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Help me shed bike weight (and spend money...)


SiriS

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Posted

if you want to shed weight and spend money then ditch the comp model and but the S-Works Camber...The problem with upgrades is that it costs you more money in the long term and you still have the heavier Alu frame at the end of it all...

 

Do the math, a decent light set of wheels is gonna set you back R10-15k lighter groupset R8-15k (depending on XT over XTR) bars R1-2k seatpost the same, so at the end of it all you have spent at least R30k on a bike that is not worth R60K (R30k bike + R30K upgrades) on the open market. If you're lucky you'll get R30k for it including the upgrades and less if you "undo" the upgrades to sell it - then you have time and labour doing so...

 

Rather sell it as is and put the R30k into buying the higher end model that includes all the tit bits (carbon rims,post, bars etc) and get the overall lighter frame.

 

Look at the end of the day its your money and I don't care how you waste it. But my thinking is its no good trying to polish a turd...

Posted

if you want to shed weight and spend money then ditch the comp model and but the S-Works Camber...The problem with upgrades is that it costs you more money in the long term and you still have the heavier Alu frame at the end of it all...

 

Do the math, a decent light set of wheels is gonna set you back R10-15k lighter groupset R8-15k (depending on XT over XTR) bars R1-2k seatpost the same, so at the end of it all you have spent at least R30k on a bike that is not worth R60K (R30k bike + R30K upgrades) on the open market. If you're lucky you'll get R30k for it including the upgrades and less if you "undo" the upgrades to sell it - then you have time and labour doing so...

 

Rather sell it as is and put the R30k into buying the higher end model that includes all the tit bits (carbon rims,post, bars etc) and get the overall lighter frame.

 

Look at the end of the day its your money and I don't care how you waste it. But my thinking is its no good trying to polish a turd...

 

So my AC Wide Lightnings which I bought for R6100 are not a "decent light set of wheels" um ok.

 

Show me a dual suspension 29er large that weighs 11.6kg (my anthem), for R31000. Bought for R22500 2 years ago, did R8500 upgrades.

 

Gonna be hard to find I think.

Posted

Sure its easier to lose 3kgs of body weight rather than 3kgs off the bike. My estimate is that knocking 3kgs off the bike will cost R20-R30k. 

Its gets closer to R20 000 per 400 grams once you start trying to shed weight and replacing everything with Carbon.

Posted

Through being almost OCD with weight-loss on my bike I got my large Trance to 11.9kg. and that is with 2x10 gearing still (be it all XTR) and includes a dropper post which is heavy in itself. 

 

If I took all the luxury items off (Dropper post, Garmin mount, etc) and fitted Racing Ralph SS Tyres and the likes I could have it around +/-10.8kg

 

Through some carefull Hubbing I have spent maybe R10-R15k (Wheels, Groupset items)

 

So it is all possible... BUT look for the "free" or cheap weight first

 

1. have you not got too much fluid in your tubeless?

2. ESI grips? - I think Chunkys are 80g the pair... some stock ones I have seen 300g

3. Heavy ally headset spacers - Carbon ones weigh nothing and can be had for cheeeep.

4. Excessive Cables.... Trim those loops man!

 

The expensive but most worthwhile for weight saving (and what it should weigh):

 

1. Wheels - not sure what wagon wheels weigh but around 1700g???

2. Crank - under 600g

3. Cassette - under 270g (10sp XTR 250g or Sram XX 210g)

4. Chain - KMC X10sl is a lot lighter than your general OEM.

5. Handlebars - under 200g

6. Stem  +/- 100g

7. Seatpost 200g-250g

 

Maybe start posting a picture of your bike... nearly 15kg sounds WAAAAAAY heavy...

 

You weigh it with a Saddle bag full of tools?

Posted

Hi, about to upgrade wheels, need some help please.

 

My LBS can get me ZTR Arch EX wheelset with a Stans hubs for approx R7500:

 

http://www.notubes.com/ZTR-Arch-EX-29er-Stock-Wheelset-P918.aspx

 

At CWC I can get Arch with Hope hubs substantially cheaper (assume price difference is hubs?):

 

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/ztr-29r-arch-exhope-wheelset

 

And I'm also interested in the American Classic Wide Lightning wheelset (seem light, strong, wide):

 

http://www.evobikes.co.za/wheels/wheelsets-mtb/american-classic-wide-lighting-29er-tubeless-wheelset.html

 

I'm confused as to the options and differences. What would you recommend?

The benefit of having the Hopes is that they make an epic buzz when free-wheeling. So, even though they are a little heavier, the world will hear you coming down the descents and get out of the way; therefore allowing you to carry the momentum gained from carrying extra weight. Science!

Posted

What are you going to use the bike for? If trail then stick with stronger stuff.

 

Upgrading a groupset is a complete waste of money IMO.

 

If you spend money it should improve performance as well so suspension is a good one as you will get decent resale on your existing parts and wheels (not huge weight gains but a few 100 grams) - you can probably get R2k back on your Rovals so that goes towards any new wheels - get the CWC Arch's or wait for a good deal on the hub - new wheels go fairly cheaply here relative to retail prices.

 

Changing a stem, bar and seatpost only benefits you when your bike is on a scale - you will never know the difference when riding and they can cost you the same as upgrading wheels or suspension as there is basically zero resale on used parts.

Posted

BTW my Camber is carbon...

 

Thanks everyone, great advice as always, lots to think of.

 

Wheel wise, leaning towards AC or Arch Ex with Hopes, will go check them out this afternoon.

 

Also getting bike back from LBS today, will certainly weight it again, hopefully something wrong with their scale. :-)

Posted

Things that make the most difference is all the stuff that rotates.

 

Wheels, tyres, brake disks, cassette, crank, chain.

Next is everything attached to your swing arm or fork (unsprung weight)

 

These all make "REAL" handling differences.

 

And just because something is carbon does not mean it is lighter... have seen carbon bits that look nice but weigh more.

 

Carbon frames are only like 100-200g lighter than the ally versions. So don't bet on a bike being light just because it is carbon it is what you hang from the frame... including yourself.

Posted

according to here - the 2013 version tested was 28lbs  = 12.7kg.

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/category/bikes/mountain-bikes/full-suspension/product/review-specialized-camber-comp-carbon-29-13-47175/

 

so i'd really check that 14.7 first before making any rash ideas!

 

yes it is an XL frame, but larger frames don't actually weigh that much more. all the heavy stuff like bb shell/headtube etc are similiar but the tubes between them are longer. maybe at a push 200g extra over a medium frame 

Posted

Hi guys

 

So I had my Specialized Comp Carbon weighed at my LBS yesterday... 14.87kg!  :eek: So I want to trim this beast down a little bit and need some esteemed Hub help please. 

 

 

 

Something doesn't seem right with that weight. 

 

My Morewood Mbuzi built with mostly AM/DH spec weighs in at 14.6kg. Weigh it again man. 

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