droo

Is it the steel hardtail? If so I've seen a few with this issue, chat to Silverback and see what they say.

As most have said - training wheels are a terrible idea because they don't allow you to lean, which is how a bike turns. Put your mate on a bike with a saddle low enough that they can touch the ground with both feet. Get them to scoot about using their feet and they'll find that the bike stays upright all by itself. Lean to turn and the bars will positon themselves correctly if you let them - look up countersteering for an even easier way to do it. Bikes balance themselves, learning to ride one is all about training your brain not to get in the way. If nerves are a factor, find some knee and elbow guards rather than stabilisers.

Must have been deadly in a TT...

Good to hear, those hubs are bulletproof so it's good to know that you'll get more life out of it.

Yup, local agents have in stock. PM me if you want me to order for you.

Missing link is ebike friendly and not much else at the moment. On a gravel bike it's definitely type 2 fun. Kloof Nek circle to Rhodes Memorial, then down to green belts, Diep River trail, Tokai, Silvermine, Ou Wapad and back over Chappies would make a good loop for some distance although not all gravel.

Scurvy inbound...

The ridge wasn't your problem, the thickness was. Anything below spec, especially on an ebike, and it's time to replace. If it's an IceTech rotor, then by the time you get down to about 1.2mm you're past the steel friction material and down to the alu core in places, which will make horrible noises.

Replace bushings and stanchions at the same time or you're wasting your time. Damaged bushings will destroy stanchions, worn stanchions will destroy new bushings. And keep up with your service intervals when you've sorted it out, As to your original post - a fork with a touch of stanchion wear can't be called "in good condition". RS forks are tough, by the time the anodising has worn off it's been properly pulled though its poephol.

Could be many things - if it is the fork you'll need to drop lowers to find out whether it's spring, damper or CSU. From the way you describe it I'd guess damper, when last was it serviced?

Nice to look at, can be painful to work on depending on how well designed the system is. Can also be good money for workshops - especially when you need to replace hoses and cables every time you change a headset bearing. Which, when the cables run though the headset, is often.

The quick fix is a tailgate pad. You'll use it later no matter which way you end up going with the long term solution. Otherwise if you already have a towbar and you hate your bike you can use one of those clip on two stick things.

Tailgate pad for day trips, for longer missions the solution depends on a few things - canopy, armadillo cover or open, how much you want to put in the back, and will you be taking the bikes anywhere with tree cover. Canopy and no height restriction - roof rack. Canopy and height restriction - towbar rack. Armadillo cover - Skitch crossbars. Open - tailgate pad.

Every problem we have today was once a solution to an earlier problem. Cars were touted as the clean solution cos they don't crap everywhere like horses.

Ruan at Spokeworks should be able to help you. And yes, those CXD bearings are extortionate. But we don't know what bearings OP has been fitting - if they're R20 BMG specials then the MAX should be fine. If they're already decent bearings, then the CXD may be worth the extra cos they'll last the lifetime of the frame.

Enduro MAX - 6 month warranty. Enduro CXD - lifetime warranty. Those SKFs are proper as well, but only available in standard sizes. You could probably convert to a bushing, but you'll end up going through bolts instead of bearings, and that'll end up costing you way more.

Omnico, they've been the only ones around for years. We should be seeing some of their drivetrains in the next 6 months or so - no word on pricing yet cos it's still too far out.

If you have SRAM brakes on any of your other bikes, or you have mates who do, drop the cash and get the SRAM Pro kit. It's about half a million bucks, but so much better than any of the generics that it's worth it. Also, I've had mine in use in a shop for 10 years and it's still going strong - I've only had to swap the hoses out once in that time, and it was a 10 minute job with a roll of vinyl hose I got from a plastics company.

Follow him down a hill and see if he needs one?

Yeah, but a platform rack will do way more than save your tyres. They're way more stable and easier to use. Unless you drive a previous gen Fortuner or a Cayenne, then you'll need deflector plates as well.

It's alive!

Lyne do an externally routed dropper which won't break the bank. If you want to drill your frame, the main thing is to make sure the finishing of the hole is 100% - any stress risers are cracks waiting to happen.

1. Be glad you don't have carbon rims. 2. Get a proper (platform) bike rack as soon as possible, since you already have the towbar. Those hang on things are a good way to wreck bikes. 3. Like Morne said, stick a mushroom plug in it and ride it on the back. IF it fails at least it's a walk home and not a crash.

He lives in Muizenberg though. There everyone wakes up and chooses lentils.

The spring going pap isn't really an issue - the two big ones are breaking stuff if the chain is too short to make the big/big combo, and the fact that on the horizontal parallelogram RD designs, the distance between the top pulley and the cassette is controlled by the offset between the pulley and the pivot point, which is in turn controlled by the angular position of the cage. This makes the chain length crucial to achieving the best shifting, and chain length on Eagle drivetrains is typically one link shorter than you think. Drivetrain wear is a total non-issue from this, think of the chain tension from pedalling compared to a derailleur spring... that spring won't get you moving even on a flat piece of road.