bertusras Posted May 30, 2017 Share this is the gold I need from the Hub this is what I am working with below, can extend the road cassette but no clutch so limited to front jump. What tyres you running? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk My bike has a Deore Long Cage RD, which I believe will take a 40T with ease (my MTB has that, but with a 1x up front). I actually am not sure what tyres are on there, I'll check at home. But it's Continental Cyclocross Speed AFAIK, so not even the grippiest for the rough stuff. Were you carrying any gear with you? If you intend doing any bikepacking you may need more. (or rather, I do !) Oh definitely then. It was just me and two bottles. And me is 65kg, and the bike comes in around 9.5kg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underachiever Posted May 30, 2017 Share We are about to buy a whole bunch of Gravel bikes for our 30th/60th's about 5 or 7 of them, we are looking at the ridley X trail carbon https://www.ridley-bikes.com/nz/en/bikes/allroad/x-trail-carbon What do you guys think parts wise, enough gears with 50/34 - 28?Hi there I bought a Niner RLT end 2015. Alu Frame, Carbon Fork, Niner Alu wheels, 105 11spd gruppo. 46/36 x 11-32 cassette. Mech disks - 140 rotor back, 160 rotor front My thoughts (when using the bike for gravel grinds and on tar):- Buy compact 50/34 with 11-32 cassette. You can go up steep gravel with that combo and would not spin out on the tar with the wind in your back. I added a Wolflink with a medium cage RD. I went up a 20% incline in the Cederberg with the 36/32 whilst sitting. It was a bitch, but do-able. - 105 1spd gruppo is stunning!! And I'm a campy fan.- Mech disks are good enough but I swopped the disks around. You have no stopping power with a 140 on the back-Niner Alu frame is a harsh ride, but looks cool.-Niner bike is lekker stable, even with 35mm tyres on gravel.- You can do better than the Niner Alu wheels - 28 spoke count, so virtually impossible to find replacement rims. And the rim quality is suspect, Wheels also weighs a ton. To go tubeless was a mission.- Getting lekker tyres is a mission - ones that can withstand the Karoo surprises.- Niner frame is compatible with 27.5 wheels, so with the smaller wheels, you can add a narrow - 2.0 MTB tyre- which makes the bike even more capable. Make sure your frame can do the same.- Niner frame has eyelets - so to add carriers is easy! lechatnoir and Pure Savage 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pure Savage Posted May 30, 2017 Share Hi there I bought a Niner RLT end 2015. Alu Frame, Carbon Fork, Niner Alu wheels, 105 11spd gruppo. 46/36 x 11-32 cassette. Mech disks - 140 rotor back, 160 rotor front My thoughts (when using the bike for gravel grinds and on tar):- Buy compact 50/34 with 11-32 cassette. You can go up steep gravel with that combo and would not spin out on the tar with the wind in your back. I added a Wolflink with a medium cage RD. I went up a 20% incline in the Cederberg with the 36/32 whilst sitting. It was a bitch, but do-able. - 105 1spd gruppo is stunning!! And I'm a campy fan.- Mech disks are good enough but I swopped the disks around. You have no stopping power with a 140 on the back-Niner Alu frame is a harsh ride, but looks cool.-Niner bike is lekker stable, even with 35mm tyres on gravel.- You can do better than the Niner Alu wheels - 28 spoke count, so virtually impossible to find replacement rims. And the rim quality is suspect, Wheels also weighs a ton. To go tubeless was a mission.- Getting lekker tyres is a mission - ones that can withstand the Karoo surprises.- Niner frame is compatible with 27.5 wheels, so with the smaller wheels, you can add a narrow - 2.0 MTB tyre- which makes the bike even more capable. Make sure your frame can do the same.- Niner frame has eyelets - so to add carriers is easy! Thanks for all the valuable feedback! The bike comes with a 50/34 and 32/11 Apparently, I wanted to add a little more forgiveness with the wolflink and get a 46/36 - 36-11. (Need the 50/36 as a max of 14 tooth jump on a 36 casette.) Looking around on the web not much choice in tires I see, but thats expected. Want to try a 36c, don't think the ridley can go 27.5 with 2.0. Nice thing about this is the hyrdaulic brakes and the decent rims. Looking to do Baviaans on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underachiever Posted May 30, 2017 Share Thanks for all the valuable feedback! The bike comes with a 50/34 and 32/11 Apparently, I wanted to add a little more forgiveness with the wolflink and get a 46/36 - 36-11. (Need the 50/36 as a max of 14 tooth jump on a 36 casette.) Looking around on the web not much choice in tires I see, but thats expected. Want to try a 36c, don't think the ridley can go 27.5 with 2.0. Nice thing about this is the hyrdaulic brakes and the decent rims. Looking to do Baviaans on it.You're welcome :-) I've travelled Baviaans with the car, and some sections are too rough for a 35-38 tyre at 2.5 Bar. I go the 27.5 route with MTB tyres - but then I am risk averse. The Baviaans regulars can advise what's best Pure Savage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy Posted May 30, 2017 Share Hi there I bought a Niner RLT end 2015. Alu Frame, Carbon Fork, Niner Alu wheels, 105 11spd gruppo. 46/36 x 11-32 cassette. Mech disks - 140 rotor back, 160 rotor front My thoughts (when using the bike for gravel grinds and on tar):- Buy compact 50/34 with 11-32 cassette. You can go up steep gravel with that combo and would not spin out on the tar with the wind in your back. I added a Wolflink with a medium cage RD. I went up a 20% incline in the Cederberg with the 36/32 whilst sitting. It was a bitch, but do-able. - 105 1spd gruppo is stunning!! And I'm a campy fan.