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Posted
I am sure you have just helped the manufacturers out big time. Droo from good old RSA has just taught Sram that stickers in their shocks are a load of hogwash. Well done! Respect

 

The weight-pressure chart is a very rough indicator which is used for " Quick Setup" , ie for riders who aren't too worried about getting the most out of their suspension, and just want to get out and ride. It is also ideal for riders who do not understand how sag setup works.

 

Please see the Rockshox Fork Tuning Guide below, as found on the Sram website. In this document they describe two setup methods, including the "Sag Setup" process, same as what Droo advised.

 

https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2001-2012_dual_air_tuning_guide_gen.0000000004160_rev_a.pdf

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Posted (edited)

 

 

The weight-pressure chart is a very rough indicator which is used for " Quick Setup" , ie for riders who aren't too worried about getting the most out of their suspension, and just want to get out and ride. It is also ideal for riders who do not understand how sag setup works.

 

Please see the Rockshox Fork Tuning Guide below, as found on the Sram website. In this document they describe two setup methods, including the "Sag Setup" process, same as what Droo advised.

 

https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2001-2012_dual_air_tuning_guide_gen.0000000004160_rev_a.pdf

Got it. Thanks. If we look at the original post. Uni needed to know on a Saturday evening, how to setup her shock for her Sunday morning ride. The sticker suggestion for a quick fix made sense then. Telling somebody about test riding and testing sag on a saturday evening doest make sense. Edited by Vetseun
Posted (edited)

Got it. Thanks. If we look at the original post. Uni needed to know on a Saturday evening, how to setup her shock for her Sunday morning ride. The sticker suggestion for a quick fix made sense then. Telling somebody about test riding and testing sag on a saturday evening doest make sense.

 

It takes all of 2-3 mount/dismount and a just couple of pumps/releases to set a XC Forks to a 20% sag.

 

It's a 1/5th of the length of the stanchions, it's really not rocket science, you don't need a stupid frikken sticker.

 

You are being an a$$ about this.... going on and on and on...

 

We are trying to help the OP to do it the correct way, and all you are holding onto is a sticker.

Edited by TheV
Posted (edited)

 

 

It takes all of 2-3 mount/dismount and a just couple of pumps/releases to set a XC Forks to a 20% sag.

 

It's a 1/5th of the length of the stanchions, it's really not rocket science, you don't need a stupid frikken sticker.

 

You are being an a$$ about this.... going on and on and on...

 

We are trying to help the OP to do it the correct way, and all you are holding onto is a sticker.

Okay . You right . You dont need a stupid frikken sticker . Just tried to help a hubber that was in a fix. My bad Edited by Vetseun
Posted

It takes all of 2-3 mount/dismount and a just couple of pumps/releases to set a XC Forks to a 20% sag.

 

It's a 1/5th of the length of the stanchions, it's really not rocket science, you don't need a stupid frikken sticker.

 

You are being an a$$ about this.... going on and on and on...

 

We are trying to help the OP to do it the correct way, and all you are holding onto is a sticker.

 

I disagree, he gave what he thought was some helpful advice to someone who might not be as technically sound as others.

I still want to get behind the bottoming out.

Uni, also remember that when air suspension is set for your weight and someone heavier than yourself bounces on it, they will think it's very soft.

Just see that you have not pumped that fork too hard for your comfort .

Posted

I disagree, he gave what he thought was some helpful advice to someone who might not be as technically sound as others.

 

:stupid:

Posted

Sjoe thanks for the passionate responses guys but no need to get in a tiff, yeah I'm not technically savvy and as Vetseun mentioned, I just wanted to get out to ride without breaking my bike or myself.

 

I take all info thrown at me on the hub, some I use, some not but it gets stored away for future use - at the end of the day it all comes down to opinion and the one that resolves my problem at the time is right for me :)

 

@wyatt yeah definitely not just a difference in weight thing, and I agree if the shocks aren't touched in a service I'd also be a bit worried about what might have caused the pressure to drop so drastically over the few days. So far pressure has held since Saturday night so I'm hoping it was a once off thing.

 

 

Posted

For fox products, the shock or fork MUST be in the DECEND mode. this is most important. to set sag. as decend mode is air pressure only suspension. With RLC older fox set up, reduce low speed compression to lowest setting.

 

for a XC style ride with 80 - 100mm travel fork, consider 15% max on sag setting. longer travel maybe 20% sag. once you know your pressures, i right it ont the shock. so that i dont forget.

 

essential reading see below and also any other pinkbike tech tuesday

 

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The-Point-Rebound-Damping-2013.html

Posted

Suspension can be the most expensive component on a bike. Its perfect set up is essential to getting the full benefit out of a bike, keeping you safe and having an efficient pedaling stroke. ive spend days and perhaps months researching the best suspension setup. and im still not 100%. with good quality suspension a few adjustments on a setting can make huge differences. i check my pressures b4 every ride. and tyre presure is the first signal that affects suspension tuning. Ive paid huge amounts of money for a very good bike and suspension, it make sense to understand it and get the most out of it. the internet is full of really good information, pinkbike is a great starting point for info.

body weight plus psi is a shot into space. with FOX products ive found there tech manuals are a pretty good starting point but should be checked and adjusted to suit your riding. and Apple has the APP.

Posted (edited)

I just look at my stanchions after a normal ride with hills and drops etc to see the clean vs dusty line and you can determine if you need to go harder or softer from this. Watch for braking dive if you go too soft with the fork though. Its worth having a shock pump and taking it with you for a couple of rides to adjust pressures until you find your ideal setting.post-12678-0-46300100-1407733425_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mojoman
Posted

I am sure you have just helped the manufacturers out big time. Droo from good old RSA has just taught Sram that stickers in their shocks are a load of hogwash. Well done! Respect

 

Wasn't having a go at you mate, just giving info on how to get the most out of a fork.

 

There are a heap of factors that influence pressure settings on a fork - from fork construction and architecture (piston diameter, air spring volume, travel) to riding style (XC, when mostly seated, DH you're mostly standing, and AM/Trail where you're halfway between), rider position, frame geometry, weight distribution etc etc.

 

Those recommended pressures on RS forks are 10 - 15% too high for most riders - RS don't want you running the fork too soft and breaking things by bottoming hard - their biggest market is the USA, and they're among the most lawsuit-happy on the planet. Rather safe than sorry.

 

Also, as the sheriff pointed out, the OP's fork has an air assisted coil spring, so what works on a RS fork will be far too high for it.

 

The sag setup is the most accurate and reliable way of getting the pressure right, and shouldn't take you more than a few minutes. All you need is a ruler and a shock pump.

 

(If you want to make it even quicker, get someone to help you - pump the shock harder than you need to, climb on with the pump still attached, and slowly deflate until the required sag setting is reached. One minute maximum.)

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