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Pure Savage

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Posted

Speaking of thermostats, my old man replaced his water pump on his 1976 Merc 230.4 and filled the system with water but the temp gauge went sky high on the first run but the top hose off the radiator was cold.

I gave him a hand and drilled a 1mm hole in the Thermostat flange to allow the air to escape and thus bleed the system allowing water to be at the thermostat instead of just air and not allowing it to open.

My old Landrover Series III had a small hole in the thermostat and a little floating ball type goodie that did that automatically and then shut the bleed hole when the water floated the tiny ball.

 

I think a lot of airlocks are caused by air not being able to go past the thermostat that is well sealed in the housing.

 

Same thing in my MK1 golf, made a little hole in the thermostat... 

 

also used to just run without it

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Posted

Speaking of thermostats, my old man replaced his water pump on his 1976 Merc 230.4 and filled the system with water but the temp gauge went sky high on the first run but the top hose off the radiator was cold.

I gave him a hand and drilled a 1mm hole in the Thermostat flange to allow the air to escape and thus bleed the system allowing water to be at the thermostat instead of just air and not allowing it to open.

My old Landrover Series III had a small hole in the thermostat and a little floating ball type goodie that did that automatically and then shut the bleed hole when the water floated the tiny ball.

 

I think a lot of airlocks are caused by air not being able to go past the thermostat that is well sealed in the housing.

I've had that issue. I've found the cheaper thermostats don't have the little air relief wobbler in them. I've started using Hella or Echlin only. You also need to pay attention to how they are installed. If that valve is at the lowest point it will also cause headaches. I suppose if it is a hole it won't matter. The valve type must be at the highest point it can be in the housing or the air just will not come out.

Lot's of systems also have bleed valves at the highest point of the cooling systems now to make life easier.

 

 

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Posted

Same thing in my MK1 golf, made a little hole in the thermostat... 

 

also used to just run without it

Always best to run with a thermostat and not remove it.

 

Besides warming the engine quicker in Winter, it slows down the flow of water in the radiator, thus allowing the heat exchange better than running full flow and not giving off enough of it's heat to the fins.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

VW again!!! Quote for 2 front brake pads - R4000!!! The guys at the local brake and clutch can do it for me for R950 and they skim the discs too...

Posted

VW again!!! Quote for 2 front brake pads - R4000!!! The guys at the local brake and clutch can do it for me for R950 and they skim the discs too...

Get Ate pads from Goldwagen, same OE manufacturer for most of the VW branded pads.
Posted

VW again!!! Quote for 2 front brake pads - R4000!!! The guys at the local brake and clutch can do it for me for R950 and they skim the discs too...

 

That is quite rough. My X3's pads used to cost R4300 for 2 and only lasted about 25,000km if I look at the motorplan history.

 

I only kept the Beemer for 30,000km (how long I usually keep a vehicle) and had both replaced about 15,000km into my ownership just before its motorplan lapsed. It would have been insanity to take it to the dealers after that!

Posted

Dont want to be a bearer of bad news, but a friend of mine had a caddy as well. He spent well over 30k on repairs in the 4 years or so that he had it. 

Posted

bloody hell.

 

Cam position sensor has packed up on my caddy, and there's a vacuum leak somewhere wreaking havoc with the boost controller and wastegate actuator. Thought I found the leak, but nooo.

 

Getting it sorted tomorrow, but that's another 4k.

How many km on the odo?

 

VW/Audi are ***. They start giving trouble after 80-ish kkm.

 

 

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Posted

How many km on the odo?

 

VW/Audi are ***. They start giving trouble after 80-ish kkm.

 

 

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hehe... 1.9 tdi

 

232000km 

 

Just had a full top end overhaul

 

Head skim

New cam

New glow plugs

new intake valves & guides

new cam followers

front control arms

new Crank position sensor

new cam position sensor (that packed up after 3,000 km - Goldwagen unit)

 

These 1.9's have been known to be pretty sturdy, as long as you look after em. Seems the previous owners did a very good job of not looking after it. 

Posted

How many km on the odo?

VW/Audi are ***. They start giving trouble after 80-ish kkm.

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Hey now, let's keep things civil.

 

Everyone has a few stories of manufacturer x.....

 

Let's keep this thread useful.

Posted

hehe... 1.9 tdi

 

232000km

 

Just had a full top end overhaul

 

Head skim

New cam

New glow plugs

new intake valves & guides

new cam followers

front control arms

new Crank position sensor

new cam position sensor (that packed up after 3,000 km - Goldwagen unit)

 

These 1.9's have been known to be pretty sturdy, as long as you look after em. Seems the previous owners did a very good job of not looking after it.

Yikes. That's rough man.

And you only recently got the car?

 

 

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Posted

Hey now, let's keep things civil.

 

Everyone has a few stories of manufacturer x.....

 

Let's keep this thread useful.

As a VW golf owner, I am not just talking from anecdotal experience, but new piston rings on 40000 km.

My dad ran a fleet of 1000+ vehicles - and guess what? Toyota was still the cheapest car to maintain. VW and Audi not so much.

 

 

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