droo

Here's your issue (IMO). Wider rims can get away with much lower pressures. The AC MTB 29 are 21mm internal, the Spanks will be closer to 30. Get a decent pressure gauge and experiment. Doesn't need to be digital, just needs to be consistent. Or if you don't have a decent floor pump, Ryder do a great one with a digital gauge.

Indeed...

If you roll over the first time, you create the expectation that you'll do it again.

IIRC some trials bikes move the freehub to the crank so they can run smaller chainsets. I might be making this up though.

There are some SID 35 forks that will work with the 3 position lockout, but you'll need to keep your eyes open when shopping. Plug the serial number (found on the back of the crown) into trailhead.rockshox.com to confirm. For my money though, I'd look at a Fox 34 Rhythm, 34 Performance or 34 Stepcast with the GRIP damper. Listed in order of decreasing weight and stiffness. The GRIP damper will work with whatever remote you throw at it, and is about the most bombproof damper out there.

That's just got a ball valve instead of the check valve arrangement that either Presta or Schrader valves have. Means you can get air in faster, but at the expense of having to control the valve manually - if you just clip the pump head off all the air will escape, likely along with a good shower of sealant. I'm all for a gadget, but I suspect I'd poke myself in the eye with a pointy stick before committing to that design. The best design I've seen so far is the Reserve Fillmore - lots of air flow, easy to clear a clog, and stops the air from coming out - but at R 1 500 for a pair that pointy stick is gonna come in handy again.

You'd have to ride in some heinous mud for that to be an issue. I've seen far tighter clearances (admittedly rear wheel mostly) that have been fine.

If you're in CT I have one you can try.

Just match hole counts and you can rebuild with whatever rim you like, although you'll need new spokes. Pretty sure all the AC MTB wheels were 32H. Stans Arch MK4 is a good call, but not cheap (the EX have been out of production for years). Crest is a race rim, very light but not what you'd call durable. Raceface Arc are decent, if a bit soft, but come with a guarantee. If you're on a budget, Alex or Jetset. Not light, but about the best value you'll find. I would add Lyne to the list but they only do the Pulse (their lighter rim) in 28H.

Upgrading will be a bit of a waste IMO. Maintain it and ride it, or flog it and get something newer. Geometry and suspension in particular have come a long way since 2015, so rather put the upgrade fund towards something more up-to-date.

Put it on the rear wheel, ride to death. Like Hairy I probably wouldn't trust it on the front.

I think the takeaway is that people can be unreasonable. In this context - some ask stupid money for rubbish, some think they can offer peanuts for something decent. Sometimes these people are on opposite sides of the same advert. To turn this into a bleat about the classifieds platform, where thousands of good deals are made on a weekly basis, is a bit like putting your picnic blanket down next to the only dog turd in the park. Just move on.

It gets lonely in no mans land when you make your way up the start order...

Simple enough if you've done it before, but a few tiny bits to drop in the grass. Tech zone was definitely the right call.

I'd guess the tension spring has either snapped or popped out of its perch. Lock cage, remove back stop screw, remove cage pivot bolt, remove cage, and see what's what. Problem should be reasonably obvious once it's in pieces.

2.5kW of assist, 156 average HR, and my undertrained ass still almost beat him. Different strokes I guess.

No point buying one beer, so I'll get a sixer. Actually, while I'm here I may as well get a case. (One thing led to another and now I own a bottle store)

What frame? Will need model year as well. What cranks? Offset is important for chainline and can affect clearance. Get the right thing. CSixx will have the thing you need.

A light toasting with a hairdryer before you start usually does the trick, softens the glue up and it comes off with the sticker. You said residue though, so probably too late for this - a rag with some WD40 on it should dissolve and remove the gunk.

Lots of IDT strength and little to no experience riding in a peloton is unfortunately way too common in the racing-but-not-quite-racing groups. That said, 1C was remarkably well behaved yesterday. And 10 points to the wedge-shaped time triallist in the Embark kit who almost single handedly pulled about 100 people from Llandudno to the line at 45km/h+.

Sounds exactly like my day, in my case I just forgot to pack my climbing legs cos I got shelled by D on the way up Chappies as well. A PR is a PR though, so don't be too annoyed - at least it wasn't a 3:01.

Ja but the 140 spring is longer and therefore heavier (by the weight of 10mm of thin wall alu tubing)

Weather predictions in CT more than a week out. That's optimistic. If you want to know what the weather will do in CT, look out of the window on the day. And if you don't like it, wait 5 minutes. Or ride 5km.

The Lefty project? I have some knocking about but in CT, so some courier charges will be incurred...

There's a Spank agent in CT and he's pretty well stocked, PM me if you don't manage to sort locally.