droo

Probably insurance for the bill you get after a few InReach messages...

If the Reba that it's replacing is in decent shape he'd be going backwards by doing this, but it'll still hold the front wheel on for a while, so technically still functions as a fork. There will be enough bushing play to annoy most people, and the small bump sensitivity will be nonexistent even with an oil change. If you bring the Reba in for a service I might be able to give you some discount for the dead fork - depending on condition I may be able to use some of the spares to save someone else's day. ChatGPT is sadly well misinformed on some of the specifics, that's a SID XX which hasn't been produced since (I think) 2015. No CSUs available anymore, so I'd need to replace individual stanchion tubes and bushings which isn't a cheap job.

I mean, it could be for donkeys?

RS bushings are replaceable, you just can't get parts from Rockshox. I have heaps of spares though. So is buying a new fork every year or two IMO, but to each their own...

If the lowers are still good I have a CSU for you. Hopefully the rest of you is ok.

Thanks @RobertWhitehead. You are indeed on the money there (more on this theme in a bit.) @LucasV that's caused by hundreds of hours of neglect. Think of it as 100 000km in your car without an oil change. From what I can see there that's a 2014 / 2015 SID, so you won't get OE parts for it anymore. We can sort, but at R 6k + (assuming both sides are shot) you're probably better off looking for a replacement that's in better shape and keeping up with your servicing.

Still better than the Fresh Stop sandwich board (of which I have a photo somewhere) that abbreviated one of their fruit offerings to "Ass Grapes". And the less said about apostrophe abuse the better.

If you have any interest in learning to work on bikes, this is a good opportunity. You'll need a few basic tools, some grease and the Park Tool website. Start with looking up how to service hubs, BB and headset and see if the tooling is in your budget - there are kits from Bikehand that won't break the bank. If you're going to pay someone else to do it you'll end up spending more than it's worth.

Got 2 pairs of the OE Standard in stock, DM me if you're interested.

Chuck that Mavic skewer and get a Shimano XT or DT RWS. Either of these options will give orders of magnitude more clamping force which should solve your problem. If that doesn't work, chaintugs will be the easiest off-the-peg solution.

This is useful info, thanks. Been looking at moving to 1x for extra range but the 11-42T isn't enough for a do-everything bike so it's good to know that I can get a few extra teeth with an RX822. Guess I'm collecting parts again...

RD - Ultegra RX or GRX RX810 if you're keeping it 2x, otherwise RX812 if you're going 1x. FD - I suspect you'll need a matching Ultegra or GRX cos 11sp road FDs are borderline impossible to set up properly even if they are a correct match for the shifter, I'd hate to try to bodge something functional.

A coaster brake would round this off nicely...

Shots fired! (Not even remotely inaccurate though)

Oakley is owned by Luxottica, so they most likely are aware. They used to be pretty good with replacing lenses, I had quite a few pairs back in the day - but in my case it was only the polarised lenses that peeled after about 5 years. Walked in to their store in Black River Park and got sorted for a few hundred bucks in about half an hour. No more, it seems.

You can pull the axle out with the freehub on so you don't have to take the nut off the janky end, so at least there's that. It's held in compression by the through axle, so the failure won't be catastrophic - but when it does go it'll break at the step between the freehub bearing end the spacer.

Try a Specialized store. I suspect those axles are the same as the in Formula hubs used on the Comp-level Spez wheels from the same era.

Try Olympic Cycles. They're a dealer and have been for a long time, and they're well known for having a collection of arcane spares. Wheels Manufacturing make one, but the local distributor doesn't have it on their system. They will probably be able to order though.

I'll have to see how many levers and eyelets I have, currently unpacking in the new shop so if it exists I'll find it in the next few days.

Handraulic. Send them to me, I'll get it sorted.

You could swap it out for a small fire, a large hammer, or a standard lever.

Those remotes are push to unlock, so if the lever is in the compressed position and it's still locked there's not enough fluid in the system. If it's been bled recently then you've got a leak - find out where the oil is coming out and you have your answer.

Sis.

Pretty respectable for a bombproof alloy allroad wheelset.