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Slowbee

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question:

how best to get wood to ebonize pitch black, but with grain still showing? there's burning, staining, ink+oil+stain, there's painting (but not sure of what products are available locally to achieve the effect). Thoughts, experiences?

Light sandblast to get the grain proud and a solvent based ebony stain - assuming this is a soft wood like pine. Did an old bed like this and it came out better than I thought it would.
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Ta for the advice guys. Did any of the guidance you offer, result in the following finish? This is what i'm after. I watched the vid associated with the images, and the person used a two part process of dye + stain to ensure full and proper coverage+penetration. But that's overseas stuff, so was wondering what's available locally.

 

ash-wood-ebonized-2.jpg

 

ash-wood-ebonized-1.jpg

Edited by Capricorn
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Steel wool and vinegar does the trick.

 

 

just read through another project, where additional tannins were introduced into the wood via  water solution, same way tannins are introduced when curing leather. Apparently, this was to avoid the ebonizing not progressing to the desired black color (it would go grey instead during natural variations of tannin in the wood). maybe that's where the tea comes in..hmmm

 

 

Edited by Capricorn
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just read through another project, where additional tannins were introduced into the wood via  water solution, same way tannins are introduced when curing leather. Apparently, this was to avoid the ebonizing not progressing to the desired black color (it would go grey instead during natural variations of tannin in the wood). maybe that's where the tea comes in..hmmm

 

I wasn't aware of the tannin levels in wood. Was interesting to see the application of tea to the wood to get the desired level of ebonising. Seems like a simple enough process. 

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I wasn't aware of the tannin levels in wood. Was interesting to see the application of tea to the wood to get the desired level of ebonising. Seems like a simple enough process. 

 

the tea is an easy way as i wasn't sure where'd i'd find the leather curing stuff. time to play around with tea and see .

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the tea is an easy way as i wasn't sure where'd i'd find the leather curing stuff. time to play around with tea and see .

Have a look, Woodock has a range of gel stains.

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question:

how best to get wood to ebonize pitch black, but with grain still showing? there's burning, staining, ink+oil+stain, there's painting (but not sure of what products are available locally to achieve the effect). Thoughts, experiences?

Im busy doing a quick shelf using shou sugi ban(burning) I tested on a small piece and liked the results so once this rain stops will burn the bigger pieces and see how it works out. It comes out an awesome colour with very pronounced ridges from the annual rings.

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Been quiet on the showing side of the stuff I have been doing but had quite a fun project turning a mortar and pestle for my sister.

The mortar is made of ash and the pestle is bluegum.

I think they came out ok for a first attempt.

post-4822-0-03877500-1531488076_thumb.jpg

post-4822-0-00116600-1531488091_thumb.jpg

I used OB shine juice(1/3 BLO, 1/3 shellac, 1/3 meths) as an external finish for durability but its not food safe so a mineral oil/beeswax finish was used for the pestle and interior of the mortar.

 

 

 

Recently changed out washing machine from a frontloader to a toploader so the storage on top for detergents etc is gone. Making a quick shelf for it at the moment and going to shou sugi ban as a finish, should be fun.

Edited by Rocket-Boy
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Im busy doing a quick shelf using shou sugi ban(burning) I tested on a small piece and liked the results so once this rain stops will burn the bigger pieces and see how it works out. It comes out an awesome colour with very pronounced ridges from the annual rings.

Hmm, my experience with shou sugi ban, the traditional process involves wire brushing once you lifted the tannin's to the surface and on pine it will not give the effect Capricorn is after.

 

Even yakusugi (actual surface burning for preservation) will still be too rough...however, would like to see your results never the less, would be interesting 

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Hmm, my experience with shou sugi ban, the traditional process involves wire brushing once you lifted the tannin's to the surface and on pine it will not give the effect Capricorn is after.

 

Even yakusugi (actual surface burning for preservation) will still be too rough...however, would like to see your results never the less, would be interesting 

pitcha's or it never happened!

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Hmm, my experience with shou sugi ban, the traditional process involves wire brushing once you lifted the tannin's to the surface and on pine it will not give the effect Capricorn is after.

 

Even yakusugi (actual surface burning for preservation) will still be too rough...however, would like to see your results never the less, would be interesting 

I tried the very light burning with a soft wire brush and it was a very mild effect, the annual rings go black but the softer wood between goes back to a dark brown colour. For the shelf Im making Im doing the deep burn to have the more pronounced ridges and two tone wood between.

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Hmm, my experience with shou sugi ban, the traditional process involves wire brushing once you lifted the tannin's to the surface and on pine it will not give the effect Capricorn is after.

 

Even yakusugi (actual surface burning for preservation) will still be too rough...however, would like to see your results never the less, would be interesting 

 

quite correct Ed. i've been doing variations of SGB for a while now. Light burn, hard burn, brush, no brush etc. While i love the effect, it's not what I'm after. 

thanks though RB for the suggestion.  :thumbup:

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I have never liked the burning of wood for affect. Maybe I have never seen anything decent. (Limited to amateur SA Pine attempts, in braai areas , etc.) Does burning of the surface preserve the wood .

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I have never liked the burning of wood for affect. Maybe I have never seen anything decent. (Limited to amateur SA Pine attempts, in braai areas , etc.) Does burning of the surface preserve the wood .

yes it does. It's a very cost effective replacement for tarring/creosoting poles. Boats, houses were sealed against rot and insect infestation this way for centuries.

 

The problem you'll find with SA Pine is the age of the wood. Those growth rings are massively far apart, so there's lots of softer wood that burns alot easier than the harder growth ring. This changes the result of Shou sugi ban

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