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Fact is people are paying lots here for bad workmanship, I see it everyday. Thing is they are getting away with it because generally the customer does knot know the difference!
For example, yesterday I was doing some work fitting a new gutter at a customers house, notice the absolutely kuk job done by swimming pool contractors who fitted solar panels to heat the pool water
- hold-down ropes were tied to the to roof nails, this has pulled them out, the corrugated iron roofing is now loose (should have been screw-in eyes)
- Panels were not installed level so there will not be even water flow.
- One panel was too short so it wasn't even connected
- General plumbing is fugly
Customer had no clue.
Yeah, that's also true. I've been lucky to get a few customers this year that was willing to pay for good design (ie take extra time to design it, we'll pay for it) The one guy had a coffee table (made by another guy, who I happen to know) back three times because it was not right. I don't think the guy that made it even talked to the client more than once. It's the guy I did that Rhodesian Teak and steel bar for. He ended up giving the coffee table back.
FFS. That explains SO much. Went with an aftermarket TorkCraft a looong time ago, I think, and it's not a good fit at all. Seems to have developed a wobble, even though the bolts are MOER tight. Checked it the other day when it just wouldn't cut properly, and there was about .25mm free movement. Which explained the horrible sound it was making whilst sawing cos the blade was vibrating. Turned it off and put it away as fast as possible.
Let me know if you're unable to find one down there, I've got a mate at Chamberlains that can get stuff from their stores very quickly 
I've got a question that is almost wood work related. Our kitchen drawer handles keep coming loose. They are handles that we've collected over time. I don't know the technical name by the little rod is attached to the handle knob and goes through the wood. On the back are two little nuts that are supposed to lock against each other. But I think the nuts may not be the right size and they don't lock. After just one or two pulls they are loose. Is there anyway I can fasten them in place so they don't move at all?
I have heard there may be a lock tight type glue that could be used.
Any suggestions?
Go to a bolt and nut shop and get Locknuts (Nylock) in the right size. One per bolt (little rod) and you'd be waxed.
I have a Geetech saw (through CMC), and I am quite happy with mine. Has a very nice fence that clamps both sides. Only have 1.5HP motor though. Wish I could upgrade the motor to 3HP.
Looks like this:
https://www.ridgidforum.com/filedata/fetch?id=615324
but white.
On my wishlist ... I've got a lot of 'hobby' grade machines that I'm slowly upgrading. First need a bigger belt/disk sander, then a proper pedestal drill, then possibly a better table saw.
the problem I have with the off the shelf table saws is getting the rip fence and the blade to run in parallel.
The clamp systems on the fence usually result in the guide pulling skew and hence everything lands up being fubar. Especially those with clamps that only clamp on one side.
I even argues with the marlet rep - till I asked him to use a square. Ja, then he used the one in one hundred thing.
Fortunately, I broke my fence's clamping system, so I'm doing (lengthy) setups and clamp-downs with a piece of Alu channel and g-clamps
On mine (crappy 254mm ryobi POS) I hold the far side in place, pre-tension it, line it up again by tapping left (it pulls right when clamping) and then clamp a little more and a little more and a little more until it's tight enough and running parallel. Bitch to set up properly, but it works. Most times.
Need a new blade for it but it's like putting lipstick on a pig.
Ryobi blades are notoriously hard to find, due to the size of the center hole. Chamberlains has original Ryobi blades in stock - do NOT buy the Tork Craft ones with the spacers, they will give you gray hair that will fall out in seconds. HORRID to try and set up straight.
Looks very pretty - my only comment would be that the handle should taper slightly towards the head of the mallet - so when you are using it it will not tend to slip out of your hand on the stroke - a criticism I have of some surgical mallets too, which can get pretty slippery and hard to hang on to.
I think I need to do that. My initial thought process was to wrap the handles with paracord, but that Beech is just so lekker smooth, and the size is just perfect. Paracord would have made them just a tad too thick.
I'll be tapering the next set of handles though.
And shame on you lot for not using the mallets to moer things - that's why I made them 
Wow, a mallet with a face.
Now it kinda looks like he moered Sid with it
A thing of beauty just arrived...Thanks pants Boy, pragtige stukkie werk!
