Another creaking BB thread

[fanievb]

Right there is most likely your problem.

 

I have had to warranty no less than 5 Fox Forks in the last month. It is normally the stanchion interface with the crown or steerer. (It normally sounds like a high pitched click)

To test this take your front  wheel out and then holding both lower fork legs try to push them together, and listen for the creak. 

 

Otherwise try your derailleur hanger where it meets the frame.

 

If still no luck, try describe the "creak" ie: pitch, etc.

 

I do know your pain as I have been hunting for my creak for about 3 months and it kept getting worse.

Tried EVERYTHING apart from a new frame, and trust me when I say changing Rotor cranks and BB's on a Cervelo is not the easiest or fastest job.

 

Well I eventually found this on the inside of the crank arm.

 

20141028_164841 - Copy.jpg

 

tried the fork thing = no noise

 

suspect the rear hub

[Redlight]

Seems like this is my problem. Started with the pedals, creak still there.

Tightened the skewer as tight as possible and the noise is much better. Let's hope this is covered under the warranty

I had that issue. Noise comming from where the rear wheel spokes crosses each other. Put duct tape between them. Noise gone now

[Oufy MTB (Roadie)]

My BB creaking, rode through a puddle of water, stopped creaking. start creaking again, through water from my bottle on the right side by the BB, noise stopped.

 

So my BB is dry? I must say it was there a week ago, then quiet and then creaks again?

 

Luck says, when I take it to the LBS, it will be dead quiet

[DieselnDust]

probably water stuck in there and moving about. remove, regrease and press back in. 

[roodie]

no noise --not with a threaded BB 

[roodie]

I once had a creak on my bike which originated from the stem and handlebar interface.  The sound was only heard when I was standing and pedaling.  I removed, cleaned and added very little anti-seize compound (Spanjaard copper-slip) and the creak was gone.

 

Creaking sounds are sometimes translated through the frame making them sound that they come from a different place than the origin.

yes and it comes in stereo 

[droo]

My BB creaking, rode through a puddle of water, stopped creaking. start creaking again, through water from my bottle on the right side by the BB, noise stopped.

 

So my BB is dry? I must say it was there a week ago, then quiet and then creaks again?

 

Luck says, when I take it to the LBS, it will be dead quiet

 

Pressfit or threaded? And what crank?

[Oufy MTB (Roadie)]

Pressfit or threaded? And what crank?

Presfit and sram crank

[droo]

Presfit and sram crank

 

The best thing you can do for that is fit a WheelsMFG thread-together BB. It screws together inside the frame so it doesn't move, and will work even if your BB shell is slightly oversized from your current creaking. They're not cheap, but once it's in the bearings are replaceable so it's a once off investment.

 

Edit - this assumes you've cleaned and refitted your crank and made sure everything's properly torqued down.

Edited June 19, 2020 by droo

[DieselnDust]

The best thing you can do for that is fit a WheelsMFG thread-together BB. It screws together inside the frame so it doesn't move, and will work even if your BB shell is slightly oversized from your current creaking. They're not cheap, but once it's in the bearings are replaceable so it's a once off investment.

 

Edit - this assumes you've cleaned and refitted your crank and made sure everything's properly torqued down.

 

 

 

Also consider the Token Ninja series Threaded (thread together BB's) The bearings are made of cheese but the structural concept is excellent.

 

Oufie, is the crank a SRAM BB30/DUB or a <spits> GXP?

Edited June 19, 2020 by DieselnDust

[alleyne]

The best thing you can do for that is fit a WheelsMFG thread-together BB. It screws together inside the frame so it doesn't move, and will work even if your BB shell is slightly oversized from your current creaking. They're not cheap, but once it's in the bearings are replaceable so it's a once off investment.

 

Edit - this assumes you've cleaned and refitted your crank and made sure everything's properly torqued down.

 

I had a creak in my tarmac, after doing almost everything you did above, multiple bike shops and rebuilds I finally got a WheelsMFG BB, problem solved.

[Veebee]

yeah Wheels is the way to go. The token BB still uses some "plastic" so not sure how durable they will be long term.

 

Contact: Charles Keey charles@switchbacksports.co.za

 

https://switchbacksports.co.za/collections/wheels-mfg?tb-tg-standard=PF30

[DieselnDust]

yeah Wheels is the way to go. The token BB still uses some "plastic" so not sure how durable they will be long term.

 

Contact: Charles Keey charles@switchbacksports.co.za

 

https://switchbacksports.co.za/collections/wheels-mfg?tb-tg-standard=PF30

 

 

The plastic is just a bearing interface between the alloy threaded sleeves and the frame. Its designed to take out the galvanic corrosion that would occur with alloy cups into carbon frames. Mines lasted a year now.....in a Cannondale with its stupid BB83

Edited June 19, 2020 by DieselnDust

[Veebee]

The plastic is just a bearing interface between the alloy threaded sleeves and the frame. Its designed to take out the galvanic corrosion that would occur with alloy cups into carbon frames. Mines lasted a year now.....in a Cannondale with its stupid BB83

Lucky you, thats good.

I have not had a good run with Token products so have moved away from the brand.

[Ozzie NL]

Do what all sensible cyclists do.....buy a new bike

[DieselnDust]

Lucky you, thats good.

I have not had a good run with Token products so have moved away from the brand.

 

 

 

Ya the bearings are *&^%! I fitted SKF bearings in mine after a month. Its been superb since.

LOOK supplies the 785HuezRS and 795Blade RS with the token BB's. I think its the one good thing they make (especially once you've destroyed the cheap bearings they fit and replace with proper bearings).

The only catch is that the threaded cups require a 49mm 16 notch socket whereas WheelsMfg needs a 48.5mm 16 notch. The tools are not compatible. I had to buy two Park Tool BBT 27 tools to fit mine. Tools were more expensive than the darn BB!

Edited June 19, 2020 by DieselnDust