droo

If you hit your head against the wall often enough the wall will give way, no?

Looks like a bicyclepubes drawing...

How has the waterproofing held up after the repairs? I'm not keen on having a leaky unit (phrasing!) when I'm done, I get caught out in the rain quite a bit.

All my bikes and my car currently have knobbly tyres, so you're not wrong...

That's HG, not XDR. Not quite the same, even though they use the same spacer.

Finding one that still works is probably a bigger challenge. Most of the ones I've dealt with in recent years have found their way to the scrap heap.

Look, I'm partial to a bodge if I can't get the right thing, but as a mechanic with my shop logo as my avatar I'm kinda obliged to offer the textbook answer, particularly if I haven't personally tested the alternative...

If you want bombproof, that Hope / South combo is pretty attractive. Roval Terra CL / CLX have DT hubs so will also outlast most bikes and are better priced than you'd expect. Zipp hubs don't have the best reputation for longevity but they are light, so if weight is your aim and you've got bearing presses and pullers in your toolbox then they may be worth a look. Less so if you ride in wet or muddy conditions often. Their rims are sadly not available separately.

Better options for cassettes for sure, but will depend on the hub. OP - I have 2 11sp 105 cassettes for sale if you decide to go this route, 11-28 and 11-32.

LBS should have one in a spares bin, it's the same one you fit behind a Shimano 11sp cassette on an HG driver. You get them with most MTB wheelsets.

SRAM's road 11sp cassettes were HG, so the only 11sp XD from SRAM is MTB 10-42T. You can use the MTB stuff with a 1.85mm spacer. Aftermarket you can get the E13 XCX 9-34 which should work with the Ultegra 11sp (although not officially), but they're ********* pricy and rare as rocking horse poo. I'd love one but can't justify R4k + for a cassette that I'd have to import. There may be others out there, but the only ones I've seen are SROAD which I trust about as much as a politician.

If you can get the pedals out and the threads aren't damaged then the cranks are definitely on backwards, which makes sense since there was work done on the motor. There might be markings on the back of the cranks that tell you which side they should be on.

Cool, then PM @Snaagi. He's in CT and has done a few frames for us.

You don't say where you are, which makes recommendations difficult. Welding alu is a bit hit and miss. How long the repair lasts will depend on the correct grade of filler being used and how well the post weld heat treatment is done. There are a few folk on here that can do it though.

On the motor spindle. Cranks are identical aside from the pedal threads.

Just had a random thought, if both sets of pedals are flats it's possible the cranks are on backwards. It's possible with ebike cranks.

Met genoeg geweld kan jy jou vinger in jou poephol afbreek. Fixable with a set of inserts and the right oke to put them in, but if the threads are that knackered you may end up with a wobbly pedal. First check pricing on a replacement crankset, saving the old one may not be worth the effort.

Thank you, good people of the Hub. Contact made, device being boxed for shipping.

How have the folk on this thread been getting hold of Garmin? I haven't managed to get an email reply from them to date from 2 queries. Edge 530 clutched on yesterday's ride and would like to find out if there's anything I can do through the official channels before I bust out the heat gun and spadgers. TIA.

Stick to what the manual suggests. The damper will ingest oil from the lowers over time and if left too long this will cause the loss of travel that D&D has described. Also note that Manitou's service instructions state that oil height must be measured with the lowers fitted and the air spring inflated, which will affect the measurement a bit. Once you've set the height and closed everything up, release all the air from the spring and check that you're getting full travel. If not, consider adjusting the oil level.

I now have a mental image of an upside down bike on a credit card machine that I can't get rid of.

@tinmug your last post shows you actually know nothing about the brand, so I'd say your 20 odd posts slagging them off are a bit unwarranted. They are designed in Stellenbosch by a local team who have put quite a lot of time and effort into them. The geometry and kinematics are far more up to date than most bikes of an equivalent price,and the frames also have a transferable 5 year warranty, not that it's likely to be needed in my experience. They are indeed manufactured in the East, but show me a something that isn't and won't set you back R 60k just for a frameset.

Titan all the way. Much more up to date geometry, which will make the biggest difference to the ride. You'll take a while to get used to it, which is why you didn't notice much difference on the test ride. The components on that Silverback aren't good enough to justify a 6 year old frame IMO.

My advice would be to ride a SRAM-equipped drop bar bike for a few days before you make the call - you either get on with their shifters or you don't. I don't, and I've tried. But, as above, YMMV.

Depends what you're trying to achieve. If you're doing a 1x conversion you should get away with an 11-40, though you may need a longer B screw. If you're trying to keep it 3x, then in the 22/40 combo you'll be going so slowly you'll fall over, even if you can get the combo to work.