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droo

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Everything posted by droo

  1. For the 34 Rhythm (and anything with a GRIP damper) it's best to use the proper Fox oils in our experience. That said, Fox are out of stock of the 5W PTFE stuff that's meant to go in there, so the Motul 5W will do the job. As for the 20W fork oil, it's not the same stuff as the Gold 20W which is closer to a motor oil than a suspension oil.
  2. droo

    Shimano

    Aside from the hanger - clutch, B knuckle and pulley bearings are the most overlooked things that cause weirdness. Shimano 12 speed B knuckles are notorious for seizing up. Also check for bent teeth on the cassette.
  3. There are a few brands that do 96bcd, but CSixx is your best bet. You can order and customise on their website and you'll most likely have it by the weekend.
  4. Unfortunate really, I was hoping for a few really nifty improvements so I could pick up a 2 year old 7X Pro for a steal in the classifieds. My 5X will have to keep on keeping on for another while then I guess (not that there's anything wrong with it, just upgrade-itis).
  5. Rule 1: never trust the manufacturer's ERD number. Measure first, even if it costs you a few days. Ideally, and especially with carbon rims, measure at a few points.
  6. https://www.xoss.co/#/product/manuals The answer should be in here somewhere. Seems the Nav+ has base maps and the Nav just has breadcrumbs, but you'd have to be able to upload something for navigation and .gpx would hopefully be the default.
  7. Morewood's single pivot bikes used bog standard bearings, it's highly unlikely that anyone would have been able to find a bearing that was the wrong size and would actually fit (although in fairness I've been quite "impressed" by some of the hack jobs I've seen in my career.) IIRC it should be a 6003 - 17mm ID x 35mm OD x 10mm thick.
  8. Far less embarrassing to be told once, even loudly, than ride around for months with a window. It's one of the duties of your riding group, right up there with pointing out (other) road hazards.
  9. Only the inner cage is listed as a part in SRAM's catalogue, so if you're after the whole assembly it's SRAM you need to be annoyed with, not the agents. Same goes for the MTB stuff. They have improved a lot with the Transmission stuff, but a few years / series too late IMO.
  10. My bad, misread the description. It might fit, but will probably be too long / a bit kooky looking for a road RD.
  11. https://www.csixx.co.za/products/derailleur-cage?variant=39358101160013 You can even have custom laser etching for an extra R 150.
  12. Think about that one for a second...
  13. I've broken one crank bolt and zero allen keys. And the busted bolt was never going to come out any other way. The remains came out by hand once the tension was off.
  14. Phone a friend, 2 pairs of hands are better than one. Also, make sure you've got a decent bench vise and that the tool's properly tight in there. If it can move it puts pressure on the leading edge which can cause the vise to break.
  15. Yeah, the steel spindle will be more forgiving of seized bearings, but you'd be surprised what I've seen. The thing that I've seen cause that more often than anything else is dislodging the little blue seals during cleaning or reassembly. Be vigilant. And don't overtorque the preload collar bolt. It only needs a nip.
  16. Snipping for clarity: Definitely a good idea to park it until you get the right adapter, there's a good chance of damage to your frame and axle if the bike isn't secured properly. Ignore the My E Training app except for calibration. The actual training part of it is useless. Rather look at Zwift / Rouvy / MyWhoosh / IndieVelo / Wahoo Systm. Many rabbit holes to go down on which one is best for you, but the native one is about as much use as a chocolate teapot.
  17. Sorry to say, but that's not SRAM's fault.
  18. Removing SRAM cranks is easy. Take the wheels off, put the hex key in to the bolt about 1/8 of a turn ahead of the crank, put on ground, stand on hex key. I have yet to find a crank I can't remove with this method. Then, when reinstalling, anti-seize on the spindle thread. Next time you'll get it off on the stand.
  19. Any particular reason not to go DUB? I've found their BSA BBs to be pretty reliable and long lasting, and there are quite a few aftermarket options available if you want them. GX are reasonably priced and usually available, and I haven't seen failures. Otherwise Turbines are solid when you can get them.
  20. https://powertoolrepairs.co.za/air-compressors/3543-compressor-direct-drive-050-litre-2-x-750w-tradeair-oil-free.html This is the one I have. Not silent, but orders of magnitude quieter than the two reciprocating ones I've owned before. I can take calls while it's charging, which is good enough for me.
  21. Sounds like you're set up for 142mm spacing and your frame's 148. Check the mounting instructions.
  22. Your bike still has to appear...
  23. Those 4x4 compressors will move less air than a standard floor pump - you need something with a tank for DH casing tyres or sketchy conversions, but for a proper trail tubeless setup a floor pump is usually fine. 25l is ok, 50l is better. The direct drive ones are noisy and need maintenance, the oil free ones are expensive but quieter - but for the amount of time it'll spend actually running in a home workshop it won't make that much difference. If you want a demo I have both kinds at the shop, swing round and I can show you.
  24. The DT Swiss R470 is a rim, and can be built onto any hub with the same number of holes. Post a pic of the rear hub, drive and non drive, and I might be able to tell you what you need.
  25. Those S-Works cranks are super easy to misalign during installation. I'm guessing pre-show panic building and not having the extractor tool are what caused that.
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