droo

Is this the DT Swiss one? RBC will service, response time is probably a bit slow due to Epic. If you're looking at replacing, rather go for the X Fusion than the Suntour, the Suntour is basically unserviceable.

100% agree with this. You can't blame me if my neighbour is a ****, and likewise you can't blame an entire community because there are some people in it that cause issues. I get the frustration from people who have been victims of the skollies, but I do kinda feel like it's being directed the wrong way.

No need to take the whole assembly apart, so no danger of dropping anything...

I've been using the same Shimano plastic tool for 13 years, still going strong... and it's in daily use in a shop. Still a silly system IMO, but I guess the plastic sleeve on the entry level pedals is cheaper to make and a hex made of plastic is not long for this world.

If you want proper easy service then the XT / SLX level are better cos you don't need the special plastic tool to take the axle out - they've just got a standard hex on the axle sleeve.

For serviceability and service life, Shimano all the way. Anything XT and below will outlive the apocalypse cockroaches.

Your window on race day before you roll out to the start. And there's a 50% chance it'll still be wrong.

Try a Specialized store. Many Roval wheelsets use DT hubs so they often have a drawer of spare bits.

"Looks like a Session" Both 4 bar (except the Skyrim is a Horst) Both sold by the same distributor Here endeth the similarities

And save some matches for the descent from Smits cos there's nowhere to hide in a bunch when there's a gale force tailwind. Found that out the hard way a few years ago.

#23 this year, total training will be the roll down to the start line from Tamboerskloof... hopefully 33 years of muscle memory can do the rest. 1E start group may get away from me a bit fast for my liking, so I'm most likely going to drop back to the alphabet soup to ride with a mate doing his first one with pastries en route. Been a while since I've done a social one. Good luck everyone, may it be a fun day out - whether it's type 1 or type 2.

This. Can be done, but results are a bit crap.

There should be a removeable cover where the cable exits the frame. Cables are made of martensitic stainless, so they're a bit magnetic - a pencil magnet will pick up the end of the cable and you'll be able to pull it through the hole at the end of the run. Otherwise pull the seatpost out and see if you can get in to the top tube from there to proctologist the cable through. I have owned quite a few internal routing kits and they're all a bit useless. You'll get a few uses out of them if you're lucky, but the swaged ends will either snag inside the frame or come adrift way sooner than you'd like.

Crowbar (the green plastic ones, not the demolition tool). The end.

Early pressfit designs creaked, newer ones very rarely. If it's been creaking for a while it can wear out the BB shell, at which point the thread-together models solve this problem. In the OP's case, the BB that fits a 30mm spindle into a 41mm BB shell is a horrible thing - expensive and prone to wearing out much quicker than it should. The Shimano crank transplant will definitely eliminate the BB as the source of the creak, but will involve another new BB cos it's 24mm. OP - did they by any chance replace your chain at the same time?

Bikeyoke make a replacement yoke that will allow you to fit a standard shock.

"BB creaks", especially on full suspension bikes, are far more likely to be pivot replated than anything else. A pivot service would be the first thing I'd do. While the crank is out for the pivot service, check the bonding at the pedal inserts and the spline insert, and check that the preload collar on the crank spindle hasn't cracked from being over torqued. Creak hunting is a process of elimination - the only time I'll guarantee that your bike won't creak is if I've done a full mechanical service. I'll also never trust even my own ears to work out where a creak is coming from - noises resonate through frames and present in completely different places to where they're actually happening.

This is good to hear - the number of marked traffic "enforcement" vehicles I see in my reasonably minimal amount of driving ignoring blatant violations is nearly 100%. Jumping lights, blocking intersections, driving on the wrong side of the road etc... the only things I see enforced are the odd parking violation and a whole lot of speed traps.

Most traffic law enforcement in SA is revenue- and convenience-driven. Lots of speed traps, near zero enforcement of moving violations. Much easier to sit under a tree with a radar gun to catch someone going 10km/h over the limit than to stop someone from doing a U turn across traffic over a solid line or driving like a muppet. Like Shebeen said, 2am and 5am roadblocks would do a much better job of catching drunk drivers than what they're doing (and shouting about loudly from the rooftops) now.

DH BB shells are 83mm wide, standard are 73mm - you'll need a DH crankset which has a longer spindle. But hopefully you've been in contact with Commencal and have this info already.

If you can find a DT with the right hole count, brake mount and OLD, you can just swap the freehub. I quite often see complete non-boost DT wheelsets in the classifieds that will cost about the same as a new 350.

Helicoil or solid insert. I have done this many times, as as long as it's done properly will last as long as the fork.

A level, a wall and a tape measure will go a long way. Level for reference against wall and floor for datum (cos walls and floors are never reliably straight), and a tape for the rest.

The Ryder one is suppository shaped, so you have options...

If the frame has a 44mm head tube you can change the lower headset cup and fit a tapered steerer, which will give you more options.