droo

Looks like all the Mavic stuff has been taken off their site, best to give them a shout and see if there's anything left in a box in the warehouse or if it's all been tossed. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance.

Not really, otherwise you may end up with someone who started at the back taking the category win without crossing the line first. The bigger bunches at some events can take ages to get moving.

Post the part numbers you need and I'll check for you.

Or you've been tweaking them to compensate for a bent hanger...

Does he still ride bikes recreationally?

First prize, if you have to hit something, is using the driver as a cushion. But this is more down to blind luck than planning. I prefer to just stay out of the opening radius of the door where I can - but even this isn't always possible, nor does it account for coupe doors.

Pretty sure you'd be able to order a set, there is a local agent. Shout if you'd like me to find for you.

"A DIY solution" is a very broad spectrum, I haven't seen what you're capable of... no offence meant, but I've seen some questionable work in my time. But yes, getting it in straight is the most important bit. And the easiest thing to break in the process is the sleeve between the two cups, which will go out of alignment if a mouse farts in the next room. This is one of those jobs that I'd say either get the tool or get the LBS to do it for you. Unless you have a carpenter's bench vise, which is about the only non-standard tool I can think of with big enough parallel jaws to get the job done.

I'd guess your problem is that the frame isn't supported close enough to the BB for you to be able to get enough shock through the interface to knock it out. Ideally a block of wood with a hole in it the size of the OD of the BB would work to support the frame so you can get a proper whack in, but that's a very specific size of bit you'd need to make it. Making 2 V blocks might be easier to do but more difficult to manage on your own. That extractor should do the job if you're up for buying tools, but for a quick and dirty fix you can knock the bearing out of the shell which should remove enough of the preload to get the shell out. afterwards. To get the bearing out, lay the shell flat on a block of wood for support - no need for anything special, you'll be able to move it enough just on a flat surface to get it loose, then back in the stand for the last bit.

The fork is way easier to swap out than the shock, especially on the Orbea shock which is proprietary. PM me the 4 digit code on the back of the fork leg and a photo of the top view of the current lockout spool if you need the part number.

There have been others since then, and some even older than yours...

Just that lefty would make me walk away. The last restoration I did on one of those was about R 3k, and only because I was lucky enough to find spares, and if you wanted to replace it with any other fork you're in for a new front hub.

The fibre stuff comes off with the tyre, cos it's poo. The adhesive sticks to the bead of the tyre and the rim bed better than it sticks to the tape itself. Cleanup takes about half an hour per rim. @ChrisF paraffin or artist's turps is the quickest way we've found to get rid of the glue.

Depends very much on what kind of riding you'll be doing. If it's anything reasonably spicy consider a replacement steerer tube.

Just be aware of the downtime if you break or wear out anything on a frame with no local support. And get a spare RD hanger with the bike.

Try @Richiespares, he's always got heaps of Shimano smalls.

I think for us ballies race is a very strong word. There will likely be a bunch of us going up next year. It's a decent excuse to get out of town, and there's a decent brewery out there too.

Also you need a strong stomach for when you find a month old banana in the bento box...

Your last line is the important bit, As other have said it will break, probably before you'd like it to, but in the meantime you have something to ride, and as a side effect you may well learn quite a lot about bike maintenance in the process. While you're riding, learn as much as you can about what's out there - it's a pretty technical pastime as you've probably gathered, but ride with a few of the right people and you'll get some good advice along the way. One of the most important things will be to work out what size frame you need, so when you're ready to upgrade ride as many bikes as you can get your hands on. We were all noobs once, even if there are some who have forgotten it...

Magicshine SF900. Comes with Gopro mount to fit under a Garmin mount, will last forever on flash mode, and can be used to see where you're going up to about 40km/h.

Yeah, that was us. Someone took the solo line through the circle and took down 2 of our team. One guy in a cast as of Tuesday, but he finished. The break may have happened a few weeks before though. The other guy hit the deck pretty hard right in front of me and escaped without so much as a roastie. Ninja skills. @Dale we were trading places with you and Tertius from the top of the hill to the second feed zone, would have said hi if I'd known.

It's a break. Just backwards. Glad I saw you when you still looked like you were having fun, onwards and upwards to next year...

Pretty much bang on. Depending on how aggressive your roadie setup is and what sort of terrain you'll be riding you may want a slightly more upright seating position, but stems are cheap enough that you can experiment. Just leave a bit of steerer so you can raise and lower until you find out what's comfortable. Just bear in mind that too short a stem on a drop bar can get a bit twitchy in the drops, but that'll usually only be at around the 60 - 70mm mark depending on bar reach.

Back in the days of "a real climber would never fit a 25". Makes my ageing knees hurt.