Scalpel gurus please

[Prince Albert Cycles]

I need to fit a side swing direct mount front derailleur on a pre Ocho Scalpel . Shimano 2 x 11 group.

The frame has 2 horizontal fixing points on the seatpost, one a bit recessed.

Which of the zillion fd’s out there will work …and where to get.

thanks

 

 

Edited August 26, 2022 by Prince Albert Cycles

[letsride]

https://si.shimano.com/en/ev/FD-M8000-3883

The E-Type one

Edited August 26, 2022 by letsride

[ChunkyMonkey]

28 minutes ago, Prince Albert Cycles said:

I need to fit a side swing direct mount front derailleur on a pre Ocho Scalpel . Shimano 2 x 11 group.

The frame has 2 horizontal fixing points on the seatpost, one a bit recessed

You’ll need SRAM Type S3…

or Shimano e-type…

 

 

 

[droo]

Low direct mount should do the job.

[RobertWhitehead]

I am sure that I will have one of those paper weights lying here if you're looking. 

[DieselnDust]

4 hours ago, Prince Albert Cycles said:

I need to fit a side swing direct mount front derailleur on a pre Ocho Scalpel . Shimano 2 x 11 group.

The frame has 2 horizontal fixing points on the seatpost, one a bit recessed.

Which of the zillion fd’s out there will work …and where to get.

thanks

 

 

On the seatpost? The scalpel 29er and Sclapel Si both fit the type shown in Droo’s post. The last scalpel to fit the front derailleur to the seat tube was the 2012 scalpel which was a 26er.

the 29er scalpel had the fd mount integrated onto the lower pivot. 
 

which scalpel is it?

[Prince Albert Cycles]

My mistake . Fd mount not on seatpost but on lower pivot mount . Bought the frame and fork as 2018 model but saw later that 2018 Scalpel came with Ocho fork and this had the pre Ocho fork so I suppose it is a 2017 .

[Prince Albert Cycles]

2 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said:

I am sure that I will have one of those paper weights lying here if you're looking. 

Yes am looking pse 

[CARANXCycleMobile]

I can also help with one....shimano or sram i'll have

[DieselnDust]

22 hours ago, Prince Albert Cycles said:

My mistake . Fd mount not on seatpost but on lower pivot mount . Bought the frame and fork as 2018 model but saw later that 2018 Scalpel came with Ocho fork and this had the pre Ocho fork so I suppose it is a 2017 .

ok so it s a Scalpel Si which has the FD mount on the chainstay. The 2017, 2018 and 2019 models were fitted with Lefty 2.0 XLR OR Lefty 2.0 PBR. I'd actually advice against mounting a front derailleur on this model frame. The FD actually swings up and down as the suspension moves and makes reliable front shifting a bit ....interesting. It was a bike they intended to launch without FD capability then hacked a mount late in the design phase.

[JacBrand]

https://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/cannondale-scalpel-29er-front-derailleur-spacer-kp211

This it the part you are looking for. The derailleur is fixed to it.

[Prince Albert Cycles]

18 hours ago, DieselnDust said:

ok so it s a Scalpel Si which has the FD mount on the chainstay. The 2017, 2018 and 2019 models were fitted with Lefty 2.0 XLR OR Lefty 2.0 PBR. I'd actually advice against mounting a front derailleur on this model frame. The FD actually swings up and down as the suspension moves and makes reliable front shifting a bit ....interesting. It was a bike they intended to launch without FD capability then hacked a mount late in the design phase.

Eisch..should have been aware of this before my parts spending but thanks

[Jbr]

Reviving the scalpel gurus thread here : I currently have a stages 175 hollowgram crank with a stages non drive side power meter that I don't trust at all (overnight the calibration offset was way off from the manufacturer bracket, and it's been consistently at the same level since, and since then the reading seem a bit random, sometimes seems quite optimistic, sometimes the opposite. Not great for confidence)

Anyways, I'm looking for solutions here, I could go the spider way, and keep my current crank. Probably the best "weight wise". But I'm not of fan of the idea of having 172.5 on two out of three bikes. I don't know if it's the *** power meter but the last few rides I did on the MTB I felt *** compared to my other bikes... Maybe it was just under reading, maybe the difference in crank and fit made it hard...

I could go for power pedals, but Rally 100 are nearly 500g and pricey. Sucks to have a top of the range high mod cannondale and anchor pedals on it.

Last solution would be to go for a full power crankset, problem is MTB specific cranks come in 170 or 175 (Xcadey, quarq...). I've found a power2max on the hub that is 172.5, but two things on my mind :

- the small one is the 104 BCD, meaning it's going to be almost MTB only, unless I get a custom CSIXX 44/46T ring made if I want to put it on the gravel bike later

- the bigger on is the offset : scalpels seem a bit funny when it comes to offsets. Out of the box I already had issues, where on the XTR AND AXS I'd have it work smoothly on only half the cassette the second the drivetrain is dirty i'd start having noises or worse on the upper side of the cassette..

