kosmonooit Posted May 27, 2013 Share There was rip of a great DVD with Fabien Barel that showed some great cornering techniques. Found it! http://youtu.be/gF5K9V2w6W8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCA12 Posted May 27, 2013 Share Make sure the pressure supports your weight (as others have said). I've had the unfortunate incident of forgetting to pump my tires up properly. I watched my front tire roll off the rim. Was not fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DR ◣◢ Posted May 27, 2013 Share I absolutely hate Rocket Rons. I have a theory (only a theory) that tyres with "rows of knobblies" like the Rocket Ron (and a lot of Schwalbe tyres have) are not good. Well they're good but they tend to be quite loose - they tend to move sideways in corners. If you're a balls out rally style rider these tyres are good for you. Like so? http://interbike.mtbr.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/schwalbe_hans_dampf_tread.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clyde79 Posted May 27, 2013 Share I absolutely hate Rocket Rons. I have a theory (only a theory) that tyres with "rows of knobblies" like the Rocket Ron (and a lot of Schwalbe tyres have) are not good. Well they're good but they tend to be quite loose - they tend to move sideways in corners. If you're a balls out rally style rider these tyres are good for you. I prefer tyres with "arrows of knobblies" like the Ritchey Shield, Conti Raceking, Maxxis Ikon (although these are a combo of line and arrow). I find they're more predictable and when the tyres starts to slide you have been warned! Thanks. I hasn't sure if your "cough rocket rons cough" was meaning they were crap or not. I think I prefer tyres not to move at all in the corners as I tend to correct as soon as there is some movement. I reckon I'm going to try reduce the pressure in my Crossmarks and be more aggressive in the corners. If I am still struggling to find grip I'll try some different tyres. Thanks everyone for some good tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted May 27, 2013 Share Like so? http://interbike.mtbr.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/schwalbe_hans_dampf_tread.jpg Yup. Im prefer arrows like such: My theory is that "rows of knobblies" allow the tyres ti slip sideway with only the faces of the knobblies to resist. A lot more "faces" to restrict sidways movements on "arrowed" tyres. Like I said - my theory only - have at it if you will :-)http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/bikes-and-gear/components/tyres/mountain/1247501509352-14azebf0gozig-399-75.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted May 27, 2013 Share Thanks. I hasn't sure if your "cough rocket rons cough" was meaning they were crap or not. I think I prefer tyres not to move at all in the corners as I tend to correct as soon as there is some movement. I reckon I'm going to try reduce the pressure in my Crossmarks and be more aggressive in the corners. If I am still struggling to find grip I'll try some different tyres. Thanks everyone for some good tips. I'm a big crossmark fan - it's the go to tyre for people who are enterring the mtb market and want a good do it all tyre. I found softer IS better with the Corssmarks - until they start growling or are at risk of burping. I've run mine as low as 1.6bar (I'm an 80kg rider). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DR ◣◢ Posted May 27, 2013 Share Yup. Im prefer arrows like such: My theory is that "rows of knobblies" allow the tyres ti slip sideway with only the faces of the knobblies to resist. A lot more "faces" to restrict sidways movements on "arrowed" tyres. Like I said - my theory only - have at it if you will :-)http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/bikes-and-gear/components/tyres/mountain/1247501509352-14azebf0gozig-399-75.jpg Makes good sense. Basically the different grip characteristics between a directional and non-directional tread pattern. Also makes a moer of a difference in climbing and braking performance. I don't agree with 50% of the tyre manufacturers directional arrows as it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Li Mu Bai Posted May 27, 2013 Share Get Mastering Mountain Biking Skills, by Brian Lopez. Great resource for all things MTB. RockCoach 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted May 27, 2013 Share Makes good sense. Basically the different grip characteristics between a directional and non-directional tread pattern. Also makes a moer of a difference in climbing and braking performance. I don't agree with 50% of the tyre manufacturers directional arrows as it is Agreed! But then I'm mostly a XCM and XCO rider so all I want is low rolling resistance - I'm happy to get all sketchy like in the corners! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arendoog Posted May 27, 2013 Share A crossmark in front is an accident waiting to happen .On loose sand and mud there is no grip unless the pressure is realy low .On my 3 different bikes i have had nobbly nick ,racing ralph, maxxis crossmark and continental protection mountain king in front .The best grip is the continental mountain king for south african conditions .Works on all terrain and you can run them with low pressures .I have had front tyre washout with crossmark but with none of the others Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJR Posted May 27, 2013 Share I like a tyre with a rounded profile, in as large a volume (at the right pressure) as will fit and give enough clearance for a bit of mud. I also believe in going gnarly with widely spaced big knobs if you want to have grip in the corners. If you want good low rolling resistance, you cannot have super grip. These are the two extreme ends of the spectrum that I ride. Kenda Excavators in the wet, mud, all mountain. Scwalbe Racing Ralphs for long open dry dirt roads and stage racing. Both have their place, but the gnarlies will outcorner the smoothies every time (in the dirt). Maxxis, I find your theory on the arrow patterns interesting and will pay a bit more attention to that possibility in future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niterider Posted May 27, 2013 Share Get Mastering Mountain Biking Skills, by Brian Lopez. Great resource for all things MTB. Lopez, that great Mexican 4-crosser' DR ◣◢ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowbee Posted May 27, 2013 Share Magic thread guys !! A question or 3, if you are riding tight single track, twisty and turny, with umm loads of trees around, how can you keep the weight on the bike if you do not have to much space to lean ? At sani some of those turns were really tight and it felt like one could go a bit faster if you knew how (or because the bloke in front of me was going the klappers and he never seemed to pedal !!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJR Posted May 28, 2013 Share Magic thread guys !! A question or 3, if you are riding tight single track, twisty and turny, with umm loads of trees around, how can you keep the weight on the bike if you do not have to much space to lean ? At sani some of those turns were really tight and it felt like one could go a bit faster if you knew how (or because the bloke in front of me was going the klappers and he never seemed to pedal !!) Much of the flatter single track at Sani could be ridden almost like a pump track. If you pumped every bump, you could fly a lot of it without ever having to put much pedalling in. As to tight tree lined corners, you (as mentioned above) have to lean the bike over but keep your body more upright, above the wheels. That way your shoulder can miss that tree that's a little too close to the inside edge of the trail. Picking your line correctly also helps. Find the most bermed part of the turn, mostly the outside edge, and rail that. Don't assume that the 1000s of peeps that have gone before you, picked the best line. RockCoach 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePubSA Posted May 28, 2013 Share Makes good sense. Basically the different grip characteristics between a directional and non-directional tread pattern. Also makes a moer of a difference in climbing and braking performance. I don't agree with 50% of the tyre manufacturers directional arrows as it is LOl have always done this,never bring it up as its against the rules.... ,MK2 front i run backwards 10x more grip,same with nevegal..Just to worsen it i run my rotors opposite sometimes too,has stopped a turkey squeal more them once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowbee Posted May 28, 2013 Share Much of the flatter single track at Sani could be ridden almost like a pump track. If you pumped every bump, you could fly a lot of it without ever having to put much pedalling in. As to tight tree lined corners, you (as mentioned above) have to lean the bike over but keep your body more upright, above the wheels. That way your shoulder can miss that tree that's a little too close to the inside edge of the trail. Picking your line correctly also helps. Find the most bermed part of the turn, mostly the outside edge, and rail that. Don't assume that the 1000s of peeps that have gone before you, picked the best line. , umm pump track ?(reached my number of like quotes for the day) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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