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Posted

Hi all

 

So got to decide on spokes, like DT Swiss, but noticed they also have some different product ranges, ie:

 

Champion

Competition

 

looking at a double butted, 2.0/1.8/2.0

 

All comments/experiences welcome, good and bad,

 

G

Posted

Can't go wrong with DT. I wanted DT when I built my tandem wheels last year but they(local suppliers) couldn't get short enough for me(rear wheel is a 88 profile and my DT tandem hubs have a big flange so my spokes are 219mm long), So I ended up going with these pillar spokes as it was a recommended by a wheel builder. So far am happy with them. 

Posted

Hi all

 

So got to decide on spokes, like DT Swiss, but noticed they also have some different product ranges, ie:

 

Champion

Competition

 

looking at a double butted, 2.0/1.8/2.0

 

All comments/experiences welcome, good and bad,

 

G

 

DT Swiss comp 2.0 - 1.8 spokes is the go-to spokes for most applications. I use Comp mostly, additionally I use brass nipples.

If you have time it's worth importing the spokes and parts via Starbike.com at half the local price. Additional 19% discount on website price for VAT exemption. Only pay VAT this side.  ;)  

 

Let us know which rims and hubs you are using, and spoke count with lacing pattern?.  :) 

And what application? ie. Enduro, XC, downhill, etc? 

Posted

I have built several wheels (road & mtb) using the Alpina spokes from Rapide.  The wheels have done 1000's of km's with no issues.  They cost a fraction of what the DT Swiss spokes cost.

Posted

Chris King ISO - Boost front and rear.

Pyga Marathon X29er Carbon rims, ERD:600

2 cross

Mostly Marathon type, but also some Thaba Technical.

 

hmmm:

If you have time it's worth importing the spokes and parts via Starbike.com at half the local price. Additional 19% discount on website price for VAT exemption. Only pay VAT this side

 

Might very well be a idea...

 

G

DT Swiss comp 2.0 - 1.8 spokes is the go-to spokes for most applications. I use Comp mostly, additionally I use brass nipples.

If you have time it's worth importing the spokes and parts via Starbike.com at half the local price. Additional 19% discount on website price for VAT exemption. Only pay VAT this side.  ;)  

 

Let us know which rims and hubs you are using, and spoke count with lacing pattern?.  :) 

And what application? ie. Enduro, XC, downhill, etc? 

Posted

My two cents - If you are going for 2/1.8/2 it is not worth importing spokes yourself unless you are looking for lengths that you can't get here.  Any of the good brands that use Sandvik steel - and that is all of them - are fine.  Sapim, Pillar, WTB, Wheelsmith, DT Swiss and Alpina.  Pick on price and availability.  Brass nipples are a must.  If your hubs are J bend go 3 cross.

Posted

My two cents - If you are going for 2/1.8/2 it is not worth importing spokes yourself unless you are looking for lengths that you can't get here.  Any of the good brands that use Sandvik steel - and that is all of them - are fine.  Sapim, Pillar, WTB, Wheelsmith, DT Swiss and Alpina.  Pick on price and availability.  Brass nipples are a must.  If your hubs are J bend go 3 cross.

Your 2 cents is worth a lot more than 2 cents...............

Posted

I have built several wheels (road & mtb) using the Alpina spokes from Rapide.  The wheels have done 1000's of km's with no issues.  They cost a fraction of what the DT Swiss spokes cost.

Good to hear a vote for Alpina - just built up a 27.5 wheel set using their bladed spokes - 5g a pop and R12 ea. 

Posted

Can I ask,

 

please have a look at the 2 attached diagrams and the attached pdf, first 2 lines are the Chris King ISO Boost hub specs and confirm I entered the values at the correct places.

 

G

 

It looks good ;) , may I ask why you decided to go 2 cross? 

Also, check whether your rim is asymmetrical and double check the ERD, you might need to make an adjustment.

