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Posted

The only other issue I can think of is that your chainline is out. If this is the case you might benefit from running the chainring on the outside of your crank (i.e. in the old 'big ring' position).

 

As a way to find a solution, if you completely disconnect the gear cable from the deraileur the chain should run in the number 1 gear position. Solve for why this doesn't work before you connect the gear cable again.

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Posted

Take photos of the issue and post them please. it should work just fine.

 

Especially if this was working in the 3x10 arrangement. The deraileur has less to do now than it previously had to take care of.

 

Possibly it is installed badly on the hangar (I know, seems too obvious)

 

Edit: A hanger extender will drop your deraileur away from the cassette to allow you to get it underneath a large "granny gear" sprocket, but it does slightly reduce the chain wrap on the smaller sprockets (resulting in slower/sloppy shifting for the smallest gears). If you can already get down to the granny gear then there is nothing to gain by adding a hanger extender.

 

Attaching some images of the cassette. I am not sure if the wear looks excessive?

 

Also of the bike in 1st and last gear as well as the chain-lines in both gears.

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Posted

The chain is too short.

 

I know it does seem like it is too short when on the largest sprocket, but the weird part is that it is super loose on the smallest sprocket.

Posted

I know it does seem like it is too short when on the largest sprocket, but the weird part is that it is super loose on the smallest sprocket.

I thought maybe it looks too long? Have you sized it correctly?

 

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing

 

I know when I set mine up I had issues getting the chain length correct, playing with a derailleur  extender (which I didn't need) and adjusting the B screw too far. If you have someone close by that knows what they're doing and is happy to help, it makes life easier. I couldn't believe how simple it was once I someone else helped me hands-on.

Posted (edited)

If you take the chain off is that derailer free to move and spring back evenly all through the gears?

Edited by Mojoman
Posted (edited)

My 2 cents. I believe it is a combination of a too short chain and a clutch issue. The clutch thing is a known issue with Shimano. There is a description and fix below;

 

https://crankjoy.com/review-update-shimano-xt-8100-arising-issue/

You do realise what you linked is new 12 speed specific lol? The 10/11 speeds do not have this issue.

 

Op. The chain is not too short. Looks fine...especially if you did it according to the parktool video of roughly big ring in the back, sidestep jockey wheels then the plus 2 full links over the front. The derailleur should be taking up way more slack in the bottom cog. ChecK that it is fixed in the right place on the hanger too. The little nib in the hanger needs to butt up against the matching one on the derailure. Then B screw needs to be turned out.

 

Edit: i also see you have a Kalbo extender ring in the back. Worst case your rear mech does not have the range for a 40T in 1x. A wolftooth/rapide goatlink will solve that specific problem

Edited by morneS555
Posted

I exceeded the recommended range on my RD, that's why I thought I needed the extender, but turned out that if it can shift into the 40 without the extender, than you don't need it.

Posted (edited)

I exceeded the recommended range on my RD, that's why I thought I needed the extender, but turned out that if it can shift into the 40 without the extender, than you don't need it.

Except in OPs case the extra lenght of the chain in the 40T means when he is right at the bottom...the der is not taking up the extra slack. The link puts the rear mech in a different spot so that it helps on both ends. Being able to shift into the big cog is only half the problem in some combinations. Chainring size also plays a role.

 

I slso still ride a 10 speed rear mech (Short cage saint) and that also has 36T max...which i believe because On the 11T there is barely a ballhair left in the b screw to take up the slack

Edited by morneS555
Posted

You do realise what you linked is new 12 speed specific lol? The 10/11 speeds do not have this issue.

 

Op. The chain is not too short. Looks fine...especially if you did it according to the parktool video of roughly big ring in the back, sidestep jockey wheels then the plus 2 full links over the front. The derailleur should be taking up way more slack in the bottom cog. ChecK that it is fixed in the right place on the hanger too. The little nib in the hanger needs to butt up against the matching one on the derailure. Then B screw needs to be turned out.

 

Edit: i also see you have a Kalbo extender ring in the back. Worst case your rear mech does not have the range for a 40T in 1x. A wolftooth/rapide goatlink will solve that specific problem

The issue is on the 11 speed rear derailleur too, i know the article refers to 12 speed, but I have mates who have had the same issue on 11 speed. To me it is the only reason why there is slack when on the smallest sprocket.

Posted (edited)

Its an easy check OP.

 

If you still have the cog you swopoed out yo put that 40T in there...put it back and try it with 36T max. All things being equal im relatively sure it will take up all the slack in the 11t then. If not, then only i will consider opening up the clutch. It could be, but I doubt it’s that. The 10 speed ones have an o-ring in there.

Edited by morneS555
Posted (edited)

You lot seem to have forgotten where 10spd derailleurs used to sit in the bottom cog haha. They dont go all the way back like the 50T 11/12spd stuff. The look like that in the bottom cog on a normal setup????????

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Edited by morneS555

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