When is a MTB cassette kaput?

[Delarey]

I am curious to know how to determine when to replace a cassette. Previously my LBS told me to replace my cassette when I rode my chain to 1.0 stretch. I then bought a measuring tool to make sure that I replace my chain in time

Last year my W2W riding partner from the UK rocked up in SA with a chain that was over 1.0 stretch. He ended up just replacing the chain and hoped for the best (1x11 Sram). It is now a year later and he is still riding with the old cassette with zero problems. Makes me wonder whether it's really necessary to replace the cassette if you went over 1.0 on the chain.

[MudLark]

What does 100% mean when you say "rode my chain to 100%"? What was the % stretch in the chain per the chain gauge? 0.5%, 0.75% or something more than that?

[Robbie Stewart]

I just got a call from LBS. I booked it in for a bit of play on the rear wheel, and sommer a full-house service.

Sir, they say, your free-hub is in it's chops. We need to replace it. R1600 for the free-hub, new skewer and the service. Bike has around 1500 km on the odo...

 

_{<Cough, cough, splutter, splutter, weezes, wipes tears from eyes and goes and makes some extra strong coffee...>}

 

[edit] I forget to mention, the techie also threw in the fact that the chain has passed 0.75%...leave it I said...

[Delarey]

What does 100% mean when you say "rode my chain to 100%"? What was the % stretch in the chain per the chain gauge? 0.5%, 0.75% or something more than that?

Sorry I suppose a full 1.0 stretch is then rather the correct terminology.

[droo]

A cassette is dead when a chain worn to 0.5% or more has been used on it.

 

Replace your chain before 0.5% and your cassette should last indefinitely.

 

If your chain goes over 0.5%, ride the whole drivetrain until it starts skipping under load, then replace the whole thing and keep a closer eye on chain wear next time.

[Jacoo]

A cassette is dead when a chain worn to 0.5% or more has been used on it.

 

Replace your chain before 0.5% and your cassette should last indefinitely.

 

If your chain goes over 0.5%, ride the whole drivetrain until it starts skipping under load, then replace the whole thing and keep a closer eye on chain wear next time.

Isnt it 0.75? With 0.5 being the first indicator? Why do chain gauges have a 0.5 and 0.75 then? If you say *before* 0.5, should you check the chain continously until it just goes into 0.5?

[partydave]

I will probably get roasted for this, but I bought my bike second hand 5 years ago. I've since put close to 4.5k on the drivetrain and it doesn't miss a beat. I lie, I replaced a broken link with a master link 1200km ago. I regularly service my freehub and BB and make sure everything is tight and well lubricated. 

 

 

Changing chain now as I purchased a new cassette to increase gear range

[Neverfit]

Isnt it 0.75? With 0.5 being the first indicator? Why do chain gauges have a 0.5 and 0.75 then? If you say *before* 0.5, should you check the chain continously until it just goes into 0.5?

I see Parker advises 10 speed and lower to use 0.5% as max, and 11/12 speed use 0.75%, with single speed at 1% wear.

 

 

There are no set formulas for chain wear vs cassette wear. This is dependent on the components (SLX/XT/XTR..etc) themselves. But you should be able to get 4-5 chains worth of life out of a cassette. The more wear on the chain before replacement, the more damage and wear to cassette.

Invest in a chain wear gauge and measure your chain wear once a month. Once you get to 0.5%, replace the chain.

the added 200km between 0.5% and 0.75% is not worth the extra wear on the cassette.

[gogo@]

When you are the load and your cassette and chain decide to divorce as you stand up to pedal to get through an intersection ahead of a car...

Don't wait!! If in doubt, replace...

[MrJacques]

A cassette is dead when a chain worn to 0.5% or more has been used on it.

 

Replace your chain before 0.5% and your cassette should last indefinitely.

 

If your chain goes over 0.5%, ride the whole drivetrain until it starts skipping under load, then replace the whole thing and keep a closer eye on chain wear next time.

 

I understand that it will wear out quicker if you don't replace the chain, but won't the cassette wear out whether you change the chain or not?

 

I think it also depends on usage - I have a 3x9 drivetrain and I shift mostly using the front chainrings, staying on the same gear or two in the back, so I've worn those out while the rest of the cassette is fine. I'd love to have a gearbox

[Shebeen]

or instead of a chain gauge you probably already have one of these in the house.

 

 

I post this one as it measures in inches.

you can often find 3m/10ft ones.

i like to measure 12 links.

 

Using a ruler, a new chain should measure exactly 12 inches across 12 links, from middle of pin to middle of pin. The number most commonly agreed on for a worn chain is one percent elongation between links. In reality though, you want to replace the chain before this point.

So therefore anything past 12, 1/16 inches (0.5 percent) would be the time to replace a chain. And anything past 12, 1/8inches (one percent) has been worn to death and so a new cassette is likely needed.

 

 

if you don't have an imperial ruler, then do the convert and write it on your tape measure in artliner

 

12 " = 30.48cm

12 1/16" = 30,64cm (0.5%)

12 1/8" = 30,79 (1%)

https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/bicycle-chain-wear-explained-46015/

[MrJacques]

You can usually see when the teeth become sharp and pointy, like shark fins. You'll also notice gears skipping.

[lechatnoir]

A cassette is dead when a chain worn to 0.5% or more has been used on it.

 

Replace your chain before 0.5% and your cassette should last indefinitely.

 

If your chain goes over 0.5%, ride the whole drivetrain until it starts skipping under load, then replace the whole thing and keep a closer eye on chain wear next time.

 

^^^THIS

 

Isnt it 0.75? With 0.5 being the first indicator? Why do chain gauges have a 0.5 and 0.75 then? If you say *before* 0.5, should you check the chain continously until it just goes into 0.5?

 

In Droo we trust

[droo]

Isnt it 0.75? With 0.5 being the first indicator? Why do chain gauges have a 0.5 and 0.75 then? If you say *before* 0.5, should you check the chain continously until it just goes into 0.5?

 

If you run it to 0.75 on a 1x system you'll end up replacing your chainring too, and you may end up skipping on the smaller cogs if you spend a lot of time in them.

 

Also with the coatings on chains you'll find if you measure regularly that it takes a long time to get through the coating, but once it's through wear accelerates pretty quickly. I tend to replace chains as soon as they start elongating - R 450-ish for a chain is nothing compared to R 3k + for a complete drivetrain.

[dasilvarsa]

To get the best life out of a chain never de grease it . Just wipe it with an oily rag and add smoove every single ride.

De greasing removes the magic stuff what was put inside the chain when it was made.

Replace chain @ .5 wear on 11 and 12 speed.

[Martin PJ]

Replace chain at 0.75% wear. Replace cassette when new chain slips. Works for me.