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Posted

I have tried 5w fork oil in brakes, it works but I didn't get a lot of feedback on the lever, brakes felt spongy and had less bite... Flushed the system, running Shimano fluid (which I can get at around R200 a liter if anyone wants) and the brakes are spot on again!

 

This was on M675 SLX FYI :)

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Posted

I just bled my XT's last week using LHM+, and my brakes feel, and operate just as good as they did with the shimano fluid. Although if I could have got my hands on shimano oil for R200/L i would def used that, but I'm pretty happy with the results using the LHM+

 

Check out this guide by epic bleed solutions, details perfectly the procedure:

 

http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resources/pdf/how-to-bleed-new-shimano-disc-brakes.pdf

 

You don't need their special syringe that they sell, an normal syringe screws into the bleed port perfectly.

Posted

If the bottle is opened and closed within 5 min it will only be able to absorb the moisture that is in the air inside the bottle, being in JHB and having no moisture in the air what is the difference is you use it again within a month or a year later, the bottle has not been opened between uses?

 

 

I use distilled water in my Magura HS33  :thumbup:

Feels and works way better than magura blood junk.

 

 

 

Once the seal under the cap is broken it is broken. reseating it does not make the bottle airtight. The contents of teh bottle expands and contracts with temperature and variances inair pressure. This allows for a pressure and temperature gradient that allows air to move into an exit the bottle bringing in moisture.

But suit yourself, do what you like as you are clearly far more knowledgable.

Posted (edited)

 

If the bottle is opened and closed within 5 min it will only be able to absorb the moisture that is in the air inside the bottle, being in JHB and having no moisture in the air what is the difference is you use it again within a month or a year later, the bottle has not been opened between uses?

 

 

I use distilled water in my Magura HS33  :thumbup:

Feels and works way better than magura blood junk.

 

 

 

Once the seal under the cap is broken it is broken. reseating it does not make the bottle airtight. The contents of teh bottle expands and contracts with temperature and variances inair pressure. This allows for a pressure and temperature gradient that allows air to move into an exit the bottle bringing in moisture.

But suit yourself, do what you like as you are clearly far more knowledgable.

 

A genuine question with out looking for a snooty answer...

 

What if you squeeze out all the air in the bottle before closing the cap?

Would that not reduce the the available air/moisture/brake fluid interaction?

Edited by Super_mil
Posted

 

 

 

Once the seal under the cap is broken it is broken. reseating it does not make the bottle airtight. The contents of teh bottle expands and contracts with temperature and variances inair pressure. This allows for a pressure and temperature gradient that allows air to move into an exit the bottle bringing in moisture.

But suit yourself, do what you like as you are clearly far more knowledgable.

 

 

 

If you are going to be such a smart ass you should comment in the correct place.

 

Yes and No

Some bottle are rubbish and do not seal even before "THE SEAL HAS BROKEN"

BUT, others that are made properly do actually seal AFTER.

ie; if you squeeze the bottle, expelling all the excess air and then close it and the bottle does not regain its original shape, I am confident to say that it is an airtight seal.

 

Next words of wisdumb!

Posted

What if you seal the bottle with masking tape after firmly closing the lid?

I've also been wondering about the whole DOT absorbs moisture after opening, granted the air that is in bottle may have a very marginal amount of moisture in it but I can't see enough water being absorbed into the fluid after the bottle is properly sealed to noticeably affect the fluid. More important is probably doing a proper bleed when the fluid is actually used.

 

Just to be safe I just buy a 200ml bottle of Castrol DOT fluid at the garage when I need to do a bleed, at R15 a pop lovely!

Posted

What if you seal the bottle with masking tape after firmly closing the lid?

I've also been wondering about the whole DOT absorbs moisture after opening, granted the air that is in bottle may have a very marginal amount of moisture in it but I can't see enough water being absorbed into the fluid after the bottle is properly sealed to noticeably affect the fluid. More important is probably doing a proper bleed when the fluid is actually used.

 

Just to be safe I just buy a 200ml bottle of Castrol DOT fluid at the garage when I need to do a bleed, at R15 a pop lovely!

