BMXER

Gosh, the negative stem is extreme.

The sad truth is that most manufacturers are producing, A) what sells fast and B) what yields the greatest profit. With limited production time, limited labour and limited logistics capacity world wide you will face issues with older generation components.

I run a 10/28 with a 35/48 and have the same issue. I would prefer a move from the 48 to the 35 one gear sooner at the rear. I often compensate shift to action the front derailleur..! I can't find any solution on the app.

34 is a minimum for me. If you hardly touch the 52 rear, then a 36 may even be an option. I love my 36 matchrd with a 10/52. You probably will need a new chain but if deciding on ring size and plan to experiment then i certainly would not cut a new chain to length on round one.

Not sure if it is available in Africa, I have moved to a product named BOESHIELD T9 LUBE. Develeoped with the Boeing Aircraft Corporation, Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubricant will dissolve itself and flush out any other lubricant. Penetrates deeply to thoroughly coat inner pins and rollers. Dries to a clean Paraffin Wax film so it will not pick up dirt. Lubricates and protects for 150 to 200 miles per application. https://products.mtbr.com/product/accessories/lube/boeshield/t9.html

I still ride mine a fair bit. A 24inch, gt. But with my kids 7,11 and 13. Fun times on the track teaching skills.

If you have memories and space, then keep. Otherwise for the right price, I would consider a sell. Certainly would not try to enhance or change that great bike in any way.

Those are the original brakeset, I have a set in the box from my installing v-brakes to the same frame all those years ago. Other than the tyres and saddle that bike is pretty much stock standard

Can't help with a supplier in your area but the product you are looking for is - 3M Scotchgard Pro Series paint protection film

Plus 1 here, boring as hell. I use the trainer on realy wet days, horid winter days and as said following surgery. Nowdays I also ride for fun and fitness, but still have initials programed to the trainer for extreme workouts. Sadly the times we live in have negatively changes our ways a little. I would love to see the back of this virus and return to the start line.

You are, within the rules. I however certainly would not be taking risks that are not paramount. The curfew times and alcohol bans ect are also geared to reduce emergency ward demands.

Yip

Stationery trainer, simple. You certainly don't want to take a fall and end up in hospital.....Don't take the risk it's the law and its time to stay safe. You can do a lot on a trainer. I did a sub 3 Argus totally training on a trainer, had shoulder surgery and had no option. First ride on the road was 100km the week before!

When I ordered my exceed I added 2 hangers to the purchase. I suggest you buy a spare this time around and keep it in a safe place for next time... Just don't forget where the safe place is as I often do!

At last, logic. The ktm and silverback are both obese / heavy. For gravel roads a descent hardtail is also a great option. You must factor carrying a 4 to 6 kg penalty when comparing the ktm against a descent hardtail, unless you have a back or medical issue and ride over the 220 minute mark - I would buy a hardtail. I certainly would not pay 40k for either of those bikes. Right now the industry is sick, deals are few. If you don't need to buy then don't. I would be looking at the 12kg mark as said above. This weight will give a great ride and call upon a proper groupset.

Trained and raced for many years, I have never purchased a cycling specific pair of prescription glasses. My prescription glasses cost enough, would rather upgrade my bike first. With out prescription glasses I would bounce of trees! I simply wear my old pair when I ride. Obviously this is dependent on your prescription but I am able to wear a pair or two from my current prescription when riding. I have a set for mountain bike and a pair of sunglasses for the road. Glasses are great for wind and mud, hence never opted for surgery or contacts. I am selective when buying new glasses, I don't like wrap around Oakley like frames as these move when racing mountain bikes. I also avoid frameless and half style frames. Not only for cycling but my old pairs are used to paint and work so need to be strong. Police and rayban have some great frames for all the said. I honesty have about 6 pairs or glasses in active use. I live on a z1000 motocycle so need a pair of glasses that slide into a full face helmet. Fun stuff.

Yip. The silver looks like a few braces were added during testing. Not stiff enough? no issue add a bit to the top tube. All fixed then....

The cross your heart and promise not to die on the downhill looking frame is really off-putting on the silver.

Been in Australia for the past 5 years, your certification comment about SA could not be more wrong. SA undervalues labour, does not pay tradesmen well at all. Trade qualifications in SA are few and far between. Certification is the last issue SA has. In Australia you will pay 5000zar to service a fork, 500zar will get a bb pressed in, plus the bb cost. I service my own bike, could not be easier with youtube and pdf downloads on every phone. Dropping a piece of glass 1m square from a workbench in Aus is a fall from heights and will close the production line, government inspection and approval is needed to restart work. Point being anything goes in SA and the standard of work sadly follows. Re the topic at hand, being a bicycle mechanic in SA is not a qualification, and it honestly needs to be. Sadly the wage paid needs to double like that will ever happen.

Bike fit improves handling, stem length and bars width are a product of the process. That been said, 100mm on a 29er is on the lengthy side. I ride a 80 to 90mm stem, inverted at 7 degrees but my shoes size is different to yours. So find the fit that works for you. Cross country differs to downhill, setup and fit are from different recipe books....

Yip, sram level ultimate seperate from the clamp and are interchangeable left to right.

I do plenty of enduro on my husky, commute on a z1000. My bicycle brakes all have a rear brake on the right..... no issues or confusion

I enjoyed this article. https://www.bikeradar.com/features/opinion/bike-industry-mtb-standards/

If it won't retreat then you need to inspect, clean and possibly disassemble. Forse is not the answer.

What's wrong with a 13mm spanner and a strong hand? A square push and the pistons go back.