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Posted

Fuel starvation or heat related?

Just a shot....

Have you had it looked at?

 

Edit:

Great photos and good time with the young fella.

Could be something as simple as an air filter, fuelling as mentioned or motor tightening up through valve clearance issues.

When last did it get a proper service, new oil, plug and filters?

Then look at history for valve clearances. Hot starting issues could be a tight inlet valve......

Half the fun of bikes is working on them btw

I also thought it to be feul starvation or an firing issue, maybe a clogged filter or a faulty spark plug

 

When I stopped somewhere for coffee and waited for half an hour the bike would start up perfectly when cooled down and idle smoothly, but as soon as things warmed up the trouble would start.

Because of this I dismissed a dirty feul filter or carb issue as that would cause issues whether the bike was hot or cold.

Thought it might be spark plugs and checked on Google for the nearest Midas or AutoZone from the city centre, was even contemplating stoping at Woodstock Moto Co , but first phoned a friend who owns a bike shop in Worcester for advise.

 

He dismissed the spark plugs saying a faulty plug would give trouble regardless of the tempretare.

His analysis based on my symptoms given over the phone was that the Coil was most likely the culprit. According to him the coils on the DR600 tends to get buggered as they get older and the effect you get is similar to a twin misfiring and loosing power on one cylinder. This was exactly what I was experiencing and because the DR600 has a twin spark coil you will experience los of power if one plug stops firing.

 

So will be looking around for a replacement unit, according to him he has fitted a coil from a Chinese twin cylinder motorbike to a DR600 before, might just go that way if I can't find original or if original costs as much as the bike......

 

Will report back when I manage to get it sorted.

Posted

Thanks Hairy, I'm not always a model parent, but I try my best for this little guy.[emoji106]

flipping awesome and creating a bond and memories with your son that will have a huge impact on his life.

 

you sir are doing it right!

Posted

You can't go wrong with a DR, I would however advise against the 600 as it is an old model and only has kickstart....[emoji123]

 

Rather go for the newer 400 or 650, they are bombproof donkeys. They are not fast, but they are reliable and cheap and cheap to maintain. And because they are cheap they have a "good" resale value, as in you get back what you paid for after a couple of years.

 

Also in this class a Kawasaki KLR is a good option to start out on. You can buy either the older KLR 650 or DR 650 for R20k-R25k and mess around with it, do some gravel, do some tar cruising and decide what riding you really want to do. After a year you can sell the bike for what you paid for it and move on to what you really want.

 

But for now go kick some more tyres......[emoji6]

Ben ... you make me think a good old DR may also be the way to go for a first bike in 20 years!

DR400z

 

Bombproof, light on juice and can go anywhere. Prob also has more power than the Sportster. LOL.

Posted

I also thought it to be feul starvation or an firing issue, maybe a clogged filter or a faulty spark plug

 

When I stopped somewhere for coffee and waited for half an hour the bike would start up perfectly when cooled down and idle smoothly, but as soon as things warmed up the trouble would start.

Because of this I dismissed a dirty feul filter or carb issue as that would cause issues whether the bike was hot or cold.

Thought it might be spark plugs and checked on Google for the nearest Midas or AutoZone from the city centre, was even contemplating stoping at Woodstock Moto Co , but first phoned a friend who owns a bike shop in Worcester for advise.

 

He dismissed the spark plugs saying a faulty plug would give trouble regardless of the tempretare.

His analysis based on my symptoms given over the phone was that the Coil was most likely the culprit. According to him the coils on the DR600 tends to get buggered as they get older and the effect you get is similar to a twin misfiring and loosing power on one cylinder. This was exactly what I was experiencing and because the DR600 has a twin spark coil you will experience los of power if one plug stops firing.

 

So will be looking around for a replacement unit, according to him he has fitted a coil from a Chinese twin cylinder motorbike to a DR600 before, might just go that way if I can't find original or if original costs as much as the bike......

 

Will report back when I manage to get it sorted.

My dakkie also gave me trouble after riding about 5 km. Also loss of power and cutting out as soon as you pull the clutch. 

 

In the end it was the coils, and coil wiring and isolation.

 

dont know if you have a throttle body, (new word that i learned) but mine was also very dirty, and apparently that also creates the same symptoms. 

Posted

Play stupid games, win stupid prizes  ^_^

 

As I get older (and possibly wiser) I have realized that losing control on a bike (or anything really even ones temper) happens so damn quickly and nigh on impossible to get  back (unless one has number 93) .

 

But I ride like an old granny these days....

Posted

Pretty much something like that.

When a piston seizes the piston and rings get so hot, usually from lack of lubrication, that the metal often fuses together like this, often referred to as a heat seize.

How exactly does this happen to a piston?

Rings re melted into it or something

Posted

That explains there being being lots of dents in cyclinder header aswell then.assuming fragments damaged it?

Pretty much something like that.

When a piston seizes the piston and rings get so hot, usually from lack of lubrication, that the metal often fuses together like this, often referred to as a heat seize.

Posted

How exactly does this happen to a piston?

Rings re melted into it or something

Got too much heat there. Causes can be many. Too lean mixture or an air leak if mixture etc has not changed lately. Exhaust port or inlet side can help diagnose. The vertical scores on a newish piston normally point to to tight a bore/piston combo but in this case the extra heat probably caused the tightness with expansion.

Posted

You can't go wrong with a DR, I would however advise against the 600 as it is an old model and only has kickstart....[emoji123]

Rather go for the newer 400 or 650, they are bombproof donkeys. They are not fast, but they are reliable and cheap and cheap to maintain. And because they are cheap they have a "good" resale value, as in you get back what you paid for after a couple of years.

Also in this class a Kawasaki KLR is a good option to start out on. You can buy either the older KLR 650 or DR 650 for R20k-R25k and mess around with it, do some gravel, do some tar cruising and decide what riding you really want to do. After a year you can sell the bike for what you paid for it and move on to what you really want.

But for now go kick some more tyres......[emoji6]

post-52292-0-46465800-1540748027_thumb.jpeg
Posted (edited)

Sorry, finger trouble, too much wine in the hotel lounge. But I love my KLR, huge value for money.This I recommend whole heartedly. Pic is in Die Hell, this thing does it for me, I like valule for my Randellas. If I need to go fast I ride my road bikes.

 

As previously posted, my KLR runs upgraded suspension, Leo Vinci Pipe and DNA filters (lots of) amongst other mods. If I drop it, so what, cheap.......love it!

Edited by Spokey

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