I have a Geetech saw (through CMC), and I am quite happy with mine. Has a very nice fence that clamps both sides. Only have 1.5HP motor though. Wish I could upgrade the motor to 3HP.
Looks like this:
https://www.ridgidforum.com/filedata/fetch?id=615324
but white.
On my wishlist ... I've got a lot of 'hobby' grade machines that I'm slowly upgrading. First need a bigger belt/disk sander, then a proper pedestal drill, then possibly a better table saw.
the problem I have with the off the shelf table saws is getting the rip fence and the blade to run in parallel.
The clamp systems on the fence usually result in the guide pulling skew and hence everything lands up being fubar. Especially those with clamps that only clamp on one side.
I even argues with the marlet rep - till I asked him to use a square. Ja, then he used the one in one hundred thing.
Fortunately, I broke my fence's clamping system, so I'm doing (lengthy) setups and clamp-downs with a piece of Alu channel and g-clamps
On mine (crappy 254mm ryobi POS) I hold the far side in place, pre-tension it, line it up again by tapping left (it pulls right when clamping) and then clamp a little more and a little more and a little more until it's tight enough and running parallel. Bitch to set up properly, but it works. Most times.
Need a new blade for it but it's like putting lipstick on a pig.
Ryobi blades are notoriously hard to find, due to the size of the center hole. Chamberlains has original Ryobi blades in stock - do NOT buy the Tork Craft ones with the spacers, they will give you gray hair that will fall out in seconds. HORRID to try and set up straight.
Looks very pretty - my only comment would be that the handle should taper slightly towards the head of the mallet - so when you are using it it will not tend to slip out of your hand on the stroke - a criticism I have of some surgical mallets too, which can get pretty slippery and hard to hang on to.
I think I need to do that. My initial thought process was to wrap the handles with paracord, but that Beech is just so lekker smooth, and the size is just perfect. Paracord would have made them just a tad too thick.
I'll be tapering the next set of handles though.
And shame on you lot for not using the mallets to moer things - that's why I made them
Wow, a mallet with a face.
Now it kinda looks like he moered Sid with it
A thing of beauty just arrived...Thanks pants Boy, pragtige stukkie werk!
Thanks for the pics, and kind words. Now go moer something
Dammit, I keep breaking belts on my drum sander. I'm about to torch it
It's one of those Adendorf Mac-Afric jobbies, works pretty well once set up (which mine is) but lately I've been breaking sanding belts left right and center. I can't seem to find the 3 inch wde belts so ended up using 1 inch emery cloth, they worked pretty well, especially in rougher grits, but fine grits, over 120 ... couple of feet and riiiip.
The grains aren't in opposing directions ie they don't curve up then down up then down - same direction next to each other, which means it'll be prone to bowing.
Learnt that the hard way
Actually cupping, but yes you're right.
S@B, are the glued yet?
Okay boys, so - table saw or circular saw. I DESPISE my current table saw (Ryobi POS) so am looking to replace it with something else. Problem being - table saws are expensive. I have my sliding mitre saw, so crosscuts aren't a problem unless the material is more than 300mm wide. And I don't mind working on trestles or a workbench, or with guide rails. I know that the table saw is more easy to use cos you can just set the fence and rip away, but TBH I don't see myself spending 8k - 10k on a single item just yet. Far rather spend that on 3 items.
Thoughts?
You don't have space ... Make yourself a movable panel saw frame, and buy a proper plunge saw.
Ja, that's solid, my top's not going to be that solid, it's 32 thick, planed some 38x152's to 32 and took 7mm off the sides to get a straight edge, so they're 145 wide x 8 is 1160 wide.
Still need to add the breadboards, then it will be 2390 long.
I REALLY hope those aren't glued yet ...
Will post reason in a while, hoping someone else also sees it
DROOOOOOOL!!!
EDIT: Bugger you! You got the new articulating arm one! YOU BASTARD!
I need to make a trolley for mine, the lowly Metabo KGS254M
Thought you had a 216M like me? Did you upgrade?
This member has joined my team today after a wee chat with Myles. In this fight cycling came second. Sorry.
Apple Tool & Gas currently have special on them and I couldn't resist.
http://www.bosch-naradie.sk/images/bosch-gcm12gdl-gta2500w-akcia-0615990FZ6-1v.jpg
That's a keeper!
Got sorted with a fair bit of Camelthorn just now ... if my mate wasn't a dominees I'd kiss him.
Hmmm ... gonna have to go rob my mate again, and pretty soon by the looks of it
Thanks for all the mallet orders!
Ha ha - a mate just asked me whee I screwed those mallets (Screws in the pic) - those screws were used to hold down a template to my mitre saw station, no screws in the mallets, only wedged tenons.
You have a PM, muthafckr
You have a reply, bonehead.
Days of being willing to pay for quality workmanship and doing a job elegantly are lone gone.
Fixed it for you.
Hey guys, I know this is going to show my naivety here,
but can this be right and if so please explain the massive price differences
No. 4 Planner
Ardendorf no name brand special @ R175
Hardware Centre : Stanley @ R3800 & Veritas @ R5275
The two big differences would be finish and tolerances.
I can just about guarantee you that the NNB does not have a flat sole, and it would not be smooth. Then on to adjustments - I bought a cheap plane some time ago and couldn't get the blade to line up properly at all. It would either be skew or would not go below the sole etc etc etc. Took out the blade and chucked the rest. Blade got used as a paint scraper.
How do one make that deep square holes?
Close to what Myles described, though I used a router mounted in a router table and a fence for these. They are indeed two pieces. I also make solid ones if I can find the right size wood, the I normally make a big round hole for a round handle.
It took me very close to 30 minutes to drill a 20mm hole in that camelthorn head - that stuff is damn hard. (Sharp Forstner bit used on a drill press for the curious) I may have to enlarge that hole to 30mm though ... not really smaaking the feel of the 20mm at the moment.
why do you think there was that saying measure twice cut once?
What is the size? Pictures?
Maybe I could help
It's not big, just a pain. Maybe 50cm X 50cm X30 or so, sort of a wedge shape. I can't find my chainsaw, so need to try and figure it out on the bandsaw and table saw. Will see if I can get a pic tonight.
I'll post some pics and prices of the mallets once done.
Woah, dude - that grain is beautiful!
I WANT ONE!!!
I've got one more block of camelthorn that I'm trying to figure out how to split properly - will probably get four or five 3 inch mallets out of it. I'll let you know once I get it split
Post your woodwork here
in Chit chat
Posted
Go to a bolt and nut shop and get Locknuts (Nylock) in the right size. One per bolt (little rod) and you'd be waxed.