- Mech disks are good enough but I swopped the disks around. You have no stopping power with a 140 on the back-Niner Alu frame is a harsh ride, but looks cool.-Niner bike is lekker stable, even with 35mm tyres on gravel.- You can do better than the Niner Alu wheels - 28 spoke count, so virtually impossible to find replacement rims. And the rim quality is suspect, Wheels also weighs a ton. To go tubeless was a mission.- Getting lekker tyres is a mission - ones that can withstand the Karoo surprises.- Niner frame is compatible with 27.5 wheels, so with the smaller wheels, you can add a narrow - 2.0 MTB tyre- which makes the bike even more capable. Make sure your frame can do the same.- Niner frame has eyelets - so to add carriers is easy!I have a 9er RLT steel and agree with what is said above. I run compact 50-34 Sram Red 2x with medium cage XO derailleur and TRP cable to hydraulic disks. I have 11-32 on the back but put a 40 on when doing some bike packing in the berg last year. I used the 40 only a few times but carrying 4lt of water and 6kg of kit and food made me happy I had the gear. Pure Savage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehosefat Posted May 30, 2017 Share - Mech disks are good enough but I swopped the disks around. You have no stopping power with a 140 on the back Why on earth would you do that? Use the front brake more because you get better power and traction and modulation with it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongoose! Posted May 30, 2017 Share Uci rules.No drop handles in a mtb event.Sad but true.Guess no Transbaviaans on gravel / monster bike then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertusras Posted May 30, 2017 Share But it's Continental Cyclocross Speed AFAIK, so not even the grippiest for the rough stuff. I've checked, it's 35C, but my frame can easily accommodate larger hoops. Obviously the lack of suspension and relatively thin and high pressure tyres are not great on rocky/bumpy descents, paired with a not-so-ergonomic cockpit can be quite hectic on the arms and upper body. However, when it flattens out, this thing is beast! Also, it's pretty boss going uphill as well, actually. Pure Savage and Underachiever 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pure Savage Posted May 30, 2017 Share I've checked, it's 35C, but my frame can easily accommodate larger hoops. Obviously the lack of suspension and relatively thin and high pressure tyres are not great on rocky/bumpy descents, paired with a not-so-ergonomic cockpit can be quite hectic on the arms and upper body. However, when it flattens out, this thing is beast! Also, it's pretty boss going uphill as well, actually.Awesome, thanks for all the help guys. Except mongoose. He just killed dreams :'( Will probably go for the Ridleys, just hope can get a nice bulk discount ???? Mongoose! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongoose! Posted May 30, 2017 Share Except mongoose. He just killed dreams :'( I am the proud owner of a monster (Lefty) bike yes. When I heard this, my dreams were also shattered. Pure Savage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongoose! Posted May 30, 2017 Share https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/167260-drop-bars-banned-in-mtb-races/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted May 30, 2017 Share Awesome, thanks for all the help guys. Except mongoose. He just killed dreams :'( Will probably go for the Ridleys, just hope can get a nice bulk discount ????Despite that silly rule I'm not sorry I built my 'monstercross' and ride it often. An absolute hoot to ride all over the place [emoji41] Mongoose!, the nerd, Yusran and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broncoza Posted May 30, 2017 Share On the topic of 26 to 700c; find a BRIDGESTONE MB frame and do an easy conversion using long reach road calipers. Builds a very comfortable grinder fo next to nothing. My one has taken me up and down Breedtsnek without any issues except for a double flat on tubed Continental Cyclocross Speeds. Switched to Schwalbe CX Pro and no further problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underachiever Posted May 31, 2017 Share Why on earth would you do that? Use the front brake more because you get better power and traction and modulation with it...It's a bad idea going down a gravel mountain using the front brake as the main stopping brake. Especially in turns. Especially on 35 mm tyres. On tar I would agree with you. the nerd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pure Savage Posted May 31, 2017 Share So after the coffee ride today we decided to go for the 105 spec model, about R4k cheaper, comes with a 50-34 and 32-11. Rims are meh, but will replace with American classsic tubeless ready disc with 38c WTB tires. We will then try this out for a few months, then if needed go 46-34 with a 36-11 and a road link. Outer rings on the RS500 crank are cheapies. Thanks for all the awesome advice - love the hub knowledge, even on bikeradar etc and international sites dont get this kinda feedback, may have to wait for July for tax return to click go, but getting pretty damn excited. Montagu pass is calling... Edited May 31, 2017 by Pure Savage Underachiever, Mongoose!, Bankie99 and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imagedee Posted May 31, 2017 Share cannondale CAADX frame & fork +seatpost/stem/handlebar for sale https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/251159-gravel-cx-frames/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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