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Posted

As a substitute for the Q20 / WD40, you can also try Corrosion X. That stuff is incredible for loosening tight corroded parts. Pricey, but far superior to the others.

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Posted

Hi Hubbers

 

 

Due to neglect on my behalf I am in the position where I have a seat post jammed in my steel Niner MCR (Reynolds 852 tubing)

 

 

The LBS had a go at moving it and gave up. (Not sure how hard they tried) They suggested I lubricate the top of post and ride with the seat clamp loose hoping that my weight eventually dislodges it. While I am not thrilled at the safety aspects of this approach I have tried it on a few district road training rides with no luck. (Do I need to eat more pies?)

 

 

Aside from clamping the post in a vice and wrestling the frame does anyone have any other options I can try?

 

I am looking to replace the post with one with zero lay back so not a major issue if it gets damaged. The frame of course is my bigger concern.

 

 

And yes the lesson on lubricating the post has now been learnt!

 

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

 

Your LBS are a bunch of sadists...

 

Heating as mentioned before works a treat!

Posted

Your LBS are a bunch of sadists...

 

Heating as mentioned before works a treat!

Read Lou Zealand's post. Not a great idea considering we now know it's an Alu post in a steel frame. Different expansion rates will make things worse not better.

 

OP perhaps use the coke method but leave it overnight as suggested by Dirtypot.

Posted

Odd question but are you using the original (exactly correct) size clamp. Niner has a specific/ unusual clamp size and perhaps a slightly smaller clamp has been opened up & fitted on to the frame. This could have clamped the frame (closing the slot in the frame) almost permanently so even when you undo the clamp the frame is still gripping the post.

 

Not sure if that's the case. Just thinking out the box so to speak.

 

You could try lift the clamp from the frame (up the post) and squeezing the frame slot open - maybe by turning a flat screwdriver, gently.

 

Hope that makes sense.

 

Thanks for an alternate suggestion, was on the Sheldon Brown list too.

 

I have not changed clamp but did buy the bike second hand. However since the loosen, Q20 and ride test was done the clamp is moving fairly freely around the seat post clamp area so it seems that it is probably the right size.

 

I think I will have a go with the "wiggle a flat screw driver in the slot" approach before the coke soak wait and then wrestle one.

Posted

This is definitely a job that requires patience and thought. Brute force seldom achieves anything other than to break something.

Heating can help, due to the different rates of expansion, it can help break corrosion bonds.

 

If the solvent/oil/heating/cooling doesn't work, try making a puller

 

Clamping the frame and apply a rotational force to the seatpost with (excuse the word" a bobbejaan spanner may work, but is more likely to mess things up. If you do that kind of thing use hand power only.

 

It's not too difficult to make a puller: 12mm threaded bar, slightly bent (helps hold it in place) with a nut that just fits inside the seatpost. You can get sexy and make the head eccentric but not really necessary. Insert the tool until you hear/feel it go over the lip of the seatpost. Apply shock-force in an outward direction.

 

PM me if you want to.

 

Oh, and next time grease it. Regularly :)

Posted

I used coke on a carbon frame - worked well.  Turned the frame upside down and left the coke in it for 24hrs.  Still took some wiggling and sweating, but at least it came out.

This is how you use the coke.

Posted

It's called a "pulling hammer" in my line of work.

Problem will be to connect that firmly to the seatpost so the shock effect will work - and it wont work it it is not solidly connected.
Posted

It's called a "pulling hammer" in my line of work.

 

Or Blind bearing puller.

 

Problem will be to connect that firmly to the seatpost so the shock effect will work - and it wont work it it is not solidly connected.

 

You cut the seatpost flush with the frame and insert the puller all the way to the bottom of the seatpost then expand it (this can be tricky depending on who much post is in the frame). then knock it out.

 

Done this on more than one occasion.

Posted

Once had to saw one up using a small hacksaw blade held by hand.

Took about 2 days.

I don't recommend it.

Been there done that.... ali post in ali frame. Had to cut it into 4 pieces and colapse it inside the frame.... not a pleasant weekend........
Posted

Or Blind bearing puller.

 

 

You cut the seatpost flush with the frame and insert the puller all the way to the bottom of the seatpost then expand it (this can be tricky depending on who much post is in the frame). then knock it out.

 

Done this on more than one occasion.

 

Jeez hoping that the vice + Q20 and or coke + 24 hours stew time may do the trick!

Posted

Jeez hoping that the vice + Q20 and or coke + 24 hours stew time may do the trick!

 

Lets hope. Just to clear things up these were not my bikes. I work in a LBS so we see this quite offen.

Posted

Don't have the time now to check the thread and post the URL, but suggest you search You-Tube. Have seen some very interesting articles regarding just this sort of problem and as in the movies, it always work in the end. Suggest you check it out.

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