Post your Pyga

[Pipsqueak]

Feb 14.

 

I have to say, that's the most way off review I've ever read. For a bike that wins Enduro events and with such a downhill orientated heritage its one of the finest decenders in its class. And yet he says the geometry isn't suited for downhill "bombing".

 

Chainstay height is the same as the bronson, so how can this geometry be "old school". I think this guy is a plonker, particularly when you read WMB's glowing review of the 650/120.

Edited March 14, 2014 by Pipsqueak

[Skott5]

 

WMB's glowing review of the 650/120.

 

There is a pretty sweet 650/120 for sale in the classifieds right now.

Tempting, but I cant afford a bike AND a divorce lawyer at the moment. If I bring that home I'll need the latter

[flyluis]

So I let my wife take my Pyga 120/650B for a ride the other day..... :(

 

She won't give it back....

 

What now?

Edited March 14, 2014 by flyluis

[awesme]

There is a bike in the classified... she can't argue with you.

 

G

[Pipsqueak]

You should never marry a woman with the same frame size.

[awesme]

even more important, make sure you're woman never reads comments here...

 

G

[LukePurdon]

Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it, will chat to the guys and Velolife and see what they suggest re tyres(might not be able to change as I have paid and they where on special) but thanks anyway, sorry for the overreaction Nico, I was obviously in a sensitive mood yesterday????

 

Another things: I am going cycling in Botswana and have been advised to take the oldest set of tyres I have as they will be thrown away afterwards due to the millions of thorns in the thuli block area, I don't have any old tubeless 29er tyres lying around, would anybody know how I could get hold of some for cheap or if I can buy new ones for cheap?

 

Also any tips and tricks for making the tyres as tough as possible?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it, will chat to the guys and Velolife and see what they suggest re tyres(might not be able to change as I have paid and they where on special) but thanks anyway, sorry for the overreaction Nico, I was obviously in a sensitive mood yesterday

 

Another things: I am going cycling in Botswana and have been advised to take the oldest set of tyres I have as they will be thrown away afterwards due to the millions of thorns in the thuli block area, I don't have any old tubeless 29er tyres lying around, would anybody know how I could get hold of some for cheap or if I can buy new ones for cheap?

 

Also any tips and tricks for making the tyres as tough as possible?

 

Easy. Don't take old tires!!! They're not only weaker, but you'll have less grip!

 

Basically go for their Protection / UST equivalent versions, and don't worry about the weight factor.

 

Snakeskin / UST / Protection / whatever. Just get something with strong sidewalls. And take tubes, even if you're running tubeless. Sometimes you may have a torn sidewall, which you can only fix by having a tube on hand (sealant won't fix)

 

also have some heavier guage rubber that you can sew into the sidewall if it's a big gash. Take needle and thread (strong thread) - if the gash is big enough you sew it closed, put the piece of rubber on the inside of the tyre as a patch and reinflate with sealant. It WILL work.

 

So - list.

 

Needle and thread (must be a strong needle, but not too thick, and strong thread)

Spare tubes (for when the sewing and patches just won't cut it, do all of them)

old rubber (cut up an old tube, for example)

Contact adhesive / glue (for the patches on a larger scale)

Stans

NEW TIRES!!!

[Hairy]

Easy. Don't take old tires!!! They're not only weaker, but you'll have less grip!

 

Basically go for their Protection / UST equivalent versions, and don't worry about the weight factor.

 

Snakeskin / UST / Protection / whatever. Just get something with strong sidewalls. And take tubes, even if you're running tubeless. Sometimes you may have a torn sidewall, which you can only fix by having a tube on hand (sealant won't fix)

 

also have some heavier guage rubber that you can sew into the sidewall if it's a big gash. Take needle and thread (strong thread) - if the gash is big enough you sew it closed, put the piece of rubber on the inside of the tyre as a patch and reinflate with sealant. It WILL work.

 

So - list.

 

Needle and thread (must be a strong needle, but not too thick, and strong thread)

Spare tubes (for when the sewing and patches just won't cut it, do all of them)

old rubber (cut up an old tube, for example)

Contact adhesive / glue (for the patches on a larger scale)

Stans

NEW TIRES!!!

That thread being referred to ..... tooth floss works very well and tent repair thread also does the trick

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

That thread being referred to ..... tooth floss works very well and tent repair thread also does the trick

 

Indeed... Just threading the needle that tests your patience!!!

[Hairy]

Indeed... Just threading the needle that tests your patience!!!

only if your eyesight is bad and you have the shakes ..... :D

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

only if your eyesight is bad and you have the shakes ..... :D

 

Dude. If you're riding in Lesotho, you're only a valley away from a herd of angry goats. At all times... Shakes are mandatory!

[LukePurdon]

Easy. Don't take old tires!!! They're not only weaker, but you'll have less grip!

 

Basically go for their Protection / UST equivalent versions, and don't worry about the weight factor.

 

Snakeskin / UST / Protection / whatever. Just get something with strong sidewalls. And take tubes, even if you're running tubeless. Sometimes you may have a torn sidewall, which you can only fix by having a tube on hand (sealant won't fix)

 

also have some heavier guage rubber that you can sew into the sidewall if it's a big gash. Take needle and thread (strong thread) - if the gash is big enough you sew it closed, put the piece of rubber on the inside of the tyre as a patch and reinflate with sealant. It WILL work.

 

So - list.

 

Needle and thread (must be a strong needle, but not too thick, and strong thread)

Spare tubes (for when the sewing and patches just won't cut it, do all of them)

old rubber (cut up an old tube, for example)

Contact adhesive / glue (for the patches on a larger scale)

Stans

NEW TIRES!!!

 

Thats great, thanks for the advice

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

 

Thats great, thanks for the advice

 

Pleasure mate...

[Ryanpmb]

Ordered my new Pyga oneten29 last week, recieving it hopefully next week, it's being built in somerset west by Velolife, it's my first proper mountain bike, being very spoilt for an early birthday present from my dad. Absolutely caught the mountain biking bug in the new year after riding at home in natal and now at varsity in Stellenbosch. Pictures to come next week.

 

Specs:(any comments or suggestions would be appreciated)

Wheels: DTSwiss 29’ 485D with SLX Hubs

 

Tyres: Continental Race King 29X2.2 Fold-up

 

Crank: Shimano Deore Triple

 

Brake lever and calliper set: Non-series Brake Set

 

Shifters: SLX Shifters 3 X10SOD

 

Derailleurs: Front SLX Derailleur and Rear SLX Derailleur

 

Cassette: Shimano Deore 11-36T 10SPD

 

Seatpost:BGM Race-pro 400X27.2mm

 

Handlebar: Scor MKII 720mm Flat bar

 

Stem: Syntace stem 110mm, 100mm R210.54

 

Saddle: Speed Defies Gravity

 

Rockshox recon front fork 120mm travel

 

The stem IS going to be too long. Get it built with a demo stem and try different lengths. You'll come down to somewhere between 50-80mm.

 

You'll need LOTS of shims to make a 27.2mm post work...

 

It will be fairly heavy with this spec. But the spec is upgradable and therefore the bike can only get lighter. Funny thing with the PYGA frames is you don't really notice their weight when riding.

Edited March 15, 2014 by Ryanpmb

[awesme]

Nice build, nice Vid:

 

 

G