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Lightening MTB


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I went and bought a Merida Sub60-V about 2 months ago. Great bike for someone at my level of MTB'ing. However, after riding with Marius the other day I realized my bike could do with a bit of lightening (It weighs 13.7kg!)

Heres a list of the components. What could I replace to make it lighter. What would be the best to replace to make it lose weight.


FORK RST Gila TNL 90 Lockout
DERAILLEUR Shimano Deore
SHIFTER Shimano Deore rapidfire
CHAINWHEEL Shimano M442 44-32-22
BB SET Shimano LP28
HUB Shimano Deore
SPOKES Stainless Silver
RIM Double Wall Black/Brush
FREEWHEEL Shimano HG50-9 11-32
TIRE C1455 2.1
HANDLE BAR XM Speed Flat 600
STEM XM Speed 15
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Hey Fandacious...


Ja - tough one this... Trickiest part is figuring out where most of the weight sits... I've been trying the same on my ride... Sometimes you get the weight down - but then upgrade another component, only to have the weight pop up again...


AND YES - MTB's are not supposed to be weight-weenies - but still, it's part of my fun to try and get my ride as light as possible (together with a sensible diet plan, of course Embarrassed)...


My advice will no doubt be corrected by those who know a bit more about this, but essentially, on the small parts, like the front mech and brake levers etc, you're not really going to be making a massive change. Sometimes the weight difference might only be 10-30 grams... Now I know it all adds up - but not necessarily by much...


The problem however, is that often you find that the supposedly "low-end" products often weigh less than the high-end stuff - due to the latter being built stronger... [i have a entry level Truvativ Blaze crankset on mine, that according to the respective websites, weighs in at 715g, vs the XT Hollowtech at 860g]. 


Ideally, you should try and find out what your frame weighs, which would then give you and idea of how much weight you have left to work with... The single biggest items with which you can save weight on, remains the shock, the wheelset [don't underestimate how much heavier tubeless might be], and possibly your crankset...


Looking at your specs - you could probably get quite a bit lighter than your steel pedals, and all of your seatpost, saddle, stem and handlebar could possibly be on the heavy side... I say 'possibly', since again, for example, your alloy seatpost might not be very strong, and might thus weigh in quite a bit lighter than a more top-end post...


So I guess, in conclusion - I have'nt really helped you? EmbarrassedConfused


What it all boils down to, unfortunately, is that to gain a significant weight loss on your bike - either look at yourself (as in, like me, too much beer during rugby games) or consider investing in a more expensive, and thereby lighter frame...


If you are determined to try - weigh as many of your own components yourself as you possibly can - though this would involve plenty of effort, particularly if you're not clued up with removal and re-attachment of bike componentry... The web, in my experience, gives widely varying results that are not necessarily accurate... And then - do not take as gospel whatever your lbs tells you about the weight of whatever part you're looking to purchase as a replacement - browse around, and try and get the various shops where you might find the product, to physically weigh it for you before deciding whether the weight saved is worth the price (again - expect plenty of 'eye-rolling' at this point [quite possibly rightly so Embarrassed]...


Even better would be to do this with all the potential replacement parts you are looking at getting, and then adding up the total weight saved - you might be surprised (either by how much, or more likely, how little) it actually is - which might convince you otherwise...


Eitherways, I've always approached this with a child-like enthusiasm, that is often scoffed at by my friends and lbs, as being an expensive and pointless exercise - but I find it strangely rewarding to always consider future upgrades with one eye fixed firmly on my bike's goal-weight... Keeps things interesting for me...


Good luck!
RodTi2007-05-16 04:50:21
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I have been told that you look at the parts that rotate first. Tyres, wheelset, cranks, etc.

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I changed the pedals to Ryder Clipless MTB pedals before it even came out the shop.

I think wheels and tyres would be the first thing I'd change. The back of the bike feels very heavy. I dont think its the cassette or rear derailler. I've got the same casette on my road bike (dont ask) and the derailler is deore XT. I can only assume its rims and/or tyres.

Lemme go find some jumps and see if i can buckle / break them Tongue

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I think a lighter wheelset will make the most difference to your ride,

followed by a lighter front shock. Those two items are also the most

costly though. That crankset is also pretty heavy. All three rings on it are steel and you could probably shave a couple of hundred grams going to XT.

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Lightness = $$$$ how much u willing to spend ?


1) Pedals - egg beaters or candy's much lighter

2) Wheels and Cassette - XTR or XT cassetes are considerably lighter and worth upgrading to when your present one is sadt. Wheels are probably the first place to look at when saving weight.

3) Fork - RST are not the lightest.

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fandacious, have a look at the Weight Weenies website which is a comprehensive listing of actual components weights.




In your particular case I would start with your hubs & rims and then go on to your fork.








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Wheels first.the rotating mass on those heavy amplifies the weight. RST shocks are pretty heavy by default.all the cockpit components together add up,but replacing them one by one will make slight differnces that can be felt at the end of the day.good luck,enjoy the quest.

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