Drivetrain problems - FED UP!!

[dev null]

Bike shops often don’t have the time and skill to properly diagnose issues. There are assumptions made and fixes suggested that are generally common fixes that are quick to do and will be with items that are carried as stock spares. It is therefore important to build a relationship with a bike shop as they will have better insight to the bike’s recent history ito maintenance and parts replaced. While I am capable to do most maintenance items on my bikes, I prefer to have an expert do the work. Maybe because I have a good LBS that generally do not miss things on my bike.

 

 

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We are lucky in the SW area in that we have some good bike shops with regards to the knowledge by the people doing the servicing. I have a very good relationship with 3 shops in the area, even though I service my bikes myself. Some of them help me without charging me when I get stuck on something, or give advice when something does not make sense to me.

[Eddy Gordo]

I would love to know what LBS!!

However, how many km have you put on your first set before you changed it acc to the LBS?

Buy yourself a chain checking tool so that you have a better idea as to when it needs to be changed.

Start supporting a more honest LBS!! you might go thru a few until you find one you like!!

My personal choice is Crown and Stoke!! but I do alot of it myself.

[dasilvarsa]

 

I have the BBB chain checker BTL 51

Firstly, is it any good ?

Every chain that I've checked with it passes the 0.75 test even if the chain has done 3000 Km

The Pin goes in a little but never bottoms out. On a brand new chain the pin goes in a little less.

Am I using it correctly ?

[Karman de Lange]

prod87598_Silver_NE_01.jpg

 

I have the BBB chain checker BTL 51

Firstly, is it any good ?

Every chain that I've checked with it passes the 0.75 test even if the chain has done 3000 Km

The Pin goes in a little but never bottoms out. On a brand new chain the pin goes in a little less.

Am I using it correctly ?

 

3000km is not much for a chain.    

 

If you really worried, get inch measuring tape/ruler , measure 12  links, should be 12 inches up to max of 12 1/8 inches.  (think someone mentioned that already)

 

See https://cyclingtips.com/2016/09/how-to-check-for-chain-wear-2/  how to use tool and how todo manually

[Headshot]

 

Hi,

 

I recently took my bike in for a service. (It's a stock standard Giant Reign 2 with Deore / SLX setup - 2x10).

 

The service was around R2400. It was a major service + the following had to be replaced: 

• Chain
• Cassette
• Front chain ring (small one)
• Cables
• Jockey pulleys

Now, 150km in (one ride in that 150km was a shuttle day where minimum pedalling was required) after the service I snapped the chain. After "Gwinning" back to the start of the trail the local bike shop tells me the chain is worn out and the cassette shows signs of wear, also the jockey pulleys needs replacing because it's shifting the chain off the cassette / crank.  

 

R340 later (new chain fitted /labour/shifting checked) I am able  ride home. 

 

 

1. Do I need to get a better (more expensive) drivetrain?
2. Is the way I am shifting gears the problem?
3. Do I need to have a bike check after each ride? 
4. Would a "simpler" setup like a 1x11 sort out the issue?
5. How the hell do you enjoy your hobby if have to haemorrhage money the whole time?

 

is this the 2013ish 26er Reign? If so I had one and also had my fair share of weird chain related issues. I snapped an XTR chain at least once and had all kinds of grief with the chain falling off. I converted mine to a 1x10 which was far more reliable.

 

Just get a wider range Sunrace 11-42 cassette and narrow wide front ring from Rapide and throw away that left hand shifter for good. 

 

That said, your LBS seems to have ripped you off with that last service. 

[Schnavel]

3000km is not much for a chain.    

 

I got close to 10000km with my last chain (road bike).

[BaGearA]

prod87598_Silver_NE_01.jpg

 

I have the BBB chain checker BTL 51

Firstly, is it any good ?

Every chain that I've checked with it passes the 0.75 test even if the chain has done 3000 Km

The Pin goes in a little but never bottoms out. On a brand new chain the pin goes in a little less.

Am I using it correctly ?

remember if that tool falls once and just bends ever so slightly its NOT accurate anymore , rather measure with A ruler 

[Mongoose!]

remember if that tool falls once and just bends ever so slightly its NOT accurate anymore , rather measure with A ruler

 

Please share how to measure it with a ruler?

[Kalahari Vegmot]

Please share how to measure it with a ruler?

Post #15

[Traveler]

remember if that tool falls once and just bends ever so slightly its NOT accurate anymore , rather measure with A ruler

 

And if your ruler is out of true? Unless you have a triangular ruler any flat ruler equally likely to bend. With your ruler you have 2 chances to make a parallax error....

 

Never trust any measure instrument without a calibration certificate to start with.

[cfcjim]

You're not measuring MotoGP bores and pistons here, just a bicycle chain, a few microns either way will make no difference at all.

[RiverInTheRoad]

Check the length of your chain. The LBS might have replaced everything but didnt get the chain length right. Long travel bikes can have large chain growth. If the chain is too short your chain acts as your suspension. Bottoming out then puts a huge force on your drivetrain and hub