Is motorcycling allowed?

[Andymann]

I know what cover you are talking about. that is also oozing oil on warm days. it is on the gear shifters side.

 

The monza does not have a kick starter for some reason...... 

Its the cover on the RHS of the bike - same side as the brake.  And it is relatively easy, if you have the correct screwdriver to get the screws off - otherwise all that will happen is the crossheads will strip and you will be left with a cover which will need to have the screws drilled out.  See my comment above about Chinese bolts and screws made out of cheese.....

 

If you are lucky that cover might have 8mm bolts, or even 6mm Caps, but even then, for anyone who has ever assembled an office chair from Macro, you will know how easily those bolt heads get rounded.

 

You'll also need a new clutch cover gasket.

[Allrounder]

hehe I was just thinking about what you said while you where posting. 

 

I have some experience with macro and game furniture. Scary stuff. I think I will just change the oil and filter first. 

 

other jobs will go to the shop. 

[i24]

Just remember you need to use a Motorcycle specific oil in the engine - a lot of Multigrades which are designed for cars also have an additive added which is not compatible with a wet clutch (apart from some race bikes and some Ducatis, all motorcycles have clutches which run in the engine oil), so when you put in a car oil it starts messing with the clutch plates and causes the clutch to slip.

 

My son's BigBoy's clutch slip got worse after he topped up with some semi-synthetic oil that he "borrowed" from my garage . Then he drained the oil and replaced it with Castrol GTX (non synthetic) multigrade which improved again. But it still slips and it is getting worse.

[Skylark]

Just remember you need to use a Motorcycle specific oil in the engine - a lot of Multigrades which are designed for cars also have an additive added which is not compatible with a wet clutch (apart from some race bikes and some Ducatis, all motorcycles have clutches which run in the engine oil), so when you put in a car oil it starts messing with the clutch plates and causes the clutch to slip.

Perhaps also try a slightly thicker oil.

 

Best thing to open those engine side cover screws is a cordless impact driver or 2hnd best a cordless drill, either allows alot of down pressure to be applied keeping the driver bit engaged in the screw head whilst the tool does the loosening.

 

Also there's that trick if the engine has an aluminium casing, which most do, hit the screw heads with a screwdriver and big hammer which somehow breaks the lock, very easy to loosen them after that.

 

I remember my Xt200 side cover screws getting insanely tight despite only torquing them to spec, then an old bike master dude shows me the hammer blow technique, thought it must be bs when I initially heard about it but it works like magic in most instances.

[i24]

Best thing to open those engine side cover screws is a cordless impact driver or 2hnd best a cordless drill, either allows alot of down pressure to be applied keeping the driver bit engaged in the screw head whilst the tool does the loosening.

 

The word "impact driver" has come to refer to different tools. I have a hand tool "impact driver" like this one:

 

https://www.wantitall.co.za/tools/klein-tools-70220-reversible-impact-driver-set__b000936r6e

 

(I can't speak for that website, I just found a picture of the tool on their site with Google).

 

You apply it to a stubborn screw, apply as much torque as you can with one hand, then hit it on the back with a hammer. It hammers the screw, applies a rotational torque and puts a lot of pressure on the screw head all at the same time. It is a very effective tool for stripping motor bike crank cases.

 

The China bike engine seems to use hex nuts on a the crank case side covers, so you can get quite a lot off without fighting with screws.

Edited October 10, 2017 by i24

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

Perhaps also try a slightly thicker oil.

 

Best thing to open those engine side cover screws is a cordless impact driver or 2hnd best a cordless drill, either allows alot of down pressure to be applied keeping the driver bit engaged in the screw head whilst the tool does the loosening.

 

Also there's that trick if the engine has an aluminium casing, which most do, hit the screw heads with a screwdriver and big hammer which somehow breaks the lock, very easy to loosen them after that.

 

I remember my Xt200 side cover screws getting insanely tight despite only torquing them to spec, then an old bike master dude shows me the hammer blow technique, thought it must be bs when I initially heard about it but it works like magic in most instances.

 

I would not use any electrical drill/impact driver on those cover bolts. Sorry just my opinion.

Unless you know how to use them correctly you will strip the bolts threads. I have had to pay a lot of money to buy donor casings for my RD350 as EVERY SINGLE BOLT THREAD is stripped. The gorilla who worked on it previously obviously did not know what he was doing. They also stripped EVERY SINGLE THREAD on the bowls of the carbs. Needless to say I have plenty work ahead of me. Oh they stripped the exhaust stud threads too, sounds hard to believe I know............

Loosening with the drill, no problem but invest in a proper torque wrench when putting them back. Remember, you can't take back that last quarter turn AFTER the thread has stripped.

