droo

I think for us ballies race is a very strong word. There will likely be a bunch of us going up next year. It's a decent excuse to get out of town, and there's a decent brewery out there too.

Also you need a strong stomach for when you find a month old banana in the bento box...

Your last line is the important bit, As other have said it will break, probably before you'd like it to, but in the meantime you have something to ride, and as a side effect you may well learn quite a lot about bike maintenance in the process. While you're riding, learn as much as you can about what's out there - it's a pretty technical pastime as you've probably gathered, but ride with a few of the right people and you'll get some good advice along the way. One of the most important things will be to work out what size frame you need, so when you're ready to upgrade ride as many bikes as you can get your hands on. We were all noobs once, even if there are some who have forgotten it...

Magicshine SF900. Comes with Gopro mount to fit under a Garmin mount, will last forever on flash mode, and can be used to see where you're going up to about 40km/h.

Yeah, that was us. Someone took the solo line through the circle and took down 2 of our team. One guy in a cast as of Tuesday, but he finished. The break may have happened a few weeks before though. The other guy hit the deck pretty hard right in front of me and escaped without so much as a roastie. Ninja skills. @Dale we were trading places with you and Tertius from the top of the hill to the second feed zone, would have said hi if I'd known.

It's a break. Just backwards. Glad I saw you when you still looked like you were having fun, onwards and upwards to next year...

Pretty much bang on. Depending on how aggressive your roadie setup is and what sort of terrain you'll be riding you may want a slightly more upright seating position, but stems are cheap enough that you can experiment. Just leave a bit of steerer so you can raise and lower until you find out what's comfortable. Just bear in mind that too short a stem on a drop bar can get a bit twitchy in the drops, but that'll usually only be at around the 60 - 70mm mark depending on bar reach.

Back in the days of "a real climber would never fit a 25". Makes my ageing knees hurt.

I've just been through this exact exercise, ended up with 11-36 PG-1130 cos it's all you can get in that range. Shimano maxes out at 11-34. Ultegra 50/34 rings up front. RD capacity - Ultegra RX or GRX RD-810 are rated for 34T max casssette but the extra 2 teeth on the 36 works ok. Shifting can be a biit fiddly to set up but works well enough when you get it. The 40T rated capacity is only 1 short of the 41T range of the compact/11-36 combo. I find gearing a bit tall when hitting 18% climbs at the end of a long day (Gallows, anyone?) but I'm too proud to walk so I haven't had to yet. Your only other option while keeping the rest of your setup is a GRX crank which can take you down to a 30T, which should be enough to climb a wall.

There you go. TT measurement is more important than ST measurement in working out whether a bike fits you. Longer torso and longer arms = longer TT. And linked to this is mobility, the lower you can get while staying comfortable, the longer you can go. As per the other thread on bike fit, just cos it works for you doesn't mean it'll work for someone else.

Will save you much faffing. If she's already got your measurements she may even be able to recommend based on TT length or reach.

Beat me to it. This is the correct answer. A spare hanger isn't a terrible thing to have in your toolbox, but don't expect it to be straight on first fitment,

Chain length, B gap adjustment or clutch tension, or a combination of the 3. Either that or your cable is kinked.

Hopefully you don't live up to your username.

Ja but Epic you get to bring a friend.

Gravel bikes suck at everything, but they can do anything. It's what makes them fun. If you ride bikes for fun you probably have a screw loose and an odd relationship with pain (an observation, not a judgement, just to be clear.) So it's worth a try if you have the opportunity,

I feel you don't know who you're talking to here. Not everyone on Bikehub is an armchair expert, some have real world experience too. You're working off a sample size of one, I guarantee you that John has a few more reference points.

We can also do it, about R 2 500 all in. Whether it's worth it or not depends on how nice the fork is.

What kind of sensor are you after? Speed will work off the phone's GPS, if you want HR or cadence you'll jut need to make sure whatever sensor you get transmits Bluetooth. The default is ANT which your phone won't pick up.

On the flipside, the number of R1m + cars I see with 200k worth of bikes flapping about on one of those clip on 2 stick jobs never ceases to amaze me. I reckon if you're using it often enough, especially shuttling, it'll be more than worth the investment.

The Google says Fruugo will just eat your money. If you have a lanyard then the 3d printed one should be fine, otherwise Dogears are the benchmark for this repair.

A pap RD spring will make for sluggish downshifts, not skipping. Upshifts will be fine. Similar symptoms to a worn cable. Replacing the wrong thing is a waste of money, even if you got it at a good price.

Shifter and RD should be the same, although with 12sp the pull ratios are close enough that it works ok. (Ok, not perfectly.) The RD most likely isn't your problem though.

It'll work fine, and the GX will last longer than a Shimano cassette too.

Triptych or Courier Guy. Have used both many times.