Tromp]

Guys , note and remember the 1000 Bikes Meeting in Germiston on 2/ 3 July . For those so inclined , remember your Old Brown as well.

[Andymann]

Which is scary !!!

I've given up comparing - our sport used to be reasonable - WTB tyres were R150 a few years back, and if you really wanted to splash out, GEAX Saguaro's were probably around R300 each.

The last few tyres I have replaced have been good old Crossmarks.  I don't care if they don't grip in the wet.  My wallet likes them!

[Rich Stan]

Does anyone have experience with Racetec exhaust? Seem to be locally made. Looking for a bit more power and sound out of 2007 Yamaha R6, so after at least an end and mid pipe and can't believe the price of the big name exhaust

[Andymann]

Have a look and see if there are not any old-stock GYTR slip-ons available for your bike from a Yamaha dealer - we brought a few in and I know we didn't sell many.  They slip right on, look the business and sound great.  Just remember you will lose the exup valve when you change the silencer, so you are going to experience a bit of a bottom-end loss.

 

I wouldn't change anything else - the lambda sensor is in the silencer box and if you don't have that connected your mixture goes haywire.

 

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/snT1JKGmHQk/hqdefault.jpg

[BSG]

Which is scary !!!

Ridiculously scary, I've put 2 x Pirellis on my wife's car for R1500. Cycling is getting silly expensive.

[Rich Stan]

Thanks Andymann,

 

Will follow up with the local dealership and see if they have of the GYTR slip ons left.

 

I use the bike mainly on the track so not too worried about loss of bottom end. Interested about the lambda sensor being lost in the silencer box, what do guys running full systems do to correct the fueling? Heard the the ECU over writes Power Commander type units so that isn't an option, or was that bad advice?

[Duane_Bosch]

Have a look and see if there are not any old-stock GYTR slip-ons available for your bike from a Yamaha dealer - we brought a few in and I know we didn't sell many.  They slip right on, look the business and sound great.  Just remember you will lose the exup valve when you change the silencer, so you are going to experience a bit of a bottom-end loss.

 

I wouldn't change anything else - the lambda sensor is in the silencer box and if you don't have that connected your mixture goes haywire.

 

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/snT1JKGmHQk/hqdefault.jpg

Oooh those are hot.

 

I'm looking to go the other way believe it or not. I'm looking for an OEM pipe for my CBR. The aftermarket one on there is just too loud.

[Guest notmyname]

What say the Gurus about KTM 690 adventure/enduro? I think I'm in the market. If not, what else in the same category? Really not so keen on BMW.

Edited June 26, 2016 by Bronze green boy

[nathrix]

Guys , note and remember the 1000 Bikes Meeting in Germiston on 2/ 3 July . For those so inclined , remember your Old Brown as well.

Can't wait!

[Andymann]

Well after being a little disappointed that the bike in the photos didn't look like the bike I had committed to buying (and bought), I set about this weekend having a good look to see if I had been too hasty....

 

The guy wasn't kidding - every single wire, nut and bolt was individually marked, so for an OCD bloke like me it was brilliant. He had even marked LHS and RHS bolts....I connected the new battery and kicked it over - was relieved to see a nice fat blue spark. Things were looking promising! I poured some 2T down the plug hole in anticipation that I would start it soon.

 

He mentioned that the carb was "broken" and that not to worry he had a spare, but when I looked at the condition of the spare (off an AG175 I subsequently found out) I dismantled the "broken" carb and found a blocked pilot jet and a float level way out so I reckoned that must of been the problem.

 

So after removing the now famous golf-ball (a Top Flite I might add), checking that there was no crap which had fallen down the inlet, I poured some oil down the plug hole and kicked it over. All sounded good so I added coolant, mixed some 2T with the petrol and gave it a few kicks. I wish I could say it was immediate, but close enough, and about 10 or 15 kicks later it started....

 

Two things were apparent though - while the engine itself sounded really good, on idle there was a really nasty clatter coming from behind the water and oil pump. And it also felt very very rough. On all my bikes I replace the black OEM oil 2T oil line with a transparent one so that I can see the oil moving in the pipe, and in this case, I could see the oil wasn't coming through. Not good.

 

It wasn't getting any better so I figured off with the clutch cover. Was going to do that anyway to set the clutch so it wasn't a major issue.

 

What I found was quite interesting. At some stage someone must have replaced the crank seals and not tightened the primary drive nut. The primary drive gear had come loose, sheared the key, and both the primary drive gear and idler gear which drives the balance shaft were spinning away freely. The nut and key was scrap, and the thread on the end of the crank wasn't great, but the gears were still fine.

 

Into my box of DT200 spares, and lo and behold the nut, key and possibly crank looked identical. So I pillaged the nut and key off my scrap DT crank, applied loads of Loctite to the gear and nut and tightened as much as I dared (about 50N.m, recommended is 75N.m). Realigned the balance shaft, set the clutch, and put it all back together.

 

This time second kick and I think I have rescued a freshly rebuilt DT125 and found the reason why the guy sold it Cheesy

 

I have no idea how long the Loctite will last, or how long the motor might have run without the oil and water pump working but I will keep and eye on it, and if it comes loose again, well I have to split the motor to fix the thread on the crank, so I don't really have anything to lose!

 

So now it's new tyres, a few grommets, levers, a new ignition, and one or two other odds and ends, and I reckon I will have a brilliant little bike.

 

I reckon it's not going to cost more than another R3k to get it looking nice - they are not too collectable, but seeing as there are people out there who are paying upwards of R20K for a good RZ or DT50, and a 125 is at least powerful enough to use regularly, who knows!

Ok, so opinions please - I've spent around R5k on the little DT so far.  Turns out fully restored to OEM spec LC's are only selling for around R15k, and I know from my 200 restoration that I am in for another R10k at least to get my bike up to that level and even then, they aren't really that collectable (yet).  But I also know that in the bikes current state, I would probably only get around R10k for it anyway, so selling it isn't really an option.  So I'm trending towards doing something different, but without chopping the thing to pieces - came across these pics - what do you think a YZ490 replica DT125 would look like.  Complete with numbers and sponsors stickers......

[travisza]

Can't wait!

My dads bike on the cover. Well not his, but the same one

[Wannabe]

Think it would definitely turn some heads, Andymann

[Wannabe]

Something like this?

 

 

 

 

[Andymann]

Something like this?

 

 

DT125LC.jpg

I think so - something different to the usual nut and bolt resto, but still nice enough to be desirable.

 

The biggest expense at this stage will be to find some alloy rims which I can have anodized gold.  The rest will be pretty easy to replicate.

[Skylark]

Gold anodized rims will look hot on a Dt, actually didn't the 200 come with gold rims, think mine had gold?

[Andymann]

Gold anodized rims will look hot on a Dt, actually didn't the 200 come with gold rims, think mine had gold?

The white and red ones did.  Also the TT600 I think.  Problem is the rear rim of the 125 is 1.85 x 18", and all the modern bikes are 19".

 

I can get normal 18" alloy, but they are again too wide.  Guess it's off to bike hospital!