2x10 to 1x12 is it worth it??

[HOEKVLAG]

 

 

• but why do you even need the compromise ? it is not as if we sit and calculate the exact next ratio and then shift front and back to find it each time. I (and almost everyone I have ridden with) tend to use it mostly as two independent systems. So on the flats and terrain that tends downwards, I put it in the big ring and use the back as one would a 1x. If it is hilly and upwards, I put it in the small ring and do the same. Best of both worlds. Two 1x setups giving me best top end and best low end.    Maybe 3x is even better you can power a 44 to the hills and spin up them in a 22 and wear out you middle ring by doing almost everything else in it.

 

 

^ This is exactly my experience on a 2x

[eddy]

 

20 times faster than average... do we need to unpack what 20 times faster means??

 

If Y is the speed of A Chainring and X is the speed of B chainring....

 

Jan runs twenty times as fast as Koos means that the Jan's speed is twenty times Koos's.

So if Jan runs at 1 km an hour, Koos runs at 1 x 20 km an hour = 20 km an hour.

 

Thus if I got 2,000km's from a chairing, you can get 40,000km from a chainring? I need serious training on how to stretch my drivetrain....

 

Let us agree to disagree.

 

I am still dancing on the grave of the front derailleur, and you can make me eat my words if I am wrong on the death of the FD and multi front rings on MTB's.

 

 

The problem with trying to be a wise guy, is that unless you understand the point the other guy is making, you run the risk that people may doubt you insight.  

 

You forgot that you had posted a ratio of Chainring to Cassette  wear which is what he commented on. Bring in the cassette as a variable (say z) and see how valid your simplistic (and sarcastic) x vs y example is.

 

Nobody who maintains a bike properly (and knows how to use a chain gauge) wears out a chainring at 3 times the rate of a cassette. And nobody wears out a chainring at the same rate as a chain as you state.

 

Oh, and I must check but I think that I have got about 40 000km on one of my chainrings. I have obviously gone through many chains and cassettes in that time.

[Shebeen]

The problem with trying to be a wise guy, is that unless you understand the point the other guy is making, you run the risk that people may doubt you insight.  

 

You forgot that you had posted a ratio of Chainring to Cassette  wear which is what he commented on. Bring in the cassette as a variable (say z) and see how valid your simplistic (and sarcastic) x vs y example is.

 

Nobody who maintains a bike properly (and knows how to use a chain gauge) wears out a chainring at 3 times the rate of a cassette [except he uses 3 chainrings per year, and 1 cassette every 2 years - so it's 6 times!]. And nobody wears out a chainring at the same rate as a chain as you state.

 

Oh, and I must check but I think that I have got about 40 000km on one of my chainrings. I have obviously gone through many chains and cassettes in that time.

[Traveler]

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What I would like to know is this.

 

With 2x10 and 1x11 1x12 you can have the top end and the bottom end you need.

 

BUT do you not miss the spread in between top and bottom. I find that my legs last longer if I can get the gear with the sweet spot and not the one just above or below?

I do not experience "missing" that right gear, I am still to come across another rider (not fortnightly warrior) that expressed missing gears in the middle of the range. The spread on most 11 spd cassettes is not very wide. Shimano addressed the possibility of large jumps by keeping the bottom 10 gears very close and them the jump to the 46t to be quite noticeable which might disrupt the cadence under certain more technical conditions. I have ridden a Giant at Wolwespruit with an XT 1x11 on it and going to the 46t was noticeable.  With that said, whichever is your setup of choice, it does make sense to do a bit research and look at the kind of riding you do 90% of the time and ride a couple of bikes fitted with what you are considering.

[BlinkFan]

 

Oh, and I must check but I think that I have got about 40 000km on one of my chainrings. I have obviously gone through many chains and cassettes in that time.

 

Please start a new thread called "How to properly maintain your bike and get 40,000km on a single chainring". It will be more valuable that Bitcoin!

[Jehosefat]

 

 I (and almost everyone I have ridden with) tend to use it mostly as two independent systems. So on the flats and terrain that tends downwards, I put it in the big ring and use the back as one would a 1x. If it is hilly and upwards, I put it in the small ring and do the same. Best of both worlds. Two 1x setups giving me best top end and best low end.    Maybe 3x is even better you can power a 44 to the hills and spin up them in a 22 and wear out you middle ring by doing almost everything else in it.

 

 

Pretty much exactly this although I stay in the big ring almost all the time (bike came with 34/24 chainrings and 11-42 cassette. When I wear it out I'm gonna change to a 38/28 in the front because no-one needs 24-42 unless you like riding up cliffs)

[IceCreamMan]

Real answer is it depends, and depends on the riding you do. I have recently bought a bike with 1x11 and my old nail is a multi chain ring set up. On the granny gears no problem the 1x11 has a 46 tooth and mated to a 30 3tooth chain ring and it gets me up any hill. Only problem being is that I am large and put a lot of power on such a high gear that it tends to slip a lot. There is a hill near me where at one point it’s a 35 degree angle and it goes up there with no worries and much quicker than my other bike but this could be due to factors other than gearing. Advantages of a 1x include the obvious previously mentioned by other posters but for me living in a muddy area it’s a pleasure not having clumps of mud around the FD etc.

