droo

A Sunrace cassette will be fine for a trainer, no need to get anything fancy. Wahoo vs Elite - check with the local agents - Ikhambi and Omnico - about service and spares, that would be my decider.

Two thousand and nein danke.

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1278/bicycle-rear-derailleur-compatibility/#1 10 speed ROAD RD Rear shift ratio is 1.7, so it’s compatible with all the 6 to 9 speed shifters, as well as road 10 speed shifters. Same rear shift ratio. MTB 10 (and 11 speed) shifters won’t work well. Exception is Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 speed road RD – it has the same shift ratio as Shimano road 11 speed RDs, so it will work only with Tiagra 4700 shifters and Shimano 11 speed road shifters. Another exception is the new “gravel” group (with hydraulic brakes): Shimano GRX. Caple pull wise it’s the same as Tiagra 4700. 10 speed MTB RD Rear shift ratio of this RD is about 1.2. It is only compatible with Shimano 10 speed MTB shifters and nothing else. Shimano calls this system Dyna-Sys. There are a few caveats here. See below, my comment on 10/11 Shimano MTB RDs. Magura calipers will be compatible, since both they and Shimano use mineral oil.

A cone spanner is cheaper than a wheel build. I'd guess that the reason your hubs are needing adjustment every 500km is because the jam nut isn't tight enough. Start there. Chat to your LBS rather than just looking online, they'll be able to find you one. If you want to replace, then rather than throwing a bunch of cash at rebuilding a wheel with an entry level rim, consider either a second hand wheel or wheelset (find something that you can get spares for) or a decent budget option like Lyne. Wheels are one of the most important components of a bike so it'll be money well spent.

If I was paying a grand a month to have the same issues as a Tiz stream I'd be fuming...

Ja those extenders are ugly as sin. Good job getting rid of it, I had to change from 11-42 to 11-36 on my commuter to get rid of mine, and I'll take the loss of range anyday.

If it was a MTB tyre I'd run it to death on the rear wheel. But given that it's a road tyre I'd bin it, given the speeds and the tiny air volumes. If you do feel the urge to ride it to death, make sure it's on the back.

If I was looking for a lightweight road bike on a budget I definitely wouldn't discount rim brakes, but I'd definitely make sure the bike could take 28s. Just keep an eye on rim wear, especially if you're doing a lot of riding in wet conditions. If versatility trumps weight, look for a steel gravel bike - I found one with Ultegra hydro for about 20k. Not light, but does everything, and meets the Wookie's radness guideline even though I'm never going to win a race on it (which I still wouldn't even with a R300k superbike).

Jared @ Paint by Jared in Mowbray.

Specific to the exact hub with Novatec, nevermind the brand. What model of hub?

Yes. Lyne test pretty much everything they make extensively before release. Not a sticky as Deathgrips, but last a bit longer and have a hard plastic end cap so they don't disassemble themselves as easily as the full rubber kind when you crash. Been on them for quite a while now and have no complaints. Was on ODI Rogue before.

Or just find a light that can run off USB while plugged in, A 10Ah power bank will set you back far less than a bike light battery, and can easily be strapped to a stem or stashed in a frame bag.

DM the cc_x_standert account on Insta, whoever runs the account will point you in the right direction.

If you've hit them with the impact wrench you're going to have a time. Godspeed.

You could probably get that out with a machined down bolt. But I'd suggest taking it to a machinist, you don't get too many chances at these things before they get proper FUBAR. I know a very good one in CT, but Secunda no doubt has some pretty experienced machinists and fitters who could sort this out for you.

A grub screw extractor will save you. I have a set of Grabits, sadly no longer available, that will sort that out in seconds. It's got a burnishing tool on one and and an extractor on the other. If anyone after me on this thread has found a tool that works as well, please let me know cos I'm dreading the day that they wear out.

Truecaller also does the chat without adding thing. Many ways to skin this cat.

If you hit your head against the wall often enough the wall will give way, no?

Looks like a bicyclepubes drawing...

How has the waterproofing held up after the repairs? I'm not keen on having a leaky unit (phrasing!) when I'm done, I get caught out in the rain quite a bit.

All my bikes and my car currently have knobbly tyres, so you're not wrong...

That's HG, not XDR. Not quite the same, even though they use the same spacer.

Finding one that still works is probably a bigger challenge. Most of the ones I've dealt with in recent years have found their way to the scrap heap.

Look, I'm partial to a bodge if I can't get the right thing, but as a mechanic with my shop logo as my avatar I'm kinda obliged to offer the textbook answer, particularly if I haven't personally tested the alternative...

If you want bombproof, that Hope / South combo is pretty attractive. Roval Terra CL / CLX have DT hubs so will also outlast most bikes and are better priced than you'd expect. Zipp hubs don't have the best reputation for longevity but they are light, so if weight is your aim and you've got bearing presses and pullers in your toolbox then they may be worth a look. Less so if you ride in wet or muddy conditions often. Their rims are sadly not available separately.