robbybzgo

Sounds good. Keep us all in the loop if it goes to market. Maybe make an special introductory offer to BikeHub members??

All carbon wheels should be sold with an exhaust pipe proximity warning...in the same way a box of smokes is sold with a health warning.

My suggestion: try out (borrow) some flat pedals. I tried out flat pedals and really didn't enjoy them as I'm so used to clipping in. It really is a personal choice. Make sure the flat pedals have sufficient depth to the pins that supply the grip.

They look great...very envious. Just need to save up a few kruger-rands.

Read up on this recently discussed topic...https://forum.bikehub.co.za/topic/193888-internal-routing-all-its-cracked-up-to-be/?do=getNewComment

My guess is up to R2,5k if it has been serviced and in good running condition. It looks a bit neglected.

My suggestion, and not sure if this will help you going forward, is to switch off your Mains electricity switch before the electricity comes back on. Switch it on again after a minute or two once the electricity supply is stable (no surges etc). Failing that, unplug all your important electrical devices (from mains supply) until you want to use them. After use, unplug them again.

What guy turns down a boost... 🤣 Just joking...it's a newer wheel/hub size so more options to upgrade in the future...

It really helps to go look at where it all went wrong. Front tyre washout on loose gravel/ front tyre worn or old and losing grip/ weight too far forward/over the bars/ riding too fast and/or bad choice of line taken/ riding too slowly and loosing momentum/ concentration loss or not having sussed out which was the best line to take? Suggest you go walk them, suss out where it went wrong and pick your line and when you're ready...go do them again...

Once minor repair is done, protect your frame from a repeat performance...

Would it be right to assume that the your Gran Fondo is a Road Race and not off-road (MTB)?

It makes total sense to replace what you broke to get yourself back to the way it was, before you started to feel the pain.

Hey MM, I think the main responders are just yanking your chain. Thought you were going to hang up your gloves on this one awhile ago. There are a bunch of dudes on BH who delight in taking the pisss out of pretty much anything and usually everything. Unfortunately these guys stifle more general discussion coz other hubbers don't want to raise a discussion that just develop into a squabble just like this one. Let's call this group the CABAL. They try to rule the roost and gang up on free-minded hubbers who hold an opinion on any subjects they want to pick on and inevitably turn the argument against them. DOES THIS RING A BELL? Suggest you just disconnect and apologies to the cabal for maybe spoiling their fun.

How experienced is your friend? I ask coz the propel is more aero and a more harsh ride. The frame might also be limited to 25mm tyres where 28 is seemingly preferred these days. If he is new to road riding then a more compliant frame might be a better choice. The advertised bike looks in reasonably good condition but I think a long test ride might be the deciding factor here...

That was the best R500 spent on petrol...Eva!

Just a thought...some people use a modified FD as a chainguide. Not ideal but can solve a short-term problem. Good luck with finding the part...

Any reason why you have chosen this specific mount? Had a look at it but it doesn't look like it would fit on my braze-on mount (where the front derailleur would be positioned) as it seems to stick too far forward?? Csixxx make a good range as well. Maybe a pic of where you want to mount it...?

That only shows that High Visibility can't cure stupidity!

After my 1 X 11 xt gear set was no longer new it started dropping off the main ring while in the smallest rear cog (at speed and a bumpy trail). Put on a good quality carbon chain guide and never dropped the chain again. This might help you??

Please DM me your price...

Cane creek is an option but not cheap. I'm looking for a similar headset but my bottom bearing is 55/40 Tapered. Complete set is about R1400.

I've used the Rudy Project Rydons (with inserts -bifocals) for years now. As there is a fair amount of curvature in both lenses the vision isn't 100% but more than adequate for cycling. Fogging up is only a problem if you stop cycling or if there is no breeze over the glasses. Get underway again and they clear fairly quickly. I don't particularly like the Rydon shape but I notice the Fotonyk (bigger and more mod) also takes the inserts so might consider then as a future upgrade.

Good technique can trump anything. Little gains are achieved here and there with most upgrades. It is incredibly difficult to evaluate changes to your setup coz you can never ride in exactly the same line each time with different changes in your setup. Wider tyres will not necessarily make you ride faster but they are designed to give more grip. More grip can certainly assist in riding faster in certain circumstances.

A wider rim simply helps to put more tread on the ground and allows you to run at a slightly softer tyre pressure. So, more tread and more comfort. 2.35 tyres are a great tyre size compromise between trail and XC.

It depends on what bikes you have here. Holla Trails (BALLITO) have easy routes. Rail trail in KLOOF is a relatively easy 20km with a couple of short technical sections. Shongweni trails starting at the Polo Club are generally easy. You'll need to get an EMBA day Pass. For the last two you'll probably need someone to show you the routes the first time unless you check them out on Strava.