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Pure Savage

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ATE or Ferrodo are more than up to the task at a fraction of the price (most times cost wise)

 

Due to logistics (moved house and didn't have tools or space available) I had the brakes in my Frontier done recently and the mechanic used Safeline pads as I didn't bother to specify a brand. I asked about them and they said that they use them all the time and hadn't had any issues. Only problem so far is that you can smell them when they get hot but other than that they stop fine (I even locked up the other day. The sound of muds locking up on tar is glorious :D )

Mate of mine had a hilux, the old kz te that he had done some serious mods to. Raised suspension and massive muds was one of the mods. He used to drive it to work quite often and you heard him coming from far away. Basturds stole it, now he has a stock kb(brand new) so can't mod it. He's looking for an old landcruiser to buy and do some lekker mods to like his hilux.

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Mate of mine had a hilux, the old kz te that he had done some serious mods to. Raised suspension and massive muds was one of the mods. He used to drive it to work quite often and you heard him coming from far away. Basturds stole it, now he has a stock kb(brand new) so can't mod it. He's looking for an old landcruiser to buy and do some lekker mods to like his hilux.

 

Mine is a daily driver. The sound of the muds on tar is loud but not unbearable. Done a 2" lift which is as high as you want to go without eating CV joints up front and fitted an off road bumper. The look of the van changed dramatically just by putting on the muds. 

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Mine is a daily driver. The sound of the muds on tar is loud but not unbearable. Done a 2" lift which is as high as you want to go without eating CV joints up front and fitted an off road bumper. The look of the van changed dramatically just by putting on the muds. 

Bet you no one tries to cut you off in traffic.

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  • 2 weeks later...

okay so replaced my brake pads this weekend and all went great except for some brake fluid that crashed out while I pushed back the pistons 

 

now I thought some of it splased on the belt as it started screaming , cleaned with iso alcohol and rubbed some soap on belt , dead silent 

 

screaming comes back two days later and its not stopping , it gets better while the car is at operating temp but does not go away 

 

could it just still be the belt ? 

 

 

Two months ago the car was in to replace the bearing on the idler pulley but not sure how much I trust that shop ( pretty sure they drained A significant amount of my engine oil)

 

 

anyway I'll take off the belt this weekend and check the pulley agian and replace myself if indeed needed 

 

 

But I want to check so long what could it be that gets slightly better with heat ? 

 

 

Its defo near the belt cause alcohol or warm water takes the squel away imediately , should I try brake cleaner on the belt ?

 

90% sure its the original belt , car is just under 9 years old and has 195K KM  on 

Edited by BaGearA
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Never.... which becomes a problem when we go out in my wife's Honda Civic.....

Amazing how the car you drives influences whay other people on the road do. Also in a raised bakkie with a few bits and pieces that makes it look quite aggressive, even driving the speed limit people move over very quickly, and generally speaking no one cuts me off. In my wife's small (and very orange) car I get cut off, people sit right on your ass, and just generally get less "respect" on the road - even find myself giving way to bigger cars more quickly when I'm driving my wife's car - interesting how that psychology works.

 

But in all seriousness, the effect a guy in a massive suv has on other road users is the same as a cherry qq.

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Also noticed when I went from small car to Suv that I don't get tailgated nearly as much as I used to.

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okay so replaced my brake pads this weekend and all went great except for some brake fluid that crashed out while I pushed back the pistons 

 

now I thought some of it splased on the belt as it started screaming , cleaned with iso alcohol and rubbed some soap on belt , dead silent 

 

screaming comes back two days later and its not stopping , it gets better while the car is at operating temp but does not go away 

 

could it just still be the belt ? 

 

 

Two months ago the car was in to replace the bearing on the idler pulley but not sure how much I trust that shop ( pretty sure they drained A significant amount of my engine oil)

 

 

anyway I'll take off the belt this weekend and check the pulley agian and replace myself if indeed needed 

 

 

But I want to check so long what could it be that gets slightly better with heat ? 

 

 

Its defo near the belt cause alcohol or warm water takes the squel away imediately , should I try brake cleaner on the belt ?

 

90% sure its the original belt , car is just under 9 years old and has 195K KM  on 

Change the belt. The noise is it slipping, so the friction material is probably glazed. It'll eventually disappear but as the belt is old, you may as well fit a replacement.

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Not a good start to a Friday. Car went in on Tuesday for a oil leak, just been informed that they suspect a crack in the gear box casing.  :(  :(  :(  :(

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Not a good start to a Friday. Car went in on Tuesday for a oil leak, just been informed that they suspect a crack in the gear box casing. :( :( :( :(

Ouch, what vehicle is it?

Probably more economical to find a 2hnd complete gearbox if it's more than a few years old.

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Not a good start to a Friday. Car went in on Tuesday for a oil leak, just been informed that they suspect a crack in the gear box casing. :( :( :( :(

Sometimes a service exchange unit works out quicker and cheaper. Give one of the gearbox places a call
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If anybody is interested I have a Garrett 717858 turbo off a 2005 B7 Audi 2,0 Tdi for sale. Was saving it for another project but I am never ever going to get there. Funds raised are going into the bike fund. Looking for R3500. PM me if you know someone who may be interested.

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  • 1 year later...

My Girlfriends A180 Merc has given a fault code saying the auto-gearbox needs to see a  workshop.

 

The first guy I found in the yellow pages quoted R500 diagnostics but suspects a R16K job to replace some or other plate with sensors inside.

 

Anyone can recommend a Gearbox Guru that knows the Mercedes Gearboxes that may charge something more affordable in these tough times for us all.

 

The vehicle is a 2012 A180 Diesel Auto

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My Girlfriends A180 Merc has given a fault code saying the auto-gearbox needs to see a  workshop.

 

The first guy I found in the yellow pages quoted R500 diagnostics but suspects a R16K job to replace some or other plate with sensors inside.

 

Anyone can recommend a Gearbox Guru that knows the Mercedes Gearboxes that may charge something more affordable in these tough times for us all.

 

The vehicle is a 2012 A180 Diesel Auto

 

Call Alan Edwards motors in Kenilworth, he will refer you to a good place. I can't remember the name but it's also close to his workshop.

 

But with most automatic car's. The bill will probably be high. 

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