Thanks for the pics, and kind words. Now go moer something
Dammit, I keep breaking belts on my drum sander. I'm about to torch it
It's one of those Adendorf Mac-Afric jobbies, works pretty well once set up (which mine is) but lately I've been breaking sanding belts left right and center. I can't seem to find the 3 inch wde belts so ended up using 1 inch emery cloth, they worked pretty well, especially in rougher grits, but fine grits, over 120 ... couple of feet and riiiip.
The grains aren't in opposing directions ie they don't curve up then down up then down - same direction next to each other, which means it'll be prone to bowing.
Learnt that the hard way
Actually cupping, but yes you're right.
S@B, are the glued yet?
Okay boys, so - table saw or circular saw. I DESPISE my current table saw (Ryobi POS) so am looking to replace it with something else. Problem being - table saws are expensive. I have my sliding mitre saw, so crosscuts aren't a problem unless the material is more than 300mm wide. And I don't mind working on trestles or a workbench, or with guide rails. I know that the table saw is more easy to use cos you can just set the fence and rip away, but TBH I don't see myself spending 8k - 10k on a single item just yet. Far rather spend that on 3 items.
Thoughts?
You don't have space ... Make yourself a movable panel saw frame, and buy a proper plunge saw.
Ja, that's solid, my top's not going to be that solid, it's 32 thick, planed some 38x152's to 32 and took 7mm off the sides to get a straight edge, so they're 145 wide x 8 is 1160 wide.
Still need to add the breadboards, then it will be 2390 long.
I REALLY hope those aren't glued yet ...
Will post reason in a while, hoping someone else also sees it 
DROOOOOOOL!!!
EDIT: Bugger you! You got the new articulating arm one! YOU BASTARD!
I need to make a trolley for mine, the lowly Metabo KGS254M
Thought you had a 216M like me? Did you upgrade?
This member has joined my team today after a wee chat with Myles. In this fight cycling came second. Sorry.
Apple Tool & Gas currently have special on them and I couldn't resist.
http://www.bosch-naradie.sk/images/bosch-gcm12gdl-gta2500w-akcia-0615990FZ6-1v.jpg
That's a keeper!
Got sorted with a fair bit of Camelthorn just now ... if my mate wasn't a dominees I'd kiss him.
Hmmm ... gonna have to go rob my mate again, and pretty soon by the looks of it
Thanks for all the mallet orders!
Ha ha - a mate just asked me whee I screwed those mallets (Screws in the pic) - those screws were used to hold down a template to my mitre saw station, no screws in the mallets, only wedged tenons.
You have a PM, muthafckr
You have a reply, bonehead.
Days of being willing to pay for quality workmanship and doing a job elegantly are lone gone.
Fixed it for you.
Finished the moering trio. Will make you a Rhodesian Teak carpenter's mallet for R250 and a Camelthorn carver's mallet for R200. Can ship via Aramex for R100 .Handles will be Beech, I'm glad I listened to V12 and went with Beech. Works really well
5
Hey guys, I know this is going to show my naivety here,
but can this be right and if so please explain the massive price differences
No. 4 Planner
Ardendorf no name brand special @ R175
Hardware Centre : Stanley @ R3800 & Veritas @ R5275
The two big differences would be finish and tolerances.
I can just about guarantee you that the NNB does not have a flat sole, and it would not be smooth. Then on to adjustments - I bought a cheap plane some time ago and couldn't get the blade to line up properly at all. It would either be skew or would not go below the sole etc etc etc. Took out the blade and chucked the rest. Blade got used as a paint scraper.
How do one make that deep square holes?
Close to what Myles described, though I used a router mounted in a router table and a fence for these. They are indeed two pieces. I also make solid ones if I can find the right size wood, the I normally make a big round hole for a round handle.
It took me very close to 30 minutes to drill a 20mm hole in that camelthorn head - that stuff is damn hard. (Sharp Forstner bit used on a drill press for the curious) I may have to enlarge that hole to 30mm though ... not really smaaking the feel of the 20mm at the moment.
why do you think there was that saying measure twice cut once?
Post your woodwork here
in Chit chat
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That's a pretty bandsaw.
And your workshop looks just fine
You should see mine sometimes.