Yet another tubeless conversion question

[Piernas Flacas]

Hey guys, is one supposed to remove the rubber strip that protects the spoke nipples before installing the tape or should it be left there? Thanks!

[Barry]

1 minute ago, Piernas Flacas said:

Hey guys, is one supposed to remove the rubber strip that protects the spoke nipples before installing the tape or should it be left there? Thanks!

Removing it gives the tape more rim surface to stick to. Unless rim is tubeless ready then leave it.

[Piernas Flacas]

3 minutes ago, Barry said:

Removing it gives the tape more rim surface to stick to. Unless rim is tubeless ready then leave it.

Yes, it's tubeless ready. Thanks, Barry!

[Barry]

8 minutes ago, Piernas Flacas said:

Yes, it's tubeless ready. Thanks, 

Maybe post a pic of the rim. Most factory tubeless ready rims have a nice solid seal. 

[Andreas_187]

I'm pretty sure that rubber band is there to protect your inner tube. Remove it and replace with tape for tubeless 

[Piernas Flacas]

56 minutes ago, Barry said:

Maybe post a pic of the rim. Most factory tubeless ready rims have a nice solid seal. 

 

3 minutes ago, Andreas_187 said:

I'm pretty sure that rubber band is there to protect your inner tube. Remove it and replace with tape for tubeless 

I have taped them already on top of the rubber. Thanks for your comments!

[Piernas Flacas]

Hey guys!

Right, so here's a follow-up on this.

Part 1

So, as stated before, I did not remove the original protecting tape from the rim for these being tubeless-ready rims. After cleaning the rim with a rag I stuck a new layer of Gorilla tape, which I then trimmed while on the rim to cover only the base of the rim and not the edges (mistake?). Fitted the brand new tyres and poured Enduro seal in through the valves. Re-inflated tyres to 3 bar - not hearing the pop - but making sure that the gap between the rim and the line of the tyre was the same all around. Went for a ride around the block. Result? Tyres not keeping pressure having to stop every 15 min to pump the back tyre up. After many frustrated attempts of re-inflating to a higher 3.5 bar, pouring in more sealant and going for more rides to allow the sealant to find its way through all the nooks and crannies, nope, same issue.  

Part 2

Then I decided to redo the whole thing thinking that trimming the GT was a mistake. This time I removed the original protecting tape because I noticed it was wrinkled and it allowed sealant to go into the nipples anyway and I thought maybe it's preventing the GT to stick properly. I cleaned the rim the best I could but, I must confess, I left some traces of old sealant that I couldn't remove with the rag. Reapplied new GT, not trimming it this time and making sure it stuck to the edges properly. Refitted the tyres, added sealant, pumped to 3 bar, didn't hear the pop, air still leaks. Took the bike to the petrol station thinking maybe with the compressor the tyres will seat and pop, which kind of did but not convincingly. Problem still persists.

What now?

I noticed that in one small section of the tyre the GT is sticking out, however I don't hear any leaks there. I can hear air leaking in a section where the tyre appears to be properly seated, so I'm going to try the following:

- Just open a gap a little bit where the GT is sticking out and try to push it back in

- Apply a bit of silicon grease on the edge of the tyre (which I have done in the past, dunno why I didn't do it this time) to allow the tyre to seat more easily.

- If this doesn't work I will redo the whole thing this time by cleaning the rim with acetone (I read in another post that acetone can be used to remove sealant residue, is this correct?) and maybe also apply a layer of electrical tape on top of the GT, which I read also helps protect the GT.

Do you guys think this will work? Maybe I should try to get a new protecting strip for the nipples and then apply the GT and then electrical tape?

Sorry for the long post. I wanted to give as much detail to you.

TIA

[Barry]

34 minutes ago, Piernas Flacas said:

Hey guys!

Right, so here's a follow-up on this.

Part 1

So, as stated before, I did not remove the original protecting tape from the rim for these being tubeless-ready rims. After cleaning the rim with a rag I stuck a new layer of Gorilla tape, which I then trimmed while on the rim to cover only the base of the rim and not the edges (mistake?). Fitted the brand new tyres and poured Enduro seal in through the valves. Re-inflated tyres to 3 bar - not hearing the pop - but making sure that the gap between the rim and the line of the tyre was the same all around. Went for a ride around the block. Result? Tyres not keeping pressure having to stop every 15 min to pump the back tyre up. After many frustrated attempts of re-inflating to a higher 3.5 bar, pouring in more sealant and going for more rides to allow the sealant to find its way through all the nooks and crannies, nope, same issue.  

Part 2

Then I decided to redo the whole thing thinking that trimming the GT was a mistake. This time I removed the original protecting tape because I noticed it was wrinkled and it allowed sealant to go into the nipples anyway and I thought maybe it's preventing the GT to stick properly. I cleaned the rim the best I could but, I must confess, I left some traces of old sealant that I couldn't remove with the rag. Reapplied new GT, not trimming it this time and making sure it stuck to the edges properly. Refitted the tyres, added sealant, pumped to 3 bar, didn't hear the pop, air still leaks. Took the bike to the petrol station thinking maybe with the compressor the tyres will seat and pop, which kind of did but not convincingly. Problem still persists.

What now?

I noticed that in one small section of the tyre the GT is sticking out, however I don't hear any leaks there. I can hear air leaking in a section where the tyre appears to be properly seated, so I'm going to try the following:

- Just open a gap a little bit where the GT is sticking out and try to push it back in

- Apply a bit of silicon grease on the edge of the tyre (which I have done in the past, dunno why I didn't do it this time) to allow the tyre to seat more easily.

