droo

Only the inner cage is listed as a part in SRAM's catalogue, so if you're after the whole assembly it's SRAM you need to be annoyed with, not the agents. Same goes for the MTB stuff. They have improved a lot with the Transmission stuff, but a few years / series too late IMO.

My bad, misread the description. It might fit, but will probably be too long / a bit kooky looking for a road RD.

https://www.csixx.co.za/products/derailleur-cage?variant=39358101160013 You can even have custom laser etching for an extra R 150.

Think about that one for a second...

I've broken one crank bolt and zero allen keys. And the busted bolt was never going to come out any other way. The remains came out by hand once the tension was off.

Phone a friend, 2 pairs of hands are better than one. Also, make sure you've got a decent bench vise and that the tool's properly tight in there. If it can move it puts pressure on the leading edge which can cause the vise to break.

Yeah, the steel spindle will be more forgiving of seized bearings, but you'd be surprised what I've seen. The thing that I've seen cause that more often than anything else is dislodging the little blue seals during cleaning or reassembly. Be vigilant. And don't overtorque the preload collar bolt. It only needs a nip.

Snipping for clarity: Definitely a good idea to park it until you get the right adapter, there's a good chance of damage to your frame and axle if the bike isn't secured properly. Ignore the My E Training app except for calibration. The actual training part of it is useless. Rather look at Zwift / Rouvy / MyWhoosh / IndieVelo / Wahoo Systm. Many rabbit holes to go down on which one is best for you, but the native one is about as much use as a chocolate teapot.

Sorry to say, but that's not SRAM's fault.

Removing SRAM cranks is easy. Take the wheels off, put the hex key in to the bolt about 1/8 of a turn ahead of the crank, put on ground, stand on hex key. I have yet to find a crank I can't remove with this method. Then, when reinstalling, anti-seize on the spindle thread. Next time you'll get it off on the stand.

Any particular reason not to go DUB? I've found their BSA BBs to be pretty reliable and long lasting, and there are quite a few aftermarket options available if you want them. GX are reasonably priced and usually available, and I haven't seen failures. Otherwise Turbines are solid when you can get them.

https://powertoolrepairs.co.za/air-compressors/3543-compressor-direct-drive-050-litre-2-x-750w-tradeair-oil-free.html This is the one I have. Not silent, but orders of magnitude quieter than the two reciprocating ones I've owned before. I can take calls while it's charging, which is good enough for me.

Sounds like you're set up for 142mm spacing and your frame's 148. Check the mounting instructions.

Your bike still has to appear...

Those 4x4 compressors will move less air than a standard floor pump - you need something with a tank for DH casing tyres or sketchy conversions, but for a proper trail tubeless setup a floor pump is usually fine. 25l is ok, 50l is better. The direct drive ones are noisy and need maintenance, the oil free ones are expensive but quieter - but for the amount of time it'll spend actually running in a home workshop it won't make that much difference. If you want a demo I have both kinds at the shop, swing round and I can show you.

The DT Swiss R470 is a rim, and can be built onto any hub with the same number of holes. Post a pic of the rear hub, drive and non drive, and I might be able to tell you what you need.

Those S-Works cranks are super easy to misalign during installation. I'm guessing pre-show panic building and not having the extractor tool are what caused that.

A Sunrace cassette will be fine for a trainer, no need to get anything fancy. Wahoo vs Elite - check with the local agents - Ikhambi and Omnico - about service and spares, that would be my decider.

Two thousand and nein danke.

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1278/bicycle-rear-derailleur-compatibility/#1 10 speed ROAD RD Rear shift ratio is 1.7, so it’s compatible with all the 6 to 9 speed shifters, as well as road 10 speed shifters. Same rear shift ratio. MTB 10 (and 11 speed) shifters won’t work well. Exception is Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 speed road RD – it has the same shift ratio as Shimano road 11 speed RDs, so it will work only with Tiagra 4700 shifters and Shimano 11 speed road shifters. Another exception is the new “gravel” group (with hydraulic brakes): Shimano GRX. Caple pull wise it’s the same as Tiagra 4700. 10 speed MTB RD Rear shift ratio of this RD is about 1.2. It is only compatible with Shimano 10 speed MTB shifters and nothing else. Shimano calls this system Dyna-Sys. There are a few caveats here. See below, my comment on 10/11 Shimano MTB RDs. Magura calipers will be compatible, since both they and Shimano use mineral oil.

A cone spanner is cheaper than a wheel build. I'd guess that the reason your hubs are needing adjustment every 500km is because the jam nut isn't tight enough. Start there. Chat to your LBS rather than just looking online, they'll be able to find you one. If you want to replace, then rather than throwing a bunch of cash at rebuilding a wheel with an entry level rim, consider either a second hand wheel or wheelset (find something that you can get spares for) or a decent budget option like Lyne. Wheels are one of the most important components of a bike so it'll be money well spent.

If I was paying a grand a month to have the same issues as a Tiz stream I'd be fuming...

Ja those extenders are ugly as sin. Good job getting rid of it, I had to change from 11-42 to 11-36 on my commuter to get rid of mine, and I'll take the loss of range anyday.

If it was a MTB tyre I'd run it to death on the rear wheel. But given that it's a road tyre I'd bin it, given the speeds and the tiny air volumes. If you do feel the urge to ride it to death, make sure it's on the back.

If I was looking for a lightweight road bike on a budget I definitely wouldn't discount rim brakes, but I'd definitely make sure the bike could take 28s. Just keep an eye on rim wear, especially if you're doing a lot of riding in wet conditions. If versatility trumps weight, look for a steel gravel bike - I found one with Ultegra hydro for about 20k. Not light, but does everything, and meets the Wookie's radness guideline even though I'm never going to win a race on it (which I still wouldn't even with a R300k superbike).