The ERD specified with rims are not always correct for spoke calculation.  ^_^ 

Posted

These rims have been running 2 cross for 3 years on my Stage, I'm building the rims over onto these new hubs ready for the MOBU.

 

They were originally build 2 cross by Grant and been happy with them,

 

Will measure/confirm the ERD.

 

G

 

It looks good ;) , may I ask why you decided to go 2 cross? 

Also, check whether your rim is asymmetrical and double check the ERD, you might need to make an adjustment.

The ERD specified with rims are not always correct for spoke calculation.  ^_^ 

Posted

These rims have been running 2 cross for 3 years on my Stage, I'm building the rims over onto these new hubs ready for the MOBU.

 

They were originally build 2 cross by Grant and been happy with them,

 

Will measure/confirm the ERD.

 

G

 

It’s been interesting following your decision on 2 cross lacing. According to a paper by HP Gavin (link below), 2 cross is higher in lateral stiffness and 3 cross higher in tangential stiffness. I guess I have never really questioned 3 cross - as for road cycling that is what you want: crisp acceleration and (now) disc braking - ie. tangential stiffness. I’ve always just laced 3 cross on 32 hole as a rule.

 

But in MTB you might want the wheel to have lateral stiffness for riding DH and technical single-track?

 

Interesting also to note that the gain in lateral stiffness is much smaller between 2 vs 3 cross, but the loss in tangential stiffness is quite significant going 2 vs 3 cross.

 

http://people.duke.edu/~hpgavin/papers/HPGavin-Wheel-Paper.pdf

 

Never the less, there is as many very high-end manufacturers using both 2 and 3 cross in both applications.  :) 

And unless we are in the same class as Andre Greipel or Greg Minnaar we will never be able to really test the limits of the difference in any case  :ph34r:  :) 

post-20017-0-69544400-1575370246_thumb.jpg

post-20017-0-18831500-1575370256_thumb.jpg

Posted

:) glad it's been a interesting discussion.

 

G

 

It’s been interesting following your decision on 2 cross lacing. According to a paper by HP Gavin (link below), 2 cross is higher in lateral stiffness and 3 cross higher in tangential stiffness. I guess I have never really questioned 3 cross - as for road cycling that is what you want: crisp acceleration and (now) disc braking - ie. tangential stiffness. I’ve always just laced 3 cross on 32 hole as a rule.

 

But in MTB you might want the wheel to have lateral stiffness for riding DH and technical single-track?

 

Interesting also to note that the gain in lateral stiffness is much smaller between 2 vs 3 cross, but the loss in tangential stiffness is quite significant going 2 vs 3 cross.

 

http://people.duke.edu/~hpgavin/papers/HPGavin-Wheel-Paper.pdf

 

Never the less, there is as many very high-end manufacturers using both 2 and 3 cross in both applications.  :) 

And unless we are in the same class as Andre Greipel or Greg Minnaar we will never be able to really test the limits of the difference in any case  :ph34r:  :) 

Posted

It’s been interesting following your decision on 2 cross lacing. According to a paper by HP Gavin (link below), 2 cross is higher in lateral stiffness and 3 cross higher in tangential stiffness. I guess I have never really questioned 3 cross - as for road cycling that is what you want: crisp acceleration and (now) disc braking - ie. tangential stiffness. I’ve always just laced 3 cross on 32 hole as a rule.

 

But in MTB you might want the wheel to have lateral stiffness for riding DH and technical single-track?

 

Interesting also to note that the gain in lateral stiffness is much smaller between 2 vs 3 cross, but the loss in tangential stiffness is quite significant going 2 vs 3 cross.

 

http://people.duke.edu/~hpgavin/papers/HPGavin-Wheel-Paper.pdf

 

Never the less, there is as many very high-end manufacturers using both 2 and 3 cross in both applications.  :) 

And unless we are in the same class as Andre Greipel or Greg Minnaar we will never be able to really test the limits of the difference in any case  :ph34r:  :) 

 

2x is stiffer, 3x is more durable. 

 

Take your pick.

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