Hairy Posted December 21, 2014 Share Forgot to add .....not sure how far you can slacken that ha out with the headset goodie when you take into account the 120mm head tube length. ......Will leave that to those with physical experience in using the headset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomberman Posted December 22, 2014 Share Buy your dropper post in the meantime and improve your skills with that. You can always put it on the trail machine later.Other options to trail-ify your XC rig: Shorter stem and wider bars, angled headset to slacken the geo by 1-1.5deg and fatter tires. You might not even want to go trail after that.Will this work on all bikes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted December 22, 2014 Share Forgot to add .....not sure how far you can slacken that ha out with the headset goodie when you take into account the 120mm head tube length. ......Will leave that to those with physical experience in using the headset.My head tube is 180mm or do and there is plenty space esp with a straight steerer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted December 22, 2014 Share Ray Your current ride is an xc xcm ride, the overall components will mirror this design intent. Your rims will be of the narrower proportions and once you go over a certain tyre width a larger volume tyre will start rolling on the rims, the stock stem will be a little longer and the bar a bit narrower. You already added a dropper post and I am sure this had already transformed your riding experience. Other questions like rotor size can be left for another day....you're not a big boned rider so this is not so critical to you right now if you are happy with your bikes current stopping power. If you want to do some more low cost mods, try a wider bar mated with a shorter stem. ...These two go hand in hand with one another. Tyres you have already started playing with. Check with the lbs that recently sorted your fork out for you if you can extend the travel on that rock shox. More travel will also slacken out you ha a bit and from what I recall from your bike, the tube junctions around the head tube are generous. This will also then raise your bb a bit. ....so take note. If the slacker head angle feels good then give the more expensive headset angle mahafta thigie mabob a try as this will then also drop your bb height again. Further to the ha being slackened, by just using a headset thingie you would slightly steepen your seat angle. ...not and issue as it is already rather slack and could do with a little steepening....of you add a longer fork into the equation your sa will slacken again. All things considered a 69.5deg ha is not bad at all for a xc bike and more specifically for a 29er it is rather decent. You need to know where you are going to draw the line though, there cones a point where you would just be better off getting a more gravity oriented bike.Well said, hairy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted December 22, 2014 Share Will this work on all bikes?No... depends on your bottom headset cup size. Older narrow straight head tubes won't be able to take it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomberman Posted December 22, 2014 Share No... depends on your bottom headset cup size. Older narrow straight head tubes won't be able to take it.I have a 2013 merida 120 900 D,69 degree angled head and a taper fork.My bikes feels fine but.... I feel the need to tinker and try it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raydek Posted December 22, 2014 Share Thanks again Hairy for some solid advice... If you want to do some more low cost mods, try a wider bar mated with a shorter stem. ...These two go hand in hand with one another. From my understanding the above change will create a more responsive steering? Check with the lbs that recently sorted your fork out for you if you can extend the travel on that rock shox. This might actually be something to look into. The bike came with a Recon Gold, but because of the 9mm QR the lowers started to bend (one lower went higher than the other) so they replaced them with Revelation lowers and from what I can see all Revelation forks for 29ers start at 120mm travel. Not sure how the internal of forks work, but this might be more feasible now with the Revelation lowers.. You need to know where you are going to draw the line though, there cones a point where you would just be better off getting a more gravity oriented bike. All said though, this is probably what I really need to consider, what if I mod as much as I can due to bike limitations and then I'm still not happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raydek Posted December 22, 2014 Share Thanks all for the your input and help.. Really helping! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumbleweed Posted December 22, 2014 Share The biggest impediment to skill is thought. The more you think, the more you hesitate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudi-h Posted December 22, 2014 Share mini hijack* do you guys with flats ever stop missing your pedals? my shins look like a mine field. last night again I was hopping sidewalks, driveways and storm water trenches to try and be more consistent with my hopping but gave birth to another set of pedal stud scars along the way. Shin pads the way to go, or does one get better at this? hijack off* edit: i do ride with 5.10's so I can't blame equipment... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumbleweed Posted December 22, 2014 Share Shin pads are annoying. Bulky and sweaty. Live with the scars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Fantana Posted December 22, 2014 Share mini hijack* do you guys with flats ever stop missing your pedals? my shins look like a mine field. last night again I was hopping sidewalks, driveways and storm water trenches to try and be more consistent with my hopping but gave birth to another set of pedal stud scars along the way. Shin pads the way to go, or does one get better at this? hijack off* You get a lot better over time. For general riding I don't wear pads, I only wear them when I know I am going to try something I have not attempted before. Never allow your legs to tense up when you jump or hop, that is when your feet tend to slip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Fantana Posted December 22, 2014 Share mini hijack* do you guys with flats ever stop missing your pedals? my shins look like a mine field. last night again I was hopping sidewalks, driveways and storm water trenches to try and be more consistent with my hopping but gave birth to another set of pedal stud scars along the way. Shin pads the way to go, or does one get better at this? hijack off* edit: i do ride with 5.10's so I can't blame equipment... Also, while wearing pads and your foot slips off the pedal, you must try to learn to get your shin out of the way before it hits the pedal. That way you have another form of prevention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raydek Posted December 23, 2014 Share Suppose this answers my question... https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/articles/videos/video-road-bike-party-3-san-diego-r1887 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mada3400 Posted December 23, 2014 Share yes, it can. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjN2cjBKWO4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelhicks Posted December 23, 2014 Share Ray - I think Hairy nailed it with his last post. Your bike is designed as a XCM bike with steeper geometry to ride well under specific conditions. You can (as you have done so already with some parts) put on some mods to help your riding ...Dropper post - Mtn King 2.2 Tyres etc.If I was in your position I would maybe look at a shorter stem and wider bar. BUT - I wouldnt bother with the angleset or a fork upgrade etc. I say this as the Axis, although being a good bike at a good price point was never meant to be a true trail bike. So you upgrade the front of the bike but are still limited by the longer rear stays and short rear travel. IMO - Bar and stem to suit for now - Then ride the bike until you are happy to sell it and buy a more trail oriented bike like a Giant Trance or Reign (depending on your travel fetish) ... But I personally think that farting around with bikes geometries to make a quick-fix is not the way as bikes are built with specific purposes in mind. Also you end up spending a ton of cash on something that will actually give you little gain when compared with a bike with a specific geometry and build for a different intended purpose (such as a 120-140mm travel trail bike) - rather save that cash in your pillow and put it towards a new bike for your new intended riding style and trails Do your homework - ride your bike until you feel you cant ride your normal trails harder or faster anymore and then look at switching.............................................................................................The reverse of what has been said on here would be me having bought my 165mm Santa Cruz Nomad with a 65 deg headangle - saying - "No this is too much for our trails" (which it actually is .. but i dont care) .... and then putting on a long stem and short bars and trying to reduce the fork travel or steepen up the headangle. ... When what i could have done in the first place is done my homework and just bought the right bike which in this case would have been a Tallboy or a Bronson with a steeper headangle and less travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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