 

The hammer shock technique works yes, BTW

Edited October 10, 2017 by Steven Knoetze (sk27)

[GTRacing]

Braaaaap

 

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[GrumpyOldGuy]

I would not use any electrical drill/impact driver on those cover bolts. Sorry just my opinion.

Unless you know how to use them correctly you will strip the bolts threads. I have had to pay a lot of money to buy donor casings for my RD350 as EVERY SINGLE BOLT THREAD is stripped. The gorilla who worked on it previously obviously did not know what he was doing. They also stripped EVERY SINGLE THREAD on the bowls of the carbs. Needless to say I have plenty work ahead of me. Oh they stripped the exhaust stud threads too, sounds hard to believe I know............

Loosening with the drill, no problem but invest in a proper torque wrench when putting them back. Remember, you can't take back that last quarter turn AFTER the thread has stripped.

 

The hammer shock technique works yes, BTW

On older bikes it was commonly accepted that the first thing you did was remove all the cover screws and replace with Allen cap screws. We did that with all the older models, saved hours of headaches later.

 

Modern bikes have a better quality of screw or bolt head, but an impact driver is often the only way to break the lock on a thread, if the screw has never been removed before it can freeze in place and when the screw head is recessed and perhaps a thread locking compound is applied as well, getting sufficient force applied to the screwdriver to break the lock without damaging the head can be tricky and the head can often be destroyed before it breaks free.

 

An impact driver is a life saver in these cases, then as I said replace with an Allen cap screw and a dab of copper compound.   

[GrumpyOldGuy]

Perhaps also try a slightly thicker oil.

 

Best thing to open those engine side cover screws is a cordless impact driver or 2hnd best a cordless drill, either allows alot of down pressure to be applied keeping the driver bit engaged in the screw head whilst the tool does the loosening.

 

Also there's that trick if the engine has an aluminium casing, which most do, hit the screw heads with a screwdriver and big hammer which somehow breaks the lock, very easy to loosen them after that.

 

I remember my Xt200 side cover screws getting insanely tight despite only torquing them to spec, then an old bike master dude shows me the hammer blow technique, thought it must be bs when I initially heard about it but it works like magic in most instances.

Yah, its an old trick, its basically the same principle as an Impact driver, but we never reassembled much without using copper compound on all the threads, just makes life so much easier down the road.  

[Skylark]

I would not use any electrical drill/impact driver on those cover bolts. Sorry just my opinion.

Unless you know how to use them correctly you will strip the bolts threads. I have had to pay a lot of money to buy donor casings for my RD350 as EVERY SINGLE BOLT THREAD is stripped. The gorilla who worked on it previously obviously did not know what he was doing. They also stripped EVERY SINGLE THREAD on the bowls of the carbs. Needless to say I have plenty work ahead of me. Oh they stripped the exhaust stud threads too, sounds hard to believe I know............

Loosening with the drill, no problem but invest in a proper torque wrench when putting them back. Remember, you can't take back that last quarter turn AFTER the thread has stripped.

 

The hammer shock technique works yes, BTW

I can imagine your tears of frustration with your own wreck but I said use an impact drivers/drill to loosen not tighten, they are perfectly safe if not the preferable tool in that instance. I have yet to strip threads loosening a bolt/nut with an impact driver/drill but I have rounded many a nut/bolt/screw head of impossibly tight fasteners before the advent of cordless impact drivers/drills and significantly less since.

 

In any case in the right hands cordless impact drivers/drills are also fine for tightening as long as you do the final tighten by hand/torque wrench, if you are paranoid and feel that you can't rely on your hands just set the clutch to a torque well below the desired final torque, use 2N.m for instance.

 

Any tool can destroy in the wrong hands, common sense - use it!!

Edited October 11, 2017 by Skylark

[Fire Engine]

Some inspiration for Fire Engine, beautifully built R100 Beemer

Thanks that is really cool ,I like it a lot.

[mazambaan]

What is that GTRacing; a 500?

[GTRacing]

What is that GTRacing; a 500?

Yes, 2012 KTM500EXC. 19L long range tank and your ready.

 

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[mazambaan]

Very nice bike; what soft luggages and happy?

[Allrounder]

the worst thing happened today. Went to the shop with the moto mia. When I got home I heard something dripping.... Petrol dripping from the tank. It somehow cracked /rusted/ or rubbed through. I am so angry at this stage. 

 

What are your takes on the BMW f650gs?

[Spokey]

Braaaaap

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This is very very lekka, throw on some Giant Loop soft bags (small day ones for the punture repair and tools) let the fun begin. I love my KLR 650 but would welcome the power of this Katoom!