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LazyTrailRider

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Everything posted by LazyTrailRider

  1. Because they're thicker. UST (certified) sidewalls are even thicker (and thus heavier), but can hold air and run without sealant; even though it's a silly thing to do because there is nothing to stop deflation in case of a puncture.
  2. Nope, unfortunately because of the proprietary spokes (number, shape) you're stuck with having to use the proprietary hub. Get it fixed, sell it, and consider something like this: http://www.evobikes.co.za/wheels/wheelsets-mtb/novatec-dragon-29-wheelset.html Or if your budget is tighter this: http://www.evobikes.co.za/wheels/wheelsets-mtb/shimano-mt55-29er-wheelset.html Of all the wheels I've had, CrossRides and Easton Havens have the crappiest rear hubs.
  3. What everyone else has said...
  4. Yeah, it's an odd thing. I had a Syncros FR1.5 on my Scale which was 125g and cost R600, the maths related to a carbon stem didn't make any sense to me (or to my sensibilities which bombing through rock gardens).
  5. That is a wolf in sheep's clothing. Seriously quick.
  6. Hot damn.
  7. You can say that again... Amazing craftsmanship either way.
  8. Cool, I'm keen on the first day's riding!
  9. There's the problem...
  10. Yep, that's the pinnacle. It's also not going to cost just R2k to get one of these on your bike...
  11. Solid choices
  12. Haha, no bias at all then?
  13. I don't get this. All it does is make the block of machined metal sticking out a different colour... As well as adding a few grams of weight. Does not compute.
  14. Nice looking ride. At some point in future you can drop the dual rings and go narrow-wide, the simplicity rocks!
  15. Oh yes, I forgot to mention the rebound side being wild (2013 Evo of course). You're referring to rebound with these facts?
  16. Yep, they: Have very little small-bump sensitivity. I'm guessing due to the air spring configuration (it has a negative coil spring AFAIK, or none at all), it sits pretty much at the very top of its travel in default, compared to most RS forks which have equalised (Solo air) or adjustable (Dual air) negative air chambers which cause the fork to be slightly compressed by default, with negative air pressure helping to "push" into that first bit of travel. Have terrible compression damping. Because of the first point, you need to run them at lower pressure than you ideally should in an attempt to get small-bump compliance, but because the compression damping is virtually non-existent in "Descend" mode on CTD, you end up with a fork which dives overly. The seals aren't great, so after 3 hours of dusty riding you often end up with a squeaky, stictiony (I just made this word up) feeling front end unless you apply a good dose of wet lube. Look, only a small percentage of riders will notice or care. If you don't really hammer stuff the first two points are of the "huh?" variety, which is why many many bikes out there run Evolution Series forks without any complaints surfacing. Once you really step on the gas however and nail your bike through a rock garden and bounce into a berm, you start getting annoyed.
  17. As has been mentioned in the other thread, the most important consideration here is whether you really do need such a wide gearing range, and thus one of these fancy cassette "enlargers". For 95% of riders, throwing a standard 11-36t cassette on with a relatively carefully chosen chainring size is more than adequate. I honestly don't think having a massive 40-somethingish gear option is worth the extra cost (R2200 buys you a decent crankset on its own!) and hassle. Go the simple route, ride it for a while, and then decide whether you really need the massive gear.
  18. Actually, that's also not a bad option
  19. My best-value combo would be: - SLX brakes - SLX cassette - SRAM PG1050 chain (it's shinier, hehe) - X0 shifters (buttery smoove, AND very crisp/solid shifting action) - SPD 540 pedals - SLX cranks - X9 type 2 derailleur - Front derailleur - any model is fine
  20. Agreed. I may have come across as disliking Specialized, but I don't. They make really good bikes (my brother rides a 26" carbon Stumpy with a Pike, it's a brilliant machine), but my point was really just that they're not the only ones who make really good bikes. I've owned and/or ridden bikes from the stables of: - Nishiki (Alien) - BlueGrass (LeisureLine) - Diamondback (Topanga, Ascent, Apex) - Commencal (Meta 5.5) - Wheeler (7900ZX) - Giant (ATX990, XTC, Glory, Reign) - Cannondale (CAAD3 HT, Super V DH) - Intense (5.5, M3, Uzzi, Tracer) - Kona (Fire Mountain, Lava Dome) - Scott (Scale) - Specialized (Stumpy FSR carbon) - Pyga (current OneTen29) Out of all these bikes, two stand out specifically: - Intense 5.5 - it's a ruthlessly accurate machine, albeit with too much VPP bobbing happiness. - Pyga OneTen29 - the most well-balanced and all-round capable of the lot. It can climb like an XC bike, and descend with almost as much gusto as an AM bike. The above having been said, several other bikes I've ridden have been very good. Each has its own "something special". Being blinded into thinking only one manufacturer makes great bikes (like some of the posters here) is just plain stupid. BTW, I drive a BMW and have several Apple devices, as you know
  21. There was nothing ridiculous about his statement.
  22. Not negatively in this case. Pat & Mark designed the OneTen to accept either a 120 or 140mm, with 140 of course slackening the head angle just enough to provide the extra stability needed for the kind of riding you're likely to do with a longer fork.
  23. Johnny, your last comment was just plain stewpard.. Enlighten us, with such incredible knowledge, just how many different bikes have you owned/ridden in the last 20 years?
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