Are carbon road wheels worth it?

[andreas17777]

So the answer is disc brake carbon wheels. 

[Tristand]

Agree with what Martin has said.

From the research that I've done the problem is with carbon clincher deep sections. Tubbies don't seem to have the braking problem or it's a lot less significant.

 

In SA they still melt. Know somebody who used a Chinese carbon set for about 3 or 4 years and then the brake pad went through as it had worn out.

Braking is not the only factor.

I melted a Chinese rim by leaving the bike in the scorching sun and then slowly descending from the finish on Paarl's mountain. The heat generated by the friction of the brake surface is added to the heat already present in the rim.

 

High end wheels use higher temperature resins, you get what you pay for.

[Cyclewizz]

Braking is not the only factor.

I melted a Chinese rim by leaving the bike in the scorching sun and then slowly descending from the finish on Paarl's mountain. The heat generated by the friction of the brake surface is added to the heat already present in the rim.

 

High end wheels use higher temperature resins, you get what you pay for.

 

Yip the resins are the challenge.

Some time back there was a guy on here that had melted his wheel because it was inline of the exhaust. 

 

 

So the answer is disc brake carbon wheels. 

 

That's what the gurus say and makes sense

[Thomo]

Agree with what Martin has said.

From the research that I've done the problem is with carbon clincher deep sections. Tubbies don't seem to have the braking problem or it's a lot less significant.

 

In SA they still melt. Know somebody who used a Chinese carbon set for about 3 or 4 years and then the brake pad went through as it had worn out.

The braking surfaces probably won't last as long as alu.

Carbon clincher rims have however come a long way since they first became available, even the cheapest Asian derivatives.

[Martin PJ]

So the answer is disc brake carbon wheels. 

 

As long as they are mineral oil (Shimano) and not brake fluid. My son and myself both boiled the brake fluid going into Inanda valley down Wyebank road on mountain bikes, they were Avids and Formula 1 brakes with Dot 4 brake fluid that I had recently bled.

 

Brake fluid boils at low temperature if contaminated with water.

[V12man]

As long as they are mineral oil (Shimano) and not brake fluid. My son and myself both boiled the brake fluid going into Inanda valley down Wyebank road on mountain bikes, they were Avids and Formula 1 brakes with Dot 4 brake fluid that I had recently bled.

 

Brake fluid boils at low temperature if contaminated with water.

Use Castro srf fluid and you will never have this problem again... not all dot 4 fluids are the sane ito wet or dry boiling points - massive differences by version.

 

SRF is the dogs bullocks...

[Martin PJ]

Use Castro srf fluid and you will never have this problem again... not all dot 4 fluids are the sane ito wet or dry boiling points - massive differences by version.

 

SRF is the dogs bullocks...

 

Yes, I used plain old Dot 4, was rubbish.

[Andreas_187]

Has anyone owned a set of the 50mm CSC wheels often advertised in the classifieds (R9000)?

[V12man]

Yes, I used plain old Dot 4, was rubbish.

If you check the boiling points of mineral oil you will find they are very low as well - actually lower than most dot 4 varieties.

[Martin PJ]

If you check the boiling points of mineral oil you will find they are very low as well - actually lower than most dot 4 varieties.

 

I changed to Shimano because of this problem. The day we went down Inanda valley there was a whole group and the guys on Shimano had no problems. I figured the mineral oil is not affected by water, so it would be more stable.

[V12man]

I changed to Shimano because of this problem. The day we went down Inanda valley there was a whole group and the guys on Shimano had no problems. I figured the mineral oil is not affected by water, so it would be more stable.

It's not completely true - it is affected by water - but unlike most dot fluids it's not hygroscopic, so doesn't absorb atmospheric water - BUT - if your seals leak and you get water contamination, you will be up a creek quickly.... although at fairly low speed usually, because they boil relatively quickly.

 

The rate at which dot fluid absorbs atmospheric water is actually quite low - so if that's the only problem your brakes have it's generally not a problem - but water contamination is a problem for both dot and mineral oil systems - not something you want.

 

This is a nice graph of the effec tof water contamination on dot fluids - but the key point is that you need fairly contaminated fluid to be into the big trouble zone - and in general that's not from atmospheric contamination - your car's fluid is actually open to the air (via the overflow bleeder) and doesn't become a problem under normal circumstances. Bikes brakes are not generally open systems - so mostly contamination is via seal leakage during washing, river crossings etc.

 

[CrankShaft]

If the Zondas are quicker than the Shamals, why even consider the Shamals?

I have the 15c shamals.. Im assuming the 17c shamals are faster than the 17c Zondas..which is why I recommend them 

[CrankShaft]

You left out the Eurus.

Oh those Shamals roll so, so nicely though.

 

I'm also a Campy wheel fan, those wheels are awesome

OOh I forgot those. Loving the new Zondas though . It just does not make sense spending anymore money than those wheels for the performance they give unless you getting paid to win. 

[Bateleur1]

I changed to Shimano because of this problem. The day we went down Inanda valley there was a whole group and the guys on Shimano had no problems. I figured the mineral oil is not affected by water, so it would be more stable.

 

I managed to boil Shimano Mineral on my MTB as well. Yes it was a 35-40% slope and some inexperience on my side.  But it put me off the idea of disk brakes on my road bike.  Will like to upgrade to carbon rims for my road bike in future so reading this thread with interrest but must say I will propably try the Alps near Innsbruck on my Alu rims first.

[Let's Ride]

Yes they look cool and because you have just dropped over 10k on a set of wheels you will ride faster. If you have the means go for it.

[Tristand]

Remember that the improved aerodynamics of the wheel will only be significant and increasingly so at high speeds. So if your top speed is not terribly high to begin with then you won't see all that much of an improvement. However, if you can push out the watts......