droo

@tinmug your last post shows you actually know nothing about the brand, so I'd say your 20 odd posts slagging them off are a bit unwarranted. They are designed in Stellenbosch by a local team who have put quite a lot of time and effort into them. The geometry and kinematics are far more up to date than most bikes of an equivalent price,and the frames also have a transferable 5 year warranty, not that it's likely to be needed in my experience. They are indeed manufactured in the East, but show me a something that isn't and won't set you back R 60k just for a frameset.

Titan all the way. Much more up to date geometry, which will make the biggest difference to the ride. You'll take a while to get used to it, which is why you didn't notice much difference on the test ride. The components on that Silverback aren't good enough to justify a 6 year old frame IMO.

My advice would be to ride a SRAM-equipped drop bar bike for a few days before you make the call - you either get on with their shifters or you don't. I don't, and I've tried. But, as above, YMMV.

Depends what you're trying to achieve. If you're doing a 1x conversion you should get away with an 11-40, though you may need a longer B screw. If you're trying to keep it 3x, then in the 22/40 combo you'll be going so slowly you'll fall over, even if you can get the combo to work.

If by pedestrians you mean muggers, then yes...

Build it and they will come, I reckon. There's a massive cohort who spend a lot more than they'd like (or can afford) on private transport simply because there's no workable alternative. Even just getting the existing railways up and running again would make a huge difference to the number of cars on the road, and I reckon most of these would be the beater ex-Uber mobile chicanes with a top speed of 40 and the situational awareness of a carpenter bee. Back in the day (and you're old enough to remember this) the trains were packed at commute times, and weekly or monthly passes were way more affordable to the working classes than taxis or keeping a car running that should have been scrapped 10 years ago.

Do yourself a favour - skip the pootube videos, go direct to the manufacturer's website and download the service manuals. I've made a fair bit of money from people's youtube hacks. Also, don't neglect dampers - lowers and air can will definitely keep your suspension running smoother in between rebuilds, but the full deal does need doing every 150 hours or so.

Agreed, a bike lane only works if it's enforced as a bike lane. As it stood before the resurfacing, it was a green stripe for cars and delivery scooters to stop in, so its absence makes absolutely no material difference. In places where the lanes are separate from the roadway, they're either full of pedestrians, hawkers or motorcycles. IMO the only thing that bike lanes do in CT is give ammo to people who feel that bikes shouldn't be on the road.

I did the Hemel-en-Aarde - Karwyderskraal portion a few weeks ago, nothing to report. Can't comment on the return leg though.

It isn't until it is. Once the thread bottoms out, you're done.

+1 on a sticky B knuckle. Can be a pig to get out, I often have to press them out with a vice if they get proper stuck. A good thing to add to your service routine every now and then.

Without actually measuring up your components I can't tell you what your lengths should be, but I can tell you that your rear lengths are out. A 10mm difference in length means 2 different lacing patterns. If the front is also not tensioning up I'd go with a lacing error. Lacing is far easier to get wrong than it is to get right, especially first time out.

That noise sounds like the air spring equalising, but it does sound quite a lot louder than normal - I'd need to strip the air spring to see what the issue could be though.

Service it, unless you'd prefer to spend at least 5 times as much on replacing it every year or two.

Formula have a few different hoses, 2 of which have proprietary fittings swaged on to the end. Check which fitting is on the caliper end and send the photo to whoever you're ordering from so you get the right thing.

One less rattle on your bike, be happy. Just don't leave your multitool at home now.

You can use inserts with one-piece lenses, or you can use any sunglasses with separate lenses - but either way you'll need the optometrist to work out where your eyes are pointing when on the bike, which is usually higher than the straight ahead position they usually use. It affects where they put the focal point of the lens, which in turn will affect how well they work. 0.75 isn't much, but in low light conditions it does make a difference.

You also need to reconnect the chain with as much slack as you can and pedal a few strokes to allow the chain to find which gear it'll settle in before you shorten the chain. The chainline and shifting ramps will decide this for you, and if you attempt to influence it the system may destroy itself.

Shell width. If you got the external one your spindle would be too short.

T47 internal GXP is what you're after. WheelsMFG make one and the agents have stock. They're not cheap, but the bearings are replaceable so it's a buy once part. Pretty sure there will be others on the market, I just like Wheels because of the availability of spares.

Edge 130 is about the best entry level Garmin unit that will work with the Varia or Magene units. I have one for not (that many) many ZARS if you'd like. 530 has some vary useful training metrics added on (and is the reason I'm not using the 130 anymore) but is about double the price on the second hand market.

Hard to say without the problem in front of me, but in order of likelihood: 1. You've bent the lever. Crash damage, bike upside down for trailside repair, introduction of knee or other hard body part. 2. It's just worn out. Pin groove or bushing is knackered. 3. Initial cable tension assessment incorrect. I've fixed many of these, but sometimes replacement is the only way.

^^ With a MTB, weight is your main consideration unless you feel like endless faff with the oversized and overweight baggage departments wherever you travel. For trail and enduro bikes even the Evoc and Thule options can push you over the limit.

Plenty. Same question as always though, what hubs?

I've had mixed experiences with the Levels. Some sets are great, some are pants. Still haven't figured out why.