droo

Yeah, 100k + for a wheelset is not for the thrifty, that's for sure. I'm just not a fan of disposable things, no matter how shiny.

The tools and consumables you'll need to do it will cost more than the service the first time round, beyond that it'll pay itself back. You'll need a clean work area and a bench vise to start. Service manual here. DM me if you need spares, tools etc, otherwise if you let me know where you are I can point you to someone who can do it for you. We can do nationwide turnaround within a week, but it's obviously easier if there's someone local. And yes, your techie is half right - that is normal for a Reverb. When it needs service.

I really wouldn't stress about that unless you've got cash to burn. Just make sure there are no sharp edges that could damage seals and go ride (when you can). Definitely sounds like you saved the bike at your own expense, hope you're back at it soon though.

Compared to the fork oil, yes. Although both the Motul ones have a higher viscosity @ 40C - the VI 400 is way more stable through the temp range. Again academic, cos they don't make it anymore. Maxima - 14 @ 40 / 4.2 @ 100 / VI 228 Motul VI400 - 16.3 / 6.2 / VI 400 Motul 2.5 FL - 15.0 / 3.5 / 112

The VI of the Maxima stuff that RS uses is double that of the Motul fork oil, how much of a difference that makes will depend on how hard you're pushing the fork. The VI400 is higher than the Maxima, but they don't make it anymore so it'll only work if you can find some old stock somewhere. Viscosities are all close enough as makes no difference.

Keep left, pass right. Riding, driving, walking, escalators... so many things would work so much better if people could work out why this is a thing. On avoiding the guys riding like knobs - there were one or two on 99er that ended up one wheel in front of me every time I stopped actively avoiding them. It was exhausting trying to keep them at a safe distance.

If you want to know what the weather will be like in CT, look out of the window. Sometimes you'll get outside to find you looked out of the wrong window. And if you don't like what you find, wait 15 minutes.

A saddle that's too narrow does similar. And takes your shoulders along for the ride.

I suspect DSTV will make sure it's blocked here. KODI FTW. These folk all seem to forget that the only way paid streaming services took off like they did is that they were cheap and marginally less hassle than piracy.

What spoke pattern do yours have?

Then I'm afraid you'd need a stepladder to get on the spare bike I have. Was worth a try though.

How tall are you?

Looks like it's got mounting holes on the bottom, so the K Edge one that Splat posted is probably your best bet. Their mounts are usually modular as well, so if you switch computer brands you'll just need to swap out an insert.

Find a Garmin mount with a gopro fitting on the bottom. What bar / stem combo do you have?

Paging @andretraut - maybe you've got some input here?

That's 100% a consequence of it being a better tyre, not the width... Stock tyres on most new bikes are the cheapest and nastiest things the purchasing manager could find.

If the bolt is out it's pretty easy really. Find a slightly longer bolt that fits, and a nut and washer. Turn the nut on to the bolt so there's about 10 - 15mm of thread through the nut. Add the washer and thread the exposed bit of bolt into the bottle boss. Now hold the bolt still and tighten the nut onto the boss until the boss is tight again. Remove the bolt. Job done. A bottle boss is a rivnut - basically a threaded rivet. It just needs to be compressed again so it grips the wall of the tube. Or if you have access to a rivnut tool, just use that. But most people don't.

The only thing you might battle to find is chainrings - chains and cassettes are easy to find. And if you replace your chain before 0.5% wear you'll take a very long time to wear your rings (and cassette) out.

Zones look ok if he's using the LTHR model, but it's the 2 hours in zone 3+ at the start of a close to 5 hour ride that did it I reckon... I'd guess tailwind for the first half of the ride so nowhere to hide in the bunch and burned matches holding on. OP - it's not your gearing.

If it's currently 10sp it's an HG driver. I need to know what kind of hub you have so I can tell you if there's a compatible MS driver. 10t at the sharp end for better range, and the Shimano cassette and chain combo shifts infinitely better than SX / NX / Sunrace. Not saying it's the only way to go, but if it's an option it's definitely worth considering.

You'll have to crack 3 then. Not cos you'll look like a poser if you don't, but because there's no ways you're going for a slash in a green rocket wearing one of those.

Should be easy enough, bring it round and we'll have a look.

Frans Conradie to N7, through Thornton, into Pinelands, down Forest Drive to Raapenberg, onto Liesbeeck Parkway and straight through to town from there. 40km odd each way though, hope you're up for a big one if you want any of the Atlantic scenic stuff...

If you're looking at the 40c folders, tubeless all day. Stans Race, Enduro Gravel or Veyga Road sealant, pressures as per https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure. Remeber to pack some small plugs, you don't want to try to seal a glass cut with a standard MTB sized one. If you're looking at any of the wirebead options, tubes will be better. But rather go for the big folders, both for puncture resistance and because they'll look a bit less silly on a MTB.

If there's an incident there it won't matter whether you're 1km or 100km away. The whole of the greater Cape Town area is in its backyard.