 

Now, the problem is on the other end of the spectrum, with a 1x11 I spin out quickly without actually going very fast. As I cycle to the trails etc this can be annoying, and as others have mentioned I guess the drive train will wear out relatively quicker.

 

If you doing more XCT then multi is the better option. If more gnarley trails and the like then a 1x is less hassle and fuss.

 

The marketers will tell you 1x is better cos that’s their job, for us average joes I am not convinced.

[arendoog]

I am riding 1 x 11 ,2 x 10 and 1 x 10 and 1 x 1 at the moment .The Q is .Is it worthwhile?.The answer is yes ! .My Q is .Is it necessary .Answer is .No !! 

[ChrisF]

I have previously posted my love and commitment to a 2x setup ..... time to eat my words.

 

 

Recently needed some surgery on my bike, including various components on the drive train.  Knipe_Racing was running a special on the SRAM Eagle GX 1x12 set .....

 

 

Due to my knees and my type of riding a very low granny is a must.  And I knew my ratios of the 2x10 I had.  We opted for the 10-50 12 speed cluster at the back and 28T in front.  It gives me a very low climbing ratio, and still delivers and easy 35km/h in top gear, peaking out at 40km/h.

 

 

After two rides I will admit I am ENJOYING the 1x12 setup.

 

 

I do miss the fore-finger pull for the up-shifts, still grab to realise I need to push with my thumb for an up-shift.

 

Downshifts are incredible, with a possible 5 gears in one long stroke.  Very handy when you have a steep down section that immediately becomes a vertical climb.

 

 

 

Yes, depending on what type of riding you do, you may well prefer a 32 or even a 34 up front.  But then you lose the granny ....  So for those that need a very low AND a very high gear this may not be the ideal solution.  I can now see why some love this, and I also understand why it is not perfect for all .... chose wisely .....

 

 

I am happy with my purchase.  (still have my 3x10 on my commuter     )

[SteveBlair]

HI All 

 

I have a Specialized Camber 2015 model - from the post it seems you can get pretty close to the current 2 x 10 ratios,  the biggest reason to change is:  dropping the chain and loading the crank on a unexpected climb, and not being able to change easily. 

 

My Question is - has anybody tried to do an Oval with the 1 x 12 upgrade and what or how has this improved your power delivery , climbing etc...

 

Im a larger and heavier cyclist - 95 kgs  and looking for any help to keep up with those 70kg racing snakes  

[Grease_Monkey]

HI All

 

I have a Specialized Camber 2015 model - from the post it seems you can get pretty close to the current 2 x 10 ratios, the biggest reason to change is: dropping the chain and loading the crank on a unexpected climb, and not being able to change easily.

 

My Question is - has anybody tried to do an Oval with the 1 x 12 upgrade and what or how has this improved your power delivery , climbing etc...

 

Im a larger and heavier cyclist - 95 kgs and looking for any help to keep up with those 70kg racing snakes

An oval aint gonna help you keep up with the 70kg racing snakes, the only way you will do that is to lose weight (speaking as a 100kg person myself). If a 70kg person has a respectable ftp of 210 watts that equates to 3 watts per kg. For you to have that same power to weight you have to produce an ftp of 285 watts. No oval chainring is gonna chage that. And the reality is that most 70kg racing snakes are pushing closer to an ftp of 300 watts and above (4 to 4.5 watts per kg), making keeping up with them even harder if you are heavy (think ftps of over 400watts).

 

Where an oval does help is low speed, low cadence, rocky climbs. You tend to be able to keep the cranks turning at a consistent speed and therefore have slightly better traction. It makes a difference, but it's not gonna turn you into a racing snake...

 

I've run oval on all my bikes on 1x10 and 1x11 systems. Will do the same when I upgrade to 1x12 as well...

 

Edit: Keep in mind the largest chainring that fits on your bike is a 34t, so if you go oval that will be a 32t limit. You may run out of top end speed depending on the cassette you use (if you use one with a small ring of 10t you get a ratio of 3.2 - plenty of speed, if you go for a cassette with a small ring of 11t you will get a ratio of 2.9 which means you may run out of gears quickly). A 34t with a 1x12 seems to be the sweet spot for most - which on your current frame rules out an oval chainring.

[Matchstix]

Use the shimano drivetrain calculator. . Its not your overall range but also the jumps that is made between the gears that is important. Some of my mates on eagle reckon the jumps are to big.