Degreaser and Forks. Be warned

[thebob]

A little cautionary tale from my experience this week. I washed my bike, using the same bike wash I have used for ages. Sprayed it on, cleaned the bike off with a brush and water and then rinsed it with the hose. As I was feeling a bit hungry, I went inside for a bit of lunch before drying it. Came back 15 minutes later and started to dry it off. I noticed what appeared to be a water mark on the one fork stanchion where the o-ring was when I was washing it. Turns out it was no water mark and is actually where the cleaner and water had collected around it and eaten a slight groove into the anodising of the stanchion. Upon further investigation I can actually feel an increase in seal drag when the fork moves over this part of the stanchion and so will be ponying up for a new CSU. Luckily the local distributor had one, which is on its way to me. From now on, I'm also only using car shampoo in the bike

[JBK]

A little cautionary tale from my experience this week. I washed my bike, using the same bike wash I have used for ages. Sprayed it on, cleaned the bike off with a brush and water and then rinsed it with the hose. As I was feeling a bit hungry, I went inside for a bit of lunch before drying it. Came back 15 minutes later and started to dry it off. I noticed what appeared to be a water mark on the one fork stanchion where the o-ring was when I was washing it. Turns out it was no water mark and is actually where the cleaner and water had collected around it and eaten a slight groove into the anodising of the stanchion. Upon further investigation I can actually feel an increase in seal drag when the fork moves over this part of the stanchion and so will be ponying up for a new CSU. Luckily the local distributor had one, which is on its way to me. From now on, I'm also only using car shampoo in the bike

Was this cleaner "corrosive" ? I do not understand how a non corrosive cleaner / degreaser could have done this...

[TNT1]

bike wash 

Please post brand.

[DR ◣◢]

That’s a very very corrosive cleaner that I assume needs to be diluted.

 

I’ve used Dirt Nurse for years with zero issues when diluted correctly and even concentrated where the bike was really dirty.

 

I cringe when people use just any cleaners on their bikes.

[JBK]

Please post brand.

I don't think it's right / fair to post the brand name before contacting the supplier first for comment....

 

If it's not a non-corrosive then it shouldn't be used anywhere near a bike anyway.

[TNT1]

I don't think it's right / fair to post the brand name before contacting the supplier first for comment....

 

If it's not a non-corrosive then it shouldn't be used anywhere near a bike anyway.

Ok.

 

I wasn't asking to **** on them.

 

I was asking what the hell the guy used that can destroy anodizing in 15 minutes, cause I'd guess the product had nothing to do with it, and he simply and coincidentally noticed wear at the same time.

[JBK]

That’s a very very corrosive cleaner that I assume needs to be diluted.

 

I’ve used Dirt Nurse for years with zero issues when diluted correctly and even concentrated where the bike was really dirty.

 

I cringe when people use just any cleaners on their bikes.

Some brands are corrosive and some are not, irrespective of the dilution / concentration...

 

Cleen Green for example, has sodium hydroxide, hence its definitely not a non-corrosive and it goes nowhere near my house...

 

I agree with you completely how ridiculous it is that so many people use, anything, to wash their bikes that cost up to R200k, even dishwashing liquid...

[JBK]

Ok.

 

I wasn't asking to **** on them.

 

I was asking what the hell the guy used that can destroy anodizing in 15 minutes, cause I'd guess the product had nothing to do with it, and he simply and coincidentally noticed wear at the same time.

I agree with you exactly so if he quotes the brand, it's gonna cause harm to the brand.

 

If he used something that's corrosive, then post the name for sure because it should not have been used on the bike in the first place.

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

I believe any bio-degradable soap or cleaner is safe.
Is this an accurate assumption?

[madmarc]

A little cautionary tale from my experience this week. I washed my bike, using the same bike wash I have used for ages. Sprayed it on, cleaned the bike off with a brush and water and then rinsed it with the hose. As I was feeling a bit hungry, I went inside for a bit of lunch before drying it. Came back 15 minutes later and started to dry it off. I noticed what appeared to be a water mark on the one fork stanchion where the o-ring was when I was washing it. Turns out it was no water mark and is actually where the cleaner and water had collected around it and eaten a slight groove into the anodising of the stanchion. Upon further investigation I can actually feel an increase in seal drag when the fork moves over this part of the stanchion and so will be ponying up for a new CSU. Luckily the local distributor had one, which is on its way to me. From now on, I'm also only using car shampoo in the bike

 

Wouldn't new stanchions from Robbies been cheaper than a new CSU ?

[Furbz]

i've been using diluted clean green for years....

no issues at all.

that said i have never left it on the bike. rather a sponge bath over the frame and parts followed by a proper spray off.

never had any issues

[Butterbean]

I've stopped using any chemistry on the bike. Honestly, it comes clean with a wet cloth and to be fair, no chemistry helps the wax and grease on drivetrain bits.

 

After having brake pistons get stuck, issues with bearings, etc, nothing with any kind of degreasing action goes near it, even car wash products.

 

Water on the frame and bits, dry cloth to clean the drivetrain parts, and Ultrasonic for the chain. Any particularly grubby spots get a harder wipe with the cloth and it removes greases and messes. Have had so much less trauma and cleaning is also quicker than when I used to use soap on the bike!

[thebob]

I do dilute the cleaner, plus minus 50/50. Won't be naming the brand either, but I will be in contact with them to make them aware of what happened. It is marketed specifically as a bike wash, so maybe they need to look at the formulation or maybe I was just unlucky

[StevieG]

Some brands are corrosive and some are not, irrespective of the dilution / concentration...

 

Cleen Green for example, has sodium hydroxide, hence its definitely not a non-corrosive and it goes nowhere near my house...

 

I agree with you completely how ridiculous it is that so many people use, anything, to wash their bikes that cost up to R200k, even dishwashing liquid...

 

Please excuse my ignorance, but is there any reason we can't use dishwashing liquid? Have been using it to wash my bike all the time and haven't had any issues yet. Thought it was the least caustic of any cleaning solution

[JBK]

i've been using diluted clean green for years....

no issues at all.

that said i have never left it on the bike. rather a sponge bath over the frame and parts followed by a proper spray off.

never had any issues

Eish... have you read the MSDS for Clean Green..? Everyone used to use it for everything but now there's other products that work just as well if not better, without the corrosive chemicals and are better for the environment...

 

In the original post, he says he did rinse the bike before taking a break and that the damage was done during washing...

 

Personally, I use ecologic, non toxic, non corrosive cleaner / disinfectant / degreaser for my bikes (cars) and drive train (in different concentrations) - my wife now also uses it in place of almost everything else for the house, kitchen, bathrooms, etc.

 

https://stealthhealth.co.za/ecologic/

[thebob]

Wouldn't new stanchions from Robbies been cheaper than a new CSU ?

Been down that route with fork legs for a motorcycle. OEM or nothing. The aftermarket stuff is never as good when it comes to suspension