droo

Jared @ Paint by Jared in Mowbray.

Specific to the exact hub with Novatec, nevermind the brand. What model of hub?

Yes. Lyne test pretty much everything they make extensively before release. Not a sticky as Deathgrips, but last a bit longer and have a hard plastic end cap so they don't disassemble themselves as easily as the full rubber kind when you crash. Been on them for quite a while now and have no complaints. Was on ODI Rogue before.

Or just find a light that can run off USB while plugged in, A 10Ah power bank will set you back far less than a bike light battery, and can easily be strapped to a stem or stashed in a frame bag.

DM the cc_x_standert account on Insta, whoever runs the account will point you in the right direction.

If you've hit them with the impact wrench you're going to have a time. Godspeed.

You could probably get that out with a machined down bolt. But I'd suggest taking it to a machinist, you don't get too many chances at these things before they get proper FUBAR. I know a very good one in CT, but Secunda no doubt has some pretty experienced machinists and fitters who could sort this out for you.

A grub screw extractor will save you. I have a set of Grabits, sadly no longer available, that will sort that out in seconds. It's got a burnishing tool on one and and an extractor on the other. If anyone after me on this thread has found a tool that works as well, please let me know cos I'm dreading the day that they wear out.

Truecaller also does the chat without adding thing. Many ways to skin this cat.

If you hit your head against the wall often enough the wall will give way, no?

Looks like a bicyclepubes drawing...

How has the waterproofing held up after the repairs? I'm not keen on having a leaky unit (phrasing!) when I'm done, I get caught out in the rain quite a bit.

All my bikes and my car currently have knobbly tyres, so you're not wrong...

That's HG, not XDR. Not quite the same, even though they use the same spacer.

Finding one that still works is probably a bigger challenge. Most of the ones I've dealt with in recent years have found their way to the scrap heap.

Look, I'm partial to a bodge if I can't get the right thing, but as a mechanic with my shop logo as my avatar I'm kinda obliged to offer the textbook answer, particularly if I haven't personally tested the alternative...

If you want bombproof, that Hope / South combo is pretty attractive. Roval Terra CL / CLX have DT hubs so will also outlast most bikes and are better priced than you'd expect. Zipp hubs don't have the best reputation for longevity but they are light, so if weight is your aim and you've got bearing presses and pullers in your toolbox then they may be worth a look. Less so if you ride in wet or muddy conditions often. Their rims are sadly not available separately.

Better options for cassettes for sure, but will depend on the hub. OP - I have 2 11sp 105 cassettes for sale if you decide to go this route, 11-28 and 11-32.

LBS should have one in a spares bin, it's the same one you fit behind a Shimano 11sp cassette on an HG driver. You get them with most MTB wheelsets.

SRAM's road 11sp cassettes were HG, so the only 11sp XD from SRAM is MTB 10-42T. You can use the MTB stuff with a 1.85mm spacer. Aftermarket you can get the E13 XCX 9-34 which should work with the Ultegra 11sp (although not officially), but they're ********* pricy and rare as rocking horse poo. I'd love one but can't justify R4k + for a cassette that I'd have to import. There may be others out there, but the only ones I've seen are SROAD which I trust about as much as a politician.

If you can get the pedals out and the threads aren't damaged then the cranks are definitely on backwards, which makes sense since there was work done on the motor. There might be markings on the back of the cranks that tell you which side they should be on.

Cool, then PM @Snaagi. He's in CT and has done a few frames for us.

You don't say where you are, which makes recommendations difficult. Welding alu is a bit hit and miss. How long the repair lasts will depend on the correct grade of filler being used and how well the post weld heat treatment is done. There are a few folk on here that can do it though.

On the motor spindle. Cranks are identical aside from the pedal threads.

Just had a random thought, if both sets of pedals are flats it's possible the cranks are on backwards. It's possible with ebike cranks.