droo

Better options for cassettes for sure, but will depend on the hub. OP - I have 2 11sp 105 cassettes for sale if you decide to go this route, 11-28 and 11-32.

LBS should have one in a spares bin, it's the same one you fit behind a Shimano 11sp cassette on an HG driver. You get them with most MTB wheelsets.

SRAM's road 11sp cassettes were HG, so the only 11sp XD from SRAM is MTB 10-42T. You can use the MTB stuff with a 1.85mm spacer. Aftermarket you can get the E13 XCX 9-34 which should work with the Ultegra 11sp (although not officially), but they're ********* pricy and rare as rocking horse poo. I'd love one but can't justify R4k + for a cassette that I'd have to import. There may be others out there, but the only ones I've seen are SROAD which I trust about as much as a politician.

If you can get the pedals out and the threads aren't damaged then the cranks are definitely on backwards, which makes sense since there was work done on the motor. There might be markings on the back of the cranks that tell you which side they should be on.

Cool, then PM @Snaagi. He's in CT and has done a few frames for us.

You don't say where you are, which makes recommendations difficult. Welding alu is a bit hit and miss. How long the repair lasts will depend on the correct grade of filler being used and how well the post weld heat treatment is done. There are a few folk on here that can do it though.

On the motor spindle. Cranks are identical aside from the pedal threads.

Just had a random thought, if both sets of pedals are flats it's possible the cranks are on backwards. It's possible with ebike cranks.

Met genoeg geweld kan jy jou vinger in jou poephol afbreek. Fixable with a set of inserts and the right oke to put them in, but if the threads are that knackered you may end up with a wobbly pedal. First check pricing on a replacement crankset, saving the old one may not be worth the effort.

Thank you, good people of the Hub. Contact made, device being boxed for shipping.

How have the folk on this thread been getting hold of Garmin? I haven't managed to get an email reply from them to date from 2 queries. Edge 530 clutched on yesterday's ride and would like to find out if there's anything I can do through the official channels before I bust out the heat gun and spadgers. TIA.

Stick to what the manual suggests. The damper will ingest oil from the lowers over time and if left too long this will cause the loss of travel that D&D has described. Also note that Manitou's service instructions state that oil height must be measured with the lowers fitted and the air spring inflated, which will affect the measurement a bit. Once you've set the height and closed everything up, release all the air from the spring and check that you're getting full travel. If not, consider adjusting the oil level.

I now have a mental image of an upside down bike on a credit card machine that I can't get rid of.

@tinmug your last post shows you actually know nothing about the brand, so I'd say your 20 odd posts slagging them off are a bit unwarranted. They are designed in Stellenbosch by a local team who have put quite a lot of time and effort into them. The geometry and kinematics are far more up to date than most bikes of an equivalent price,and the frames also have a transferable 5 year warranty, not that it's likely to be needed in my experience. They are indeed manufactured in the East, but show me a something that isn't and won't set you back R 60k just for a frameset.

Titan all the way. Much more up to date geometry, which will make the biggest difference to the ride. You'll take a while to get used to it, which is why you didn't notice much difference on the test ride. The components on that Silverback aren't good enough to justify a 6 year old frame IMO.

My advice would be to ride a SRAM-equipped drop bar bike for a few days before you make the call - you either get on with their shifters or you don't. I don't, and I've tried. But, as above, YMMV.

Depends what you're trying to achieve. If you're doing a 1x conversion you should get away with an 11-40, though you may need a longer B screw. If you're trying to keep it 3x, then in the 22/40 combo you'll be going so slowly you'll fall over, even if you can get the combo to work.

If by pedestrians you mean muggers, then yes...

Build it and they will come, I reckon. There's a massive cohort who spend a lot more than they'd like (or can afford) on private transport simply because there's no workable alternative. Even just getting the existing railways up and running again would make a huge difference to the number of cars on the road, and I reckon most of these would be the beater ex-Uber mobile chicanes with a top speed of 40 and the situational awareness of a carpenter bee. Back in the day (and you're old enough to remember this) the trains were packed at commute times, and weekly or monthly passes were way more affordable to the working classes than taxis or keeping a car running that should have been scrapped 10 years ago.

Do yourself a favour - skip the pootube videos, go direct to the manufacturer's website and download the service manuals. I've made a fair bit of money from people's youtube hacks. Also, don't neglect dampers - lowers and air can will definitely keep your suspension running smoother in between rebuilds, but the full deal does need doing every 150 hours or so.

Agreed, a bike lane only works if it's enforced as a bike lane. As it stood before the resurfacing, it was a green stripe for cars and delivery scooters to stop in, so its absence makes absolutely no material difference. In places where the lanes are separate from the roadway, they're either full of pedestrians, hawkers or motorcycles. IMO the only thing that bike lanes do in CT is give ammo to people who feel that bikes shouldn't be on the road.

I did the Hemel-en-Aarde - Karwyderskraal portion a few weeks ago, nothing to report. Can't comment on the return leg though.

It isn't until it is. Once the thread bottoms out, you're done.

+1 on a sticky B knuckle. Can be a pig to get out, I often have to press them out with a vice if they get proper stuck. A good thing to add to your service routine every now and then.

Without actually measuring up your components I can't tell you what your lengths should be, but I can tell you that your rear lengths are out. A 10mm difference in length means 2 different lacing patterns. If the front is also not tensioning up I'd go with a lacing error. Lacing is far easier to get wrong than it is to get right, especially first time out.