I do the same WRT buying the smallest bottle I can, but you can get numerous bleeds out of one bottle so I tend to squeeze out all the excess air immediately after I've filled the two bleed syringes and then close tightly. Like Peach rudely states, the bottle does not bloat or fill with air after it has been reclosed, thus my question to GoLefty!!

 

I tend to dispose of the remainder of the fluid once I can no longer squeeze all the air out before closing the bottle. I know the R15 is insignificant, it's more a case of not wanting to waste unnecessarily. 

Posted

If you are going to be such a smart ass you should comment in the correct place.

 

Yes and No

Some bottle are rubbish and do not seal even before "THE SEAL HAS BROKEN"

BUT, others that are made properly do actually seal AFTER.

ie; if you squeeze the bottle, expelling all the excess air and then close it and the bottle does not regain its original shape, I am confident to say that it is an airtight seal.

 

Next words of wisdumb!

Bottles.

"Some bottles" is what you were aiming for.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Do not be fooled by Shimano mumbo jumbo.

 

Castrol LHM will work well. DOT fluid is an absolute no-no in mineral oil systems.

 

Castrol LHM is certified for Citroen suspension systems that has extreme loading. It is safe for your family to cruise 120km/h on the road.

 

Your brake system will not catastrophically fail using this oil. The key to success is finding mineral oil with the lowest cSt value.

 

If you want the ultimate mineral oil Phillips66 X/C 5606A aviation mineral oil. This is oil used in extreme conditions, used in ballistic missiles and military aircraft. If it is good enough for stealth fighters, do you think it is good enough for your Shimis? It is also rated ultra clean grade.

 

I believe there is a local importer of Phillips66 oils and it is even cheaper than Shimano. So tell me who is ripping us off completely.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Sorry for the necro.

 

 

Febi Bilstein Nr. 06162 also works perfect for Shimano.  Normally used in BMW power steering systems.

 

R125 per liter at your local Goldwagen store.

Posted

Do not be fooled by Shimano mumbo jumbo.

 

Castrol LHM will work well. DOT fluid is an absolute no-no in mineral oil systems.

 

Castrol LHM is certified for Citroen suspension systems that has extreme loading. It is safe for your family to cruise 120km/h on the road.

 

Your brake system will not catastrophically fail using this oil. The key to success is finding mineral oil with the lowest cSt value.

 

If you want the ultimate mineral oil Phillips66 X/C 5606A aviation mineral oil. This is oil used in extreme conditions, used in ballistic missiles and military aircraft. If it is good enough for stealth fighters, do you think it is good enough for your Shimis? It is also rated ultra clean grade.

 

I believe there is a local importer of Phillips66 oils and it is even cheaper than Shimano. So tell me who is ripping us off completely.

 

They also use LHM on the braking systems of heavy construction machinery which are equipped with disc brakes - So if LHM can stop a Bell dumper - it sure as hell can stop a bicycle.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Just to perk this thread up - had an emergency pap front brake (oldish Shimano Deore XT) and low fluid this afternoon so topped up and syringe bled with Castrol Automatic Transmax M as used in power steering top up after considering 3 in 1 oil and not finding any baby oil to hand (now I wonder where it went to?).  Brake has bite but will report on the longer term outcome.  :thumbdown:  :thumbup:

Posted

Just to perk this thread up - had an emergency pap front brake (oldish Shimano Deore XT) and low fluid this afternoon so topped up and syringe bled with Castrol Automatic Transmax M as used in power steering top up after considering 3 in 1 oil and not finding any baby oil to hand (now I wonder where it went to?).  Brake has bite but will report on the longer term outcome.  :thumbdown:  :thumbup:

In my line of work we make about 30 high and low pressure power steering pipes a week. Atf is a lot more corrisive than other mineral based oils. Might be a good idea to flush it out - just to be safe.

Posted

ATF has additives that would not be used in the Shimano or equivalent hydraulic/braking oils. Its viscosity is also much higher and it is formulated for lower operating temperatures than might occur at the hot end of a braking system. So its ok in an emergency and should not cause any seal damage in the short term but I suggest flush it through and replace with the pink stuff soon as you can.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks guys, Brakes worked and are working just fine but I will flush BUT where to get the pink stuff. Previously some kind shop owner decanted some from his stock for me - maybe the route to take or baby oil, or some of the earlier options mentioned here?

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