NotSoBigBen

Don't know about calipers and stuff but I have ordered some of those Alligators rotors at 100ZA rond that were mentioned a while ago here on the hub! Should arrive this week ...... Look a bit 'Ninjaish' but lets see !

I just wish they would get the Timex data recorder import running in 2.0 then In the meantime still with 1.3 (nearly 2 years now!) and happy!

Must agree on the Tora, nice fork. Bit heavy but works and requires very little maintenance! Had one for a while, only moved on for weight saving ......

Thanks JB, that together with what I've read now makes sense to me! So last night I measured the existing setup at 48mm so will just check tonight by putting middle chainring and middle cassette ring and if it's straight I'm sorted. If not I have an opportunity now to get it right and lets see if it improves the shifting or anything? Just as an aside I always wondered how exactly to adjust the 'B-screw' correctly, any insight? As I now understand it is to adjust the distance between the 'upper' pulley wheel and the cassette for the best shifting performance and not to 'take up slack in the chain' as some dufus told me once! According to SRAM for the MTB's it should be at about 6mm, is it the same for Shimano and also for roadbike or are there different tolerances so to speak? I never worried about it just high, low and cable tension but guess there's more to it than that!

Dankie oom, ek's nou by die huis en lees bietjie daaroor in die Barnes. Sal daai CD moet saamdra werk toe (middagete lees!)

Always a curved ball you know! Every other BB I installed just had the spacers for if the BB shell was 68 or 73 MM, easy peasy. Now these okes come with some other complications ........ but guess if I want the bling I'll have to go the 'extra mile' so to speak. Like I said will measure the existing and just make it the same.

Thanks BOB was busy reading there but flippin heck! Will just try to measure the existing 'chainlline' and see if that helps. It seems the chainline is from the middle of the BB to the middle chainring, at least on a triple chainring bike! Lets see tonight .......

Just checking the installation instructions for my raceface crank and it has options for the 'chainline' like 48,49,and 50 with spacers. so now how do I know what chainline my 2005 Specialized S-works M5 hardtail frame should have?

How much heavier are we talking here? Surely there has to be a significant difference in weight for this to be a factor as say 10 mins for example? Just thinking aloud .........

Does it matter ..............

Pant - flip at a quick glance I thought he's finally seen the light (You can never be too Specialized) 'Mrs. Pant on an Epic' but alas no a Raleigh nogal. Ai ai ai!!!!

Gangsta - it's you and me behind the shed after work today for those kind of 'blasphemous' statements

Hey Delgado - lucky I do not have an 'onion' so am saved from the flaying!

vet pens <> a him

Ewep - you training for the downhill funride champs?

Not only hearing .............................

Actually if you chaps don't mind to stop 'happing and krapping and torring' - rather help me with my quest https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=20998 Fanks Ben

You right even LBB weighs more than that!

Must be 'philosophical argument' then I guess and definitely 'tongue-in-cheek' Thanks Bob for clearing that up .....anyways besides all the directions this post took (no I wasn't too concerned with my wheels state of 'wobble') I am happy that black is as strong as silver or red or yellow or whatever 1 spoke some okes throw in to confuse us!

Originally posted by velo According to Easton: Q. What's the difference between black spokes and silver spokes. A. Nothing, except for color. Black spokes are made by applying a black oxide coating (not anodizing) to the spoke. It's a topical coating for cosmetic purpose only, and does nothing for the function or strength of the spoke. QED (or something like that?)