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PYGA1

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Neither of my Pyga's (first OneTwenty Order and supplied to customer, First Pyga Stage Ordered) were cheap when I bought/build them, compared to similar builds at the time, and the stage actually have had some changes to it making it more expensive now, with some more changes on the cards.

 

Would I change my mind knowing now if I was to redo this, not in a million years. Nearly bought one of the 110 frames last week, finances just decided against it.

 

G

We're you going to buy one of the last new 110 frames or 2nd hand?

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I assume they do their own distribution locally, so I would argue they are overpriced compared to every other imported bike where the frame is also manufactured in Taiwan, and sold to the local agent/distributor.

The "because it's a boutique brand" argument is also BS, as generally they are considered to be of better value everywhere else in the world.

 

So whether they are overpriced due to being inherently uncompetitive or having very healthy margins, you can do better buying elsewhere.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

I'm very much familiar with the intricacies of carbon fibre manufacturing and the economies of scale.

Like I said, elsewhere in world many of the smaller brands offer better value for money than the big brands like spez, trek etc.

 

I'm hesitant to reference their local competitor for speaking under correction, but Momsen bikes have always offered better value than Pyga and we can assume their sales volumes should be similar.

 

Also, it's not only their carbon frames that are expensive as the alloy frames were just as, and more expensive than other brands.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

1. I am not a PYGA fanboy, even though it is starting to look like it :P

2. Larger volumes on full bikes also means the OEM parts come in a bulk discount factor that a "Boutique" brand can not match

3. Not so sure Momsen can be called a boutique brand. They have such a wide range of bikes from low end to high end, and must certainly sell huge volumes vs PYGA.

4. Personally ..... I will rather ride/buy a lesser spec'ed PYGA before a ride/buy a high end Momsen ... except for their STR frames ... now those I would happily swing a leg over :)

5. You want a fair brand competitor to Momsen then look to Silverback.

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I'm on R110k

 

Thats for Pyga Stage, M8000 groupset, Stages PM, Pyga Carbon rims, Chris King Hubs, Thomson cockpit, Rockshock SID fork

 

G

 

A S-works Camber is R130 000. How much is a tricked out Stage?

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As a Pyga fan I tend to agree, their framesets are pricey. Starts competing with some very established brands, and is also the main reason I built something different this time round. They are still lovely bikes though.

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My OneTen is an awesome bike, it was made more possible to build due to pricing I got for a medium frame at the time at Valencia, which was about R4k less than any other shop I contacted.

 

It rides amazingly, handles like a dream and makes one feel as if you can ride over everything, an amazingly stable bike for many applications. I wanted to build a 650 OneTwenty recently, but the pricing shocked me. Just a frame alone costs more than what the average used Pyga sells for. Due to budget I tricked out a Cannondale Habit for way less than what my budget for the OneTwenty would have been.

 

I am still a massive Pyga fan, however do not see myself being able to afford the Hyrax when it eventually comes to market. Not if you also throw the prices of the YT range into the mix.

 

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Seems like the thing to do is wait for second hand Pyga deals. There are some crackers.

 

There are some crazy deals on OneTen's at the moment. A year ago those same bikes would have sold in a couple of days at R10k more. Prior to October 2017 I had never seen a sub-R30k OneTen, the average price was closer to R38k.

 

The replacement value on the parts & frame on my OneTen is R69k; looking at some of the bikes advertised on the Hub I can am just stumped.

 

After speaking to a number of the dealers, new builds are basically R16.5k (frame direct from Pyga) and another R35k for the rest of the build, that will put you in at R51.5k.

 

 

Edited by Traveler
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  • 1 month later...

Anyone using Eagle 12speed Drivetrain on a Stage frame with the +5.

 

i'm having issues setting up my drivetrain, the chain is a bit noisy in the highest gears, there is some interference with the theeth of the next cog, if i backpedal it gets caught and jumps.

 

i found the info below on the woolftooth website

 

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/boost-chainline-and-chainrings

 

" If you are running 12 speed, the clearances are so small between chain and cassette that you MUST run a boost spaced chainring with a boost spaced bike.  If you don't, the chain will "tick" on the next bigger cog when in the smallest 2-3 cogs on the cassette."

 

Does this mean it would be better to run a boost ring upfront, and put the effective chainline at 47mm (52 less the 5mm offset) this would still be 2mm less than a standard boost setup chanline.

 

The effective chailine is currently at 44mm (49mm less the 5)

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

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Russel in Alberton is def running Eagle with his stage Max.

 

It's actually their standard build now if you look on their web site.

 

G

 

 

Anyone using Eagle 12speed Drivetrain on a Stage frame with the +5.

 

i'm having issues setting up my drivetrain, the chain is a bit noisy in the highest gears, there is some interference with the theeth of the next cog, if i backpedal it gets caught and jumps.

 

i found the info below on the woolftooth website

 

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/boost-chainline-and-chainrings

 

" If you are running 12 speed, the clearances are so small between chain and cassette that you MUST run a boost spaced chainring with a boost spaced bike.  If you don't, the chain will "tick" on the next bigger cog when in the smallest 2-3 cogs on the cassette."

 

Does this mean it would be better to run a boost ring upfront, and put the effective chainline at 47mm (52 less the 5mm offset) this would still be 2mm less than a standard boost setup chanline.

 

The effective chailine is currently at 44mm (49mm less the 5)

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

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