Delarey Posted November 13, 2018 Share Replace chain at 0.75% wear. Replace cassette when new chain slips. Works for me.With this approach, how many chains do you go through before you replace the cassette typically? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikebloke Posted November 13, 2018 Share I just got a call from LBS. I booked it in for a bit of play on the rear wheel, and sommer a full-house service. Sir, they say, your free-hub is in it's chops. We need to replace it. R1600 for the free-hub, er new skewerand the service. Bike has around 1500 km on the odo... <Cough, cough, splutter, splutter, weezes, wipes tears from eyes and goes and makes some extra strong coffee...> [edit] I forget to mention, the techie also threw in the fact that the chain has passed 0.75%...leave it I said... wow man they must have really seen you coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Stewart Posted November 13, 2018 Share wow man they must have really seen you coming I was informed that the hub "includes" a new skewer, like that will somehow sweeten the deal. The ONLY reason I relented was because if I decide to forego the repair, and 2 months later the wheel collapses on me, then all I will hear is "but we told you so..." Techie kept on insisting that I would be able to ride the bike as is, albeit with a creaking sound when I am in the big ring up front, small ring at the back, putting down the watts... That, and I am a big boy. I play hard with my toys. I like them to be in serviceable (read keep me from crashing) condition. All of a sudden I feel like I live in the Transvaal, waar ek k@k en betaal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzie NL Posted November 13, 2018 Share I will probably get roasted for this, but I bought my bike second hand 5 years ago. I've since put close to 4.5k on the drivetrain and it doesn't miss a beat. I lie, I replaced a broken link with a master link 1200km ago. I regularly service my freehub and BB and make sure everything is tight and well lubricated. Changing chain now as I purchased a new cassette to increase gear rangeAnd that's when the problems will start. You can ride any drivetrain moer as long as you do not change the cassette, chain or chainring(s) as they will all wear simultanuously. BUT change any of them afterwards and the chain start slipping off the worn components. Been there, done that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partydave Posted November 13, 2018 Share And that's when the problems will start. You can ride any drivetrain moer as long as you do not change the cassette, chain or chainring(s) as they will all wear simultanuously. BUT change any of them afterwards and the chain start slipping off the worn components. Been there, done that From the mileage I've gotten vs. recommended changes, I can afford to change cassette, chain and chain ring and still be in the green Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osiris Posted November 13, 2018 Share I need a recommendation on a place to buy a sram cassette. I currently have a x01 11 speed and to replace it with an x01 is going to be costly.Mine will need replacing soon. Any advice on online retailers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shebeen Posted November 13, 2018 Share I never had the diligence to stick to this plan, but it made sense to meall figures here are thumbsuck, but just to explain the principle. new drivetrain,buy 2 spare chains.Swap the chains over once a month/every 300km. assuming consistent ridingafter 3 months yourchains would be on say 0.1% wear eachafter 6 months your chains would be on say 0.2% wear each. you've been riding 6 months and your cassette has only been exposed to 0.2% worn chain. if you just rode with one chain, after 6 months you'd now be at say about 0.6% wear and you can replace that chain..sure you're only on your second chain, but your cassette has been exposed to 0.6%worn chain and will be in a much worse state than the one that kept on swapping chains once a month. The rule then was to replace the cassette and chains once all three chains got to 0.5% ****has anyone done this?i would guess it makes a bit of a difference with 1x systems but the principle is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 13, 2018 Share In theory if you replace chains before the 0.5% mark your cassette will keep going forever. In practice not so much unfortunately. That said, one of our shop bikes has a 5 year old GX cassette on it that's been ridden plenty and is still perfect - chain's just been replaced again with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudLark Posted November 13, 2018 Share What not a lot of people seem to appreciate is that, operated in the correct conditions, a chain can last practically forever. Think for example of chains that are run in sealed oil baths. What really kills a chain is the wear and tear between the roller and the pin, which is caused primarily by lack of lubrication and dirt which acts as an abrasive. If a chain is maintained more or less on an ongoing basis in such a manner that it is thoroughly cleaned and that lubrication is replaced (especially the lubrication between the roller and the pin), that chain should last for a very long time. For this reason, I have never been a fan of the "wax it regularly and forget it" philosophy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosebay Posted November 13, 2018 Share I ride an old 9 spd - my commute is relatively flat but does include a 1km of rocky sections and a fair amount of sand I do a twice weekly loop which entails a fair amount of techy climbing and descending These are the stats of my last 3 cassettes and chains I have bought second hand (XT and SRAM red casettes- I buy the cassette and chain together). I also chainged the chainring at 60150, was also second hand. Normally pay about R300 for the combo. Last one free . the distance on cas and chain is the distance I got and the wear was what I measured before I put it on. total distance distance on cas and chain chain wear54709km 3480km +1.0%60150km 5441km 0.75%66551km 6401km 0.75% Editing trying to get tables to work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted November 13, 2018 Share The thing is chain wrap on the cassette plays a big role in determining whether a cassette is still usable. A 50T cassette (MTB)is going to have twice as many teeth in mesh with the chain compared to a 25T cassette (road). So the same criteria for determining a suitable replacement point for the 50T and25T is going to be different.0.5% chain wear for MTB 1x 11 or 120.75% chain wear for road 11-25 or 11- 28/30/32 cassettes seems to be reasonable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me rida my bicycle Posted November 13, 2018 Share I bought 2 xx1 chains with my xx1 cassette as I was told 0.75 you need to replace chain and I have done about 1000km plus on the first one and it measures pretty much the same as new cassette has broken a tooth somewhere which I noticed when cleaning it a couple of weeks ago bought a new cassette because I thought it's gonna jump but it hasn't missed a beat shifts super smooth no jumping nothing. But I do clean and lube drive regularly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehosefat Posted November 13, 2018 Share The thing is chain wrap on the cassette plays a big role in determining whether a cassette is still usable. A 50T cassette (MTB)is going to have twice as many teeth in mesh with the chain compared to a 25T cassette (road). So the same criteria for determining a suitable replacement point for the 50T and25T is going to be different.0.5% chain wear for MTB 1x 11 or 120.75% chain wear for road 11-25 or 11- 28/30/32 cassettes seems to be reasonable But why would you only look at the biggest cog? The smallest half of the MTB casette would have the same number of teeth in contact as the Road cassette... besides, surely the most wear would occur on the cog that gets used the most which is not likely to be the one on either extreme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin PJ Posted November 14, 2018 Share With this approach, how many chains do you go through before you replace the cassette typically?With road the cassettes pretty much last forever, worn out some that are 10 years old. With MTB about 3 chains. Doesn't seem to matter what you do, the MTB cassettes wear out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJR Posted November 14, 2018 Share My (much better) solution, is to have so many bikes that I can NEVER wear out a chain or a cassette by just rotating bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted November 14, 2018 Share But why would you only look at the biggest cog? The smallest half of the MTB casette would have the same number of teeth in contact as the Road cassette... besides, surely the most wear would occur on the cog that gets used the most which is not likely to be the one on either extremeThe more teeth in mesh the more the wear is exaggerated. For example 0.1 mm over 5teeth is 0.5mm but over 10 teeth is 1mm . That 1mm means the chain rides high in the teeth from 6 to 10th tooth accelerating the wear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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