droo

Green one is a 10+ year old resprayed Merida 96, probably about market value. Stache is definitely priced to go...

You can also get a DSTV streaming account for R 300 for the month, although you probably won't get the Eurosport commentary.

I suspect this is an edge case that you won't solve for, even with all the effort in the world...

I've seen this a few times on GX chains, never NX though. SRAM should warranty if it happens within a year and with minimal wear. That said, NX and SX are designed to make you wish you'd spent the cash on GX instead. SRAM's entry level stuff is heinous. (Disclaimer - I'm a bit of a bike shob, so YMMV.) You're on 11sp, so I'd say fit a KMC X11 or E11 and be done. I've had great results with all their chains up to 11sp - 12 not so much, but that was a while back.

Before you go leak hunting, check that your caliper pistons are moving freely. If it is a leak, spares can usually be found on SJS Cycles in the UK. Just look up the part numbers on Shimano's tech docs and use them as your search term.

A bit noisy for the first few km while it's running in, but not much louder than a drip lube after that. Certainly nothing that annoys me, and I'm very much a "a quiet bike is a happy bike" sort.

I've been running the Enduro wax on my gravel bike for about 12 000 km, one new chain and one partially worn one that was on the bike when I got it. The partially worn one was at about 0.3% when I got it, and 6 000km later binned it at 0,4%. The new one is also at around 6 000km and shows zero elongation so far. Mixed conditions, reapplying usually between 300 and 400km (as soon as it starts to get noisy), and just a boiling water rinse and dry before reapplication.The longest interval I managed was around 600km, and the shortest was around 250km of wet and muddy riding. The initial clean is a bit of a faff, but other than that it just takes a bit of planning to make sure there's always a prepped chain waiting during big training blocks so there's no downtime.

Protune are the local Cane Creek agents, I don't see anything listed on their site, but if you drop them a mail I'm sure they'll give you the answers you need. protunebike.co.za

IF Fox don't have stock it's unlikely you'll find one just knocking about, it's a pretty specialised part that needs proper (read expensive) tooling and a decent techie to replace. As to cost, I can't quote on RBC's behalf but I'd imagine around R 3 - 4k including the service if that's the only worn bit. Things work until they don't. everything can appear fine until something obvious fails. The scratch is one thing, but that wear ring on the sag point definitely didn't happen overnight. Products like Brunox aren't a replacement for proper maintenance, they're there to complement it and reduce stiction after washing the bike. Most of what you spray on the exposed bit of the stanchion will be wiped off by the wiper seal long before it gets to the main seals. Forks and shocks are lubricated from the inside, and when that lubricant stops working you end up with what you have here. To add to your pain - once you've recovered from this, send your fork in. They're far more expensive to repair when things go south, and the service intervals are the same as the shock.

That's 100% lack of maintenance, and fixing it is an easy enough job when you can get the part. If there are no spares in stock you'll have to wait until there are. Either that or you're in for north of R10k for a new shock. Your call. Going forward, you can save yourself the hassle by getting your suspension serviced at the right intervals, which is every 150 hours or annually - whichever comes first. The position of the shock on a Spark means that the lubricant doesn't sit on the seal like it would if the shock was the right way up, so if you want to make properly sure this doesn't happen again, an air can service every 75 hours is advised. @DieselnDust Kashima won't save you here, lubricant will.

The ACT refers to the type of spring - it's an air assisted coil, which is why the pressure you need to run is so low. Sag beats pressure recommendations every time, so go with the pressure that gives you the correct amount of sag as a starting point and fine tune from there. As for the lockout - it's an old fork, so if it hasn't been serviced recently that would be a good thing to do. A decent service centre should pick up any issues while they've got it apart. Fresh seals and oil will do wonders for the ride quality. If you let me know where you're based I can recommend someone close by if you'd like to take it in yourself, or you can DM me and I can organise transport and service.

The unhappy ones can't review them cos they're upside down in a ditch. (I jest, but only a bit)

On a carbon steerer I'd be off to a carbon repair guy. No ways I'd trust an expander plug to hold a stem. Even when just using them for preload, you're meant to install them so the stem clamps over them, and you often can't get the headset spacers off without loosening the plug. That said, their suggestion that at least half the stem stack is on the original steerer would give me a bit more... not sure if confidence is the right word, but yeah.

You'll get a 170, not 172.5. 2.5mm increments are for roadies.

Without a mobility assessment this is just a fancy chart.

Could be the seal, could be a worn stanchion. The only way you'll find out is to strip the post. This may sound obvious, but remove the valve core before you start taking anything apart.

Just buy chain checker and replace the chain before it gets to 0.5%. Your cassette and chainiring will last at least 4 chains if you keep doing this - My GX Eagle cassette is on it's 5th chain and still going strong.

SRAM butter Slickoleum Millenium suspension grease RSP Slick Kick All of these will be way better than the stuff that Suntour use when assembling forks. Drop me a PM to order if you're not going near a retailer any time soon.

Depends if you point it forwards or backwards

Roadie / gravel - Magicshine SF1800. About 2 hours run time at 1800 lumens, which is enough for descending in full darkness. The 900lm setting is plenty for anything up to about 40km/h, and you'll get about 5 hours on that setting. Also has flashy modes if you want to be that guy. I've got mine mounted under my Garmin on the out front mount quarter turn adapter and just clip it off for daytime rides or in summer. Also works pretty well as a MTB head light if you're looking for a multi purpose thing.

New headset is about 2k. Not egregious as Cannondale spares go.

If it's at the first thread, it's a fatigue issue. New spokes all round, and make sure your wheel builder knows about stress relieving.

The Camber has a proprietary mount on one end, so you'll need a Spez Camber shock, or you'll need to fit a new damper body to a donor shock, and just the labour on that job is more than your budget. A second hand shock for R 600 will need a service at the very least, so I'd suggest you just get the shock you've got now serviced or repaired.

A client of ours had a rapid unscheduled disassembly of a QR carbon fork a few years back. His reviews of the experience were not glowing.

You get flat to post adapters. And through axle is far better than QR for disc brakes. You'll find way more options this way and have a better end product. Chat to Dave Mercer about forks, he's got access to many options.