Spoke101

Oooohhhhhh. What a bike. Big fan of the matte black and spec. oh and the extraordinary generosity.

I think said people would get a good taste and drenching of whatever poison of pleasure I had decided to use that day.

Most probably movement between the saddle and the rails or depending on what seatpost you are using, how the saddle mount to the seatpost (ie. Ritchey single bolt) there can be moment. Get hold of some fiber grip and that should solve the problem.

I would go for something that is maybe slightly overkill to be safe (This also depends on riding style, tyre choice, and tyre pressure). Also try get a wheelset that uses J-bend spokes and brass nipples as the last thing you wont is proprietary spokes and tools that thread at both ends or are fancy and over engineered (ie. Mavic SLR, DT Swiss, Crankbros). But just get a good wheel builder to give them a one over 2-3 weeks before race day and then test them thoroughly. Then hope for the best and plan for the worst.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzbyQWPNI-c I have used both resin and metal. Only major difference I found were that metal pad needed to be bedded in correctly and properly and this takes way longer that resin pads. and that when wet and cold (ie. the rotors are not hot) metal pad sound like a cat on a hot tin roof.

Sorry. but I have had no issues. But then I'm running Win7 Pro with Mozilla Firefox. Try clearing your browsers cache. Try a different browser or uninstall Chrome and reinstall.

To those who joined in 2004 this year will bring up the big 10 (A Decade), so congrats to those special few. (I still have a long way to go).

Interesting. I'm considering taking out a policy with iCycle.

This is a big problem with carbon rims. Have seen 3 melted where the carbon actually delaminates.

As far as I know they don't make a 3 bike version.

Yip. Same one

Learn to throw down some whip's:D

GT Zaskar Sport 2014 R12 000.00 http://www.gtbicycle...zaskar-9r-sport RockShox XC30 Clutch/Shadow Rear Derailleur 2X10 Groupset

True that.

Have a look here. http://www.importitall.co.za/product_info.php?query=kurt+kinetic&x=0&y=0 Or PM W1Z@RD he was selling one a few years ago

Ok. So hear is my solution. Go to your lbs and ask for this Then using this part Cut the little tab of the end. Then get your self some shimano hydraulic cable (it is expensive so see if you can find some leftover after the brake lines have been shortened). Then place the cap over the gear outer as normal and then push the little tail of the cap in to the hydraulic cable it is a very tight fit so some twisting is needed. Then cut the hydraulic cable ot the required length and repeat the gear cap on the other end and there we go fully sealed outer.

Garmin:D

Common problem with X5 and X7 not sure about X9 though.

If you are only wanting to use your middle 32t and big 44t rings. Step 1. Shift your front derailleur in to the middle ring. This will allow the limit screw to more freely as it wont be under pressure. Step 2. If your derailleur's design alows and the limit screw is long enough adjust the "L" low screw clockwise as far as it will go or till in extreme cases starts moving the front derailleur towards the big ring. Step 3. release the gear cable from the front derailleur. Step 4. If your limit screw does not allow this due to it's short length physically pull the derailleur outward by hand using the derailleur cage and place a object between the derailleur and the down tube of your frame. I find the handle of a screw driver to work well. Adjust this using bigger or smaller objects or by shifting the screw driver's handle vertically up and down slightly. The aim is to get the inner side of the derailleur cage as close to the chain as possible without touching it. Step 5. Now pull the slack out the gear cable and tighten it. This little trick has now made your 1st gear on the shifter the middle ring on the crank and the 2nd gear on the shifter the big ring so you will only need the first two shifts and the 3rd won't be usable due to the H limit on the derailleur. Step 6. Small adjustments can now be made using the barrel adjustment on the shifter. This whole process might take abit of trial and error but it gets rid of the slack in the cable for the 1st shift if only the limit screw was adjusted. This system also works in reverse it you only require the small 22t and middle 32t rings.

In some case's yes. Lets say you where on the small side of large 26er frame riders and you were looking at a 29er I would look at dropping a frame size. But it is way mor complicated than that as generally the wheel base is longer and you the rider are now higher off the ground. Frame geometry also plays a big role along with type of bike and style of riding ie. XC XCM XCE AM FR DH and whether you are a weekend warrior or a professional racer.

haha. Trying do do things via the app. Image failed to post.

Well I picked these up today.