droo

1650g-ish?

The original is LiPo. And any replacement will be too.

At least you've got the dimensions now, so you can check RS Components or robotics or RC shops to see if you can find a reasonable match. A battery that size should be more like R 150.

The bench vise is a useful tool in this regard. Rereading your post I see you were talking about nipple to spoke head galling, not the threads themselves. So your solution makes sense. My standard solution for Mavic wheels with the silly spokes involves fire. But I've never been a fan of the system, so YMMV.

If it is galling then the rim destruction technique should work by releasing the spoke tension, shouldn't it?

Omnico's house brand from their Zini bikes. Tubeless may be a challenge, not sure about spare freehubs and the like if you break something. You get what you pay for here, so whether they work for you depends largely on what kind of riding you'll be using them for - although as with a lot of their stuff you could do far worse for the price.

While I understand this, the sport has some deep roots in counter culture and I, for one, would rather not see it end up here... And I can't be the only one who misses the old Rob Warner.

You need to bleed the remote and check it for leaks. If it's properly bled it'll unlock no matter what position the adjuster is in, the adjustment is for how stiff the lockout is when it's locked. As a test - you shouldn't be able to pull the plunger on the remote out any further when the adjuster is backed all the way out.

Bear in mind that the first ever prize for a MTB race was a bag of marijuana.

In that case, just set up according to sag and see how you go. On the Cypher I'd recommend 20 - 25%. If you can easily bottom the fork out at 25% sag then there's probably an issue with the air spring. If you're in CT you're welcome to bring us the bike and we can help you out with setup and assessment.

Ok, next question then... When you compress the fork, does it start to compress immediately and return gently or does it take a bit of force before it starts moving and top out with a clunk?

How old is the fork? Did you buy new or used?

It's the cheapest decent 4 pot brake on the market, and not much difference in performance between it and the M6120 - not at my level of riding anyway.

If I was shopping for brakes on a budget, these would be top of my list as well. Price / performance ratio is better than anything else I've seen.

A few things about Shimano brakes. The reason they tell you to bleed top down is because mineral oil floats on water, so any water in the system will be in the caliper and needs to be released from the bottom. The factory service manuals actually tell you to drain all the oil from the brake before refilling from the caliper end for the newer models where you bleed from the bottom up, but that's a great way to introduce stubborn bubbles since there's no way to vacuum a Shimano lever like there is with almost all others. The thing about a gravity bleed is that it's really simple... until it isn't. If you get a stubborn bubble in there it can be a proper pig to get out since you can't vacuum at the lever. The method that @ChrisF saw is about the most reliable but can burn through a lot of oil. Last thing, which applies to any brakes, is that inconsistent and mushy lever feel are most often caused by the calipers. If the pistons aren't returning properly and evenly the brake will feel rubbish. ON SRAM brakes, replacing caliper pistons is life changing. On Shimano brakes you have to replace the whole caliper since ''spare parts'' is a swear word to them, and on those older x85 series the levers may be on their way out as well so you're likely to end up replacing the whole thing anyway, just in stages. Not sure if any of this will solve your problem, but hopefully there's a bike nerd reading this that finds it entertaining.

Jared at Paint By Jared in Mowbray and CBR in Durbanville are the first 2 that spring to mind. You'd have to speak to them about pricing, and they'd probably need to see it first.

Can confirm. If this fits you it'll do exactly what you want. Alu HT with some nifty and effective vibration damping in the rear triangle. Decent build. (I'm the SA Banshee agent, so there may be an element of bias here...)

This. If you've got the cash, go DS. But don't spec down, especially wheels and suspension, to make a FS fit your budget. Also regarding maintenance - a FS will be around R 7k annually to maintain if you're riding twice a week (excluding consumables like tyres, sealant and any crash damage). HT is less than half that since there are fewer moving parts and one less squishy bit. Titans - spring for the Expert. The forks on the other variants will make you wish you'd gone for the Fox.

Bearings are standard sizes in those hubs - go to a bearing shop and get proper German / Japanese bearings and you should have a much better time. And service your freehub regularly - if that's where the contaminants are getting in, keeping it clean will go a long way.

Give CSixx a shout. Their customer service is pretty solid. https://www.csixx.co.za/pages/contact

Sounds like a popped bladder. You may be able to get a replacement locally, but I'd need the model number to tell you which one - your LBS should be able to check for you though. IF you can't get locally, SJS Cycles in the UK have most of Shimano's small parts.

I have a candidate for a ghost bike if needed

Same procedure as bleeding OG Shimano hydros - reset caliper pistons, remove reservoir cap, fill up the reservoir, open the caliper bleed port and wait for the fluid to flow through. If it doesn't, pull the lever a few times to start the siphon. Keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure the oil level doesn't get too low. When the bubbles stop coming out, close the bleed port, put a bleed block in, pull the lever repeatedly till no more bubbles come out of the timing port, fill up the reservoir again, replace bladder, replace cap, clean caliper, replace pads, replace wheel, ride bike.

It will. PM sent.

100kg on a lever that long would make my Forester do a wheelie. But if you're driving a bakkie or SUV you should be fine.