Spoke101

Not sure if you know this? But Stages only do aluminium crank arms so you can still run them on both your bikes but will have to run a X9 MTB and Rival RD non drive side crank arm.

The rider was Kalvin Perchase, probably weights 80kg max. It happened on the flatter pedal section of the downhill track as he hit the take-off of one of the small table tops. As far as I know he was on a GT fury but not sure if it was the standard stem.

The carbon one of course.

Have you asked VC if they have any security footage as we have camera's and campus security at every entrance and exit?

Some stuff like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiCdm5FsJpg

5 min's. Practice Practice Practice. Wait till you can ride with no hands and do flat out standing sprints.

It normally takes up to 12 hours before a tracking number is loaded on to the couriers site.

That's interesting.

I don’t think it was Max's decision to ride XC but rather Ghost SA and now a opportunity has come to go back to what he is obviously good at he took it.

The whispers in the wing that I heard where that Max was told he would get a spot on the Ghost international squad an as of the last time I checked he wasn't or had ever been put up on there site as a official sponsored rider. So it might be a case of empty promises? I find it sad how most of the Pro riders here in SA chop and change between teams like they change their underwear, yes the riders have to take the opportunities that present themselves and do what they deem to be in their best interest but there seems to be no brand loyalty both with athletes and sponsors. Yes on the face of it everything seems to have ended amicably but the behind the scenes talk and politics with everyone throwing each other "under the bus" is killing the sport. Sponsors don't want to sponsor athletes because the get kicked in the teeth as the end of one season and obviously athletes aren't happy with there current situation be it that the grass may look greener on the other side or that they are not getting the support and backing they require? I think we need to take a leaf out of the overseas teams book and have sponsors make a long commitment to the sport ie. 10 years and do it to the best of their ability and on the other hand our riders need to stop being so fussy and a bit OCD, be happy you have a sponsor and a bike to ride. They for lack of a better way of putting it are way to serious and high strung always having an excuse as to why they didn't perform instead of just saying a better man won, suck it up and live to fight another day. Look at some of the European riders ie. Hermida, Fontana and the likes. A happy rider = a fast rider. Rant over.

Depends where you riding (ie. the road surface). But even if it gets a bit bumpy as long as you keep tension on the chain by pedaling it should not come off.

+1

+1 Unless in a very unlikely situation your front hub can be converted to a 20mm TA

Quick question: Are you battling to un-cleat due to the cleat being to tight in the pedal? (This has to do with the spacing of the cleat in relation to the sole of the shoe. ie. the closer the cleat is to the shoe the more contact the tread on your shoe will have with the pedal and thus it will be stiffer and harder to un-cleat). or There being to much float with the cleat thus you are having to kick your heal out further in order to get the cleat to disengage? (This has to do with the shape of the cleat and Crank Bros do make different cleats with different amounts of float. if you are used to Shimano SPD's then I would suggest you get a pair of the "No Float" cleats this will allow the cleat to disengage with a lot less heal movement).

How do you finish 245th out of 241 riders in your batch?

According to this I need to run 1.3 and 1.5 bar Front and Rear. Now this gives huge grip but I have tried this and it is only suitable for extremely smooth single track with NO rocks or roots. The front tyre also tends to roll when cornering hard and then there is the risk of burping the tyre, depending on the makeup of the tyre sidewall and weather it's a UST or TLR tyre. This could also affect what pressures you run and the amount of role experienced (ie, the new Conti protection series seem to have a very ridged sidewall). If just out for a ride then these pressures might suffice but it you planning on riding through any sort of rock garden or "rootie"? section with any vigor or speed you will be smashing in particular your rear rim on everything. Now when you are running carbon rims I prefer to avoid this. But this a good indication and I think it works better if your weight is more normal if there is such a thing. Finally I think having an accurate pump or gauge is critical.

Tapered Headtube I think does make a small difference on long travel or 29er's but as for QR vs 15mm TA as long as you are using proper skewers I don't find a difference for XC riding.

What a machine. Christmas must have come early.

First off I don't want to step on anyone's toes here so this is my experience. These are factors which I take into account: Weight of rider + weight of bike. Riding discipline. ie. DH/4X/XC/AM Type of bike. ie. Hardtail/Softtail & Amount of travel. Riding terrain. ie. Rocks/Sand/mud. Type of rider. ie. Racing snake/weekend warrior. Make, Model and Width of Tyre. 29/26 & 1.9/2.25 & Protection/snakeskin. Riding style. ie. Do you ride silky smooth or tend to just smash through/over everything. Width of Rim In & Out. ie. ZTR vs Reynolds Suspension setup. ie. Soft/Hard You might think I'm going over the top here but I find all these factor add up and I really don't wan't to smash a 30k Reynolds wheelset. I weigh 60kg and my bike is 9.4kg. Mostly XC but some Enduro stuff as well. Hardtail 29er. Mostly soft/clay with some sandy and rocky stuff in between. Racing Snake Schwalbe Racing Ralph Snakeskin 29, 2.25 I would like to think silky smooth but maybe not. Wheels Reynolds Carbon 29mm out 21mm in Suspension fairly hard. I currently run 1.5 bar up front and 1.7 out back. I found that i can run 1.4 up front but the tyre tends to roll quite a lot in the corners and 1.7 work great out back apart from on the odd occasion when I feel a rock or tree root make contact with the rim. I also try to check before a ride by pressing down on the tyre with heal of my hand where it meets your wrist and with all your weight and if i can feel the rim then I know they are to soft. Hope this helps.

Give some of the PMB boys a shout when you get into town and we can organize some rides and show you around.

There are plenty more pics Here.

Yes you are correct. Rushsports do sell them. I run them on my Trek and they seem to last pretty well even with the bearing sitting directly in the frame. But with the Enduro non driveside bearing the inner race has a ID of 22mm so there is no spacer to knock out. This is what you are looking for.

Sorry man, and they took all the spare wheels. Never rains but pours. The Felt might be rather hard to get rid of and being a TT bike it's kind of unusual so you might have some luck there.