Non drive side crankarm is a no go, Stages products I had nothing but issues with, and unfortunately 4iiii doesn't do hollowgram, and I'm not willing to buy a new crankset to end up again with 175 (XTR for eg).

Thoughts ? What should I do to keep the bike relatively light, is it worth trying to get all bikes at 172.5 ?

Edited February 24, 2023 by Jbr

[DieselnDust]

24 minutes ago, Jbr said:

Reviving the scalpel gurus thread here : I currently have a stages 175 hollowgram crank with a stages non drive side power meter that I don't trust at all (overnight the calibration offset was way off from the manufacturer bracket, and it's been consistently at the same level since, and since then the reading seem a bit random, sometimes seems quite optimistic, sometimes the opposite. Not great for confidence)

Anyways, I'm looking for solutions here, I could go the spider way, and keep my current crank. Probably the best "weight wise". But I'm not of fan of the idea of having 172.5 on two out of three bikes. I don't know if it's the *** power meter but the last few rides I did on the MTB I felt *** compared to my other bikes... Maybe it was just under reading, maybe the difference in crank and fit made it hard...

I could go for power pedals, but Rally 100 are nearly 500g and pricey. Sucks to have a top of the range high mod cannondale and anchor pedals on it.

Last solution would be to go for a full power crankset, problem is MTB specific cranks come in 170 or 175 (Xcadey, quarq...). I've found a power2max on the hub that is 172.5, but two things on my mind :

- the small one is the 104 BCD, meaning it's going to be almost MTB only, unless I get a custom CSIXX 44/46T ring made if I want to put it on the gravel bike later

- the bigger on is the offset : scalpels seem a bit funny when it comes to offsets. Out of the box I already had issues, where on the XTR AND AXS I'd have it work smoothly on only half the cassette the second the drivetrain is dirty i'd start having noises or worse on the upper side of the cassette..

Non drive side crankarm is a no go, Stages products I had nothing but issues with, and unfortunately 4iiii doesn't do hollowgram, and I'm not willing to buy a new crankset to end up again with 175 (XTR for eg).

Thoughts ? What should I do to keep the bike relatively light, is it worth trying to get all bikes at 172.5 ?

Joh,…tough customer….

 

if you want to replace the stages your best option is a Power2max for hollowgram cranks. Yes it’s going to be 104bcd but then so are all elder bases units. 
quarq will not work. Unless you want to buy two cranksets. The 55mm chainline Quarq dub pm is not yet available.

to stay 172.5mm rotor is your only option , the 166q factor unit that delivers just enough chainstay clearance. 
 

habing been down the road of pm for 2017-2020 scalpel Ai power2max is your best and least troublesome option.

 

but first make sure your stages pod is not coming unbonded  from the crank arm. This does happen as the glue can only handle exposure to solvents for a fix period of time. 
also make sure ( if your Hollowgram crank is the Si or SiSL model) that the crank arms are not coming unbonded. This is rare but again it has happened in this imperfect world.

 

[Jbr]

8 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:

if you want to replace the stages your best option is a Power2max for hollowgram cranks. Yes it’s going to be 104bcd but then so are all elder bases units. 

 

but first make sure your stages pod is not coming unbonded  from the crank arm. This does happen as the glue can only handle exposure to solvents for a fix period of time. 
also make sure ( if your Hollowgram crank is the Si or SiSL model) that the crank arms are not coming unbonded. This is rare but again it has happened in this imperfect world.

 

1) so that means keeping my current 175 ?

2) I'll go take pic of why I believe my stages has gone drunk

[Kom]

21 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:

Joh,…tough customer….

 

if you want to replace the stages your best option is a Power2max for hollowgram cranks. Yes it’s going to be 104bcd but then so are all elder bases units. 
quarq will not work. Unless you want to buy two cranksets. The 55mm chainline Quarq dub pm is not yet available.

to stay 172.5mm rotor is your only option , the 166q factor unit that delivers just enough chainstay clearance. 
 

habing been down the road of pm for 2017-2020 scalpel Ai power2max is your best and least troublesome option.

 

but first make sure your stages pod is not coming unbonded  from the crank arm. This does happen as the glue can only handle exposure to solvents for a fix period of time. 
also make sure ( if your Hollowgram crank is the Si or SiSL model) that the crank arms are not coming unbonded. This is rare but again it has happened in this imperfect world.

 

Vouching for Power2Max, really reliable.

Calibrates itself, never need to do this from bike computer etc.