- If this doesn't work I will redo the whole thing this time by cleaning the rim with acetone (I read in another post that acetone can be used to remove sealant residue, is this correct?) and maybe also apply a layer of electrical tape on top of the GT, which I read also helps protect the GT.

Do you guys think this will work? Maybe I should try to get a new protecting strip for the nipples and then apply the GT and then electrical tape?

Sorry for the long post. I wanted to give as much detail to you.

TIA

Remove the tape that protects the nipple holes. Clean the rim with asetone or thiners. Apply 25mm GT you shouldn't need to trim it.

[BruceNotTheBoss]

If it was me... and I'm sure a lot of guys will have there own way, but this is what I found works the best "for me"

After removing the tire, the valve and your old Gorilla Tape then start with "throw away the rest of your GT" Go out and according to your rim width (for a standard MTB rim, get around 24mm), buy a roll of the yellow plastic Stans tape and new sealant by the same name.

Clean your rim with acetone, benzine, elbow grease what ever takes off the excess old sealant from the rim. Cut the start point of your tape at an angle of about 30* and start sticking the tape (from about 90* from the valve hole) pulling it nice and tight and pressing it into the section where the nipples are making sure you get it stuck properly on the flat section as well. The tape might climb up slightly towards the bead but it mustn't go all the way up, if it does then the tape you bought is too wide. Keep doing this an carry on for about 150mm past the start point and again cut the end off at the 30*. Trim a neat hole with your carpet knife around where the valve sits and fit your valve pressing it whilst tightening the retaining nut. I use some sunlight mixture to pull the tire over (I sometimes have to ask my wife to do it if it is too tight ☺️) I prefer pouring the sealant directly into the tire before pulling it over the other side, again using the soapy mixture.  

I have a compressor that I use because you want to get a burst or air. Before connecting it up I remove the valve core (less resistance) and again rub the beading with the soapy mixture. I found that the bead already seats (pop) at about 1.5 bar.

Quickly put back the valve core, pump the tire to the correct pressure and off I go.

Hope this helps

Edited October 18, 2022 by BruceNotTheBoss

[love2fly]

You shouldn't be seeing your GT. Make sure you start with the right width and that its stuck down on a clean rim.I agree in part with the post above...replace the GT with decent rim tape but use the Enduro Seal. I've used it for 2 years hassle free. I fit new tyres without spilling a drop. I get them to seat at the filling station then add sealant and re-pump at home. Ard you shaking your sealant before using?

[Piernas Flacas]

20 minutes ago, love2fly said:

You shouldn't be seeing your GT. Make sure you start with the right width and that its stuck down on a clean rim.I agree in part with the post above...replace the GT with decent rim tape but use the Enduro Seal. I've used it for 2 years hassle free. I fit new tyres without spilling a drop. I get them to seat at the filling station then add sealant and re-pump at home. Ard you shaking your sealant before using?

I used the 25 mm width GT few years ago without trimming and it worked pretty well. I remember some of the GT was also sticking out. Regarding shaking the sealant, yes, I shook it on part 1 of my story BUT, for part 2, I decanted what was in the tyre into a container to be able to reuse it (I'm on a tight budget), and when I put it back to the bottle I notice some of sediment was left behind. This time I'll use brand new. 

[dasilvarsa]

45 minutes ago, Piernas Flacas said:

I used the 25 mm width GT few years ago without trimming and it worked pretty well. I remember some of the GT was also sticking out. Regarding shaking the sealant, yes, I shook it on part 1 of my story BUT, for part 2, I decanted what was in the tyre into a container to be able to reuse it (I'm on a tight budget), and when I put it back to the bottle I notice some of sediment was left behind. This time I'll use brand new. 

Sometimes It's Wise to visit a Major Bike Shop, Credit Card in Hand 🤣

 

Edited October 18, 2022 by dasilvarsa

[Piernas Flacas]

2 minutes ago, dasilvarsa said:

Sometimes It's Wise to visit a Major Bike Shop, Credit Card in Hand 🤣

 

I have considered it but I haven't capitulated just yet. I prefer learning from my mistakes.

[madmarc]

Dude !!! why are you searching for air leaks with your ears - paint the thing with soapy water - at the valve - round the bead - all over the nipples - then use your eyes and you will soon know where it be leaking.

GT is the same as Duct Tape it can be porous so sometimes it works and other times it doesn't - Just go onto the STANS website or university of Utube and see how to select the correct width STANS rim tape and how its mounted. then toodle off to your LBS and get a roll with some stans juice.

Oh and clean the flippen rim with proper stuff - GT leaves residue and glue behind when you rip it off. Leave this stuff for the 4X4 okes its the devils cloth on bikes.

then report back that its sorted and you riding the trails - Yes and consider this an uitkak   

[Barry]

3 hours ago, Piernas Flacas said:

I used the 25 mm width GT few years ago without trimming and it worked pretty well. I remember some of the GT was also sticking out. Regarding shaking the sealant, yes, I shook it on part 1 of my story BUT, for part 2, I decanted what was in the tyre into a container to be able to reuse it (I'm on a tight budget), and when I put it back to the bottle I notice some of sediment was left behind. This time I'll use brand new. 

If you pull the 25mm tape nice and tight it will fit a 24mm rim with nothing sticking out

[Jensie]

I did 3 wheels this weekend. 2 with new tape, 25mm, after putting on tape and valve with a just small enough hole for the valve to go through. fastened valve. poured sealant. then used soapy water that I sprayed along the bead of the tyre.   2 wheels popped with the normal pump, one was leaking so bad you saw bubbles everywhere. took it to the garage and pumped with compressor and wheel popped 3 times and was on. The soapy water will also indicate if the valve is on correctly. The rim take was only in the middle of the wheels and not near the edges.

 

Hope this helped