MORNE

I also went there with that idea last weekend and only managed armageddon and monky top to bottom. It was crazy humid too. This weekend looks like pushing 30* again

Yea that off camber left turn right after the big drop will have me taking a go on it with flats again this weekend. Got unclipped there last time and just couldnt get back in…which sucked. And I swear it just happens at jonkers haha. Combo of the soil, hike a bike and rocks

Bump 1.5 weeks to go!

Also got my email today, but think I might give 2024 a skip. I said it will be 30*+ and windy after all….

“Amish mtb components FTW” - disgruntled SRAM AXS owner. i run a bar end shifter on my gravel bike. I like manual cars. I enjoy the involved act of cycling. I maintain that in an overcomplicated world I crave simplicity in the things I value most. I see the value in this new hangerless bs…but please don't take away load-shedding addition rear derailleurs😅 Aint nobody got time (or electricity) to worry about charging a fn bicycle.

Yes you will drop that grub screw and lose it, and no you don’t have a spare in your screws box…because who does………

The shifter shows that sometimes simpler is better. And yea….only UDH frames

Ad about 25-35% on top of that to allow for for local gauging.

Im sorry Diesel, yes they make good stuff, but what sram calls ‘being able to shift under load’ in everything before this - is just not haha. Unless you dont get it on current gen GX AXS? I regularly get reprimanded by riding buddies for how I just smash through the gears from a standstill. I guess “bad habits” I picked up from Shimano haha. But this GX sounds like a dog chewing ice when you just smash through the gears without thought or a care for it. Like multishift, it is still something i miss when i use this bike…but my hate for the tv remote shifter is well documented. And i know you can program it to ‘multishift’ - its still not the same. ill gladly swop this AXS for some new amish XT greasy bits, ive even almost listed it on here for a swop, but my mild OCD would not allow a mixed groupo on there. And then theres the matter of sram’s absolutely pointless 29mm dub bb which would mean ill need another new wheelsmfg one there too👀 So im ‘stuck’ for now.

If you are going to call them out…at least do it properly🤣 @Jewbacca @DieselnDust

There’s no beading around the bush even if you valve a little deeper in search of core answers. In a pinch a cheap solution works like a bomb and will seal the deal for most. But often costs will mushroom out of control and leave your wallet as flat as an Ardent Race at the 2022 epic.

Yea, all these pressures can be deflating.

Yes but will i bike tire last 60000km?😅 Edit: lets compare fruits from the same species: Bicycle tyres are expensive.

You wont die if it fails on the back. Patch it or use a tube with sealant, put it on the back. Even if you get 5 proper rides out of it… you can just as easily slash any sidewall at speed and have an instantaneous deflation. Hell, these fast kids roll rear tyres off rims in fast in corners at the enduros and nobody dies or even falls off for that matter. its not on a bike that will be doing 60kph down a tar road. another question…what casing is it? If its exo+ and up…even better. Its not a snakeskin xc tyre.

In think all the 11s stuff was pretty good. still totally worth it for a cost conscious build.

Sorry, didnt follow the thread. But yes, this kind of convinced me too. And here I am wishing my axs gets smashed in a crash so i can revert back to ‘Amish’ derailleurs. I cant be bothered with having to charge my bicycle to use it, and I really don't like the tv remote shifter. I miss the tactility of the mechanicals for sure.

Id only ever think of doing this on a steel bike if i wanted to Mcgyver it. The material properties means it is just a bit less temperamental than alloys and ‘plastics’. But I suspect you’ll get a lot of replies telling you are mad for even considering this😅 Id also consider making a very small pilot hole first and then to ream it by hand or similar to the required size….slowly. That way you’ll take a lot of the heat out of the picture.

Hey i owned a decent and relatively modern 26” trail bike quite recently. Tyres and parts are an issue if you dont have a warehouse full of spares lying around like you do haha

Front ? What thread? Looks like dhr? id plug, patch do everything possible BUT then use it on the rear. If it fails catastrophically id rather have it on the back wheel.

Hi id remove all the 26” variants from your list as a start. Also the Axis.Also anything V-brake. It’s 2023. titan’s are known for their good value so there are options. Out of all those and in that budget..the titan rogue SE in the link you provided seems like a nice deal for that budget…i mean its 29”, relatively modern looking and wide range 1x8 (12/46) which is a bonus. 26” id avoid purely because you’ll be limited by the availability of decent tyres and parts. 650b is going down the same path too unfortunately. The bike industry are kicking them to the curb in favour of 29”. Assuming you’ll use the bike for mixed riding on trails, roads and the odd cycle tour and what not…id highly recommend a 29” bike. edit: also, for your height, nothing bigger than a medium. @Titan Racing Bikes, do your thing?😅

👀

Just a heads-up, you’ll probably need a goatlink on a 11speed xt rear mech to get it to work just OK on a 11-51T. They only really work well up to 46T in my experience. It will do a 51…but it wont be perfect…and i still think those 11speed rear mechs were some of the best made. have a stock long cage one on another bike paired with a 11-46T.