Pedal thread repair - Pretoria

[Jewbacca]

37 minutes ago, droo said:

Just had a random thought, if both sets of pedals are flats it's possible the cranks are on backwards. It's possible with ebike cranks.

Chainring mounts?

 

[droo]

2 minutes ago, Jewbacca said:

Chainring mounts?

 

On the motor spindle. Cranks are identical aside from the pedal threads.

[madmarc]

52 minutes ago, droo said:

On the motor spindle. Cranks are identical aside from the pedal threads.

OP needs to post pics

[Jewbacca]

1 hour ago, droo said:

On the motor spindle. Cranks are identical aside from the pedal threads.

I'm pretty John Snow when it comes to e-bikes 

If that is the case, then I'd say that the cranks have definitely then been installed on the wrong sides.

From what I've seen they are pretty much an updated version of the old Octa-Link spindle interface so it's an easy thing to do.

[mazambaan]

Apologies; riding, family catch ups and work interfered.  Thanks for the comments and a few things to try. This is the RHS pedal where the "L" can be seen if zoomed in.

Below it is the LHS one, its hex and the "R" can be seen if zoomed in.

I am a worried man.🙈

 

 

 

[droo]

If you can get the pedals out and the threads aren't damaged then the cranks are definitely on backwards, which makes sense since there was work done on the motor. 

There might be markings on the back of the cranks that tell you which side they should be on.

[dave303e]

On 7/5/2024 at 5:15 PM, madmarc said:

I would love to meet that mechanic that was able to thread a L-hand thread into a R-Hand threaded crank and visa versa - The threads should'nt even pick up. If they did then its seriously cross threaded - did you try loosening the L-hand pedal in the wrong direction ? Even cross threaded it should come out but the threads will be toast

Just another point when using a hex wrench depending on where you sitting when loosening the pedal. If you sitting on the drive side loosening the non-drive pedal (kind of working through the frame) with a hex wrench you turn the wrench anticlockwise. With even some good mechanics, they dont grasp the concept

L-hand thread is clockwise to loosen the pedal towards you, so you be sitting facing the pedal

L-hand thread is anti-clockwise to loosen the thread away from you, so you be sitting on the drive side working through or underneath the frame.

Opposite applies for the R-Hand pedal 

 

impact wrench/driver/gun and a steel bolt into an aluminium crank. Probably not as hard to do as we would hope to believe. Torque'd down to 15 ugga duggas...

[Stretched@Birth]

5 hours ago, dave303e said:

impact wrench/driver/gun and a steel bolt into an aluminium crank. Probably not as hard to do as we would hope to believe. Torque'd down to 15 ugga duggas...

If you manage to get that right and have to apply that many Ugga Duggas it may not be hard too do, but you should not be working on a bicycle.  I was taught, if you can't turn the first turn by hand, you should not be applying a spanner.  Check that you're not cross threading, and try again.

I do think though that Droo's explanation is most plausible in this case, the fact that the pedals have not loosened themselves whilst riding, is probably down to too many Ugga Duggas being applied. 

[mazambaan]

Thank you; it seems it is as I feared so I will first make a cautious and polite approach to the LBS that initiated this disaster. Then report in.

[dave303e]

13 hours ago, Stretched@Birth said:

If you manage to get that right and have to apply that many Ugga Duggas it may not be hard too do, but you should not be working on a bicycle.  I was taught, if you can't turn the first turn by hand, you should not be applying a spanner.  Check that you're not cross threading, and try again.

I do think though that Droo's explanation is most plausible in this case, the fact that the pedals have not loosened themselves whilst riding, is probably down to too many Ugga Duggas being applied. 

Look I have seen wilder things in my life, hence I am off the mindset of expect the unexpected.

I once watched a drilling assistant snap 10 bolts in a row using a 1" socket power bar with adaptors down to a 1/4" drive 10mm socket. We sat watching wondering how long he would take to realise he was being a dumba...s but he never did...

I hope for OP's sake Droo's explanation is correct.

[droo]

1 hour ago, dave303e said:

Look I have seen wilder things in my life, hence I am off the mindset of expect the unexpected.

I once watched a drilling assistant snap 10 bolts in a row using a 1" socket power bar with adaptors down to a 1/4" drive 10mm socket. We sat watching wondering how long he would take to realise he was being a dumba...s but he never did...

I hope for OP's sake Droo's explanation is correct.

If you hit your head against the wall often enough the wall will give way, no?

[mazambaan]

On 7/9/2024 at 12:26 PM, droo said:

If you can get the pedals out and the threads aren't damaged then the cranks are definitely on backwards, which makes sense since there was work done on the motor. 

There might be markings on the back of the cranks that tell you which side they should be on.

Great bit of insight; I never thought of that. Before I tear off to the LBS I will try and check for any marks on the cranks as I really hope it is this - sort of seems more likely than the forcing of a RH thread into LH hole unless the "forcer" was severely mechanically retarded; which is not impossible sadly. 

Any idea what sort of marks I should be looking for on the cranks?

[BaGearA]

16 minutes ago, mazambaan said:

Great bit of insight; I never thought of that. Before I tear off to the LBS I will try and check for any marks on the cranks as I really hope it is this - sort of seems more likely than the forcing of a RH thread into LH hole unless the "forcer" was severely mechanically retarded; which is not impossible sadly. 

Any idea what sort of marks I should be looking for on the cranks?

Easiest would be to turn the pedals in the opposite direction , if they loosen easily and tighten easily then confirmed 

[mazambaan]

1 hour ago, BaGearA said:

Easiest would be to turn the pedals in the opposite direction , if they loosen easily and tighten easily then confirmed 

Good thinking and I have tried this now and they don't loosen or tighten "easily", in fact they don't budge at all with my maximum half gorilla power (although I didn't give it everything, just about maximum on a 15 spanner).  Will have another try after wedging the opposite pedal with a bit of timber.

[droo]

If you've hit them with the impact wrench you're going to have a time.

Godspeed.

[ChrisF]

4 hours ago, mazambaan said:

Great bit of insight; I never thought of that. Before I tear off to the LBS I will try and check for any marks on the cranks as I really hope it is this - sort of seems more likely than the forcing of a RH thread into LH hole unless the "forcer" was severely mechanically retarded; which is not impossible sadly. 

Any idea what sort of marks I should be looking for on the cranks?

 

I had a quick look at the cranks on my Giant.

 

There is small print on the inside ... too small for me to read properly in poor light.  Not sure if it is the same on both sides.

 

Certainly did not see the magic "R" or "L" I was hoping for.

 

Okay, not possible to see close to the crank as the motor obscures this view.  Maybe